Make the switch to salt?

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zimdogg

zimdogg

Bronze Supporter
May 24, 2022
159
Kansas City
Pool Size
12500
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm contemplating making the switch to a SWG for chlorine management. I'm updating our Hayward E-Command 4 with the OmniPL retrofit kit, and my understanding is the new automation has a SWG controller built in. Is all that's left to do is add a SWG on the return line, hook it up to my new controller, and configure correctly?

My pool is around 12k gallons. Is the 25k gallon option good enough or do I make the jump to 40k gallons to extend the life of the cell if I go this route? Is there anything else I need to consider here? Is this SWG plug and play with the Omni PL?

 
The link you posted is just a replacement cell...just to be make sure you realized?
Have you checked this site out too? - www.discountsaltpool.com/saltwater-chlorine-generator-systems-for-all-swimming-pools
Make sure to check/ask about upsizing for sales if you see on discount salt they often upsize for $10 to the next cell size. Winner Winner Chicken Dinner! :kim:

I can't answer too much else about the OmniPL....I hope someone who has that will chime in. :)

Maddie :flower:
 
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Yes, you just need to plug a Hayward cell into the Omni PL.

The 25K cell will do for you but I think you will find the 40K cell is a better value.
 
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Just look at the recommended levels guidelines TFP posts for SWG pools. There are some fundamental differences that are there to try to help mitigate pH rise. Also, you’ll want to look at your CH more carefully and I’d recommend you adjust it to the lowest recommended level to avoid scaling inside the cell. The chemistry inside the cell is different than bulk pool water so you want to be mindful of that. As for the biggest change you can expect - many people see their pH drift up faster with an SWG and so, to some extent, you’ll be trading off regular chlorine addition for regular acid additions. It’s not a 100% guarantee you’ll see greater pH rise but don’t be shocked if you do.
 
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JoyfulNoise said:
Just look at the recommended levels guidelines TFP posts for SWG pools. There are some fundamental differences that are there to try to help mitigate pH rise. Also, you’ll want to look at your CH more carefully and I’d recommend you adjust it to the lowest recommended level to avoid scaling inside the cell. The chemistry inside the cell is different than bulk pool water so you want to be mindful of that. As for the biggest change you can expect - many people see their pH drift up faster with an SWG and so, to some extent, you’ll be trading off regular chlorine addition for regular acid additions. It’s not a 100% guarantee you’ll see greater pH rise but don’t be shocked if you do.
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Can you elaborate on the bolded portion of your reply? I did look at the levels in the pool school for SWG pools, and looks similar to what I've had to track with the liquid chlorine over the past year.

Thanks for the response.
 
zimdogg said:
Can you elaborate on the bolded portion of your reply? I did look at the levels in the pool school for SWG pools, and looks similar to what I've had to track with the liquid chlorine over the past year.

Thanks for the response.
Click to expand...

When the SWG cell is powered on and generating chlorine, there are electrochemical reactions occurring at the anode and cathode. There is chlorine gas generated which is what you want but there is also hydrogen gas generated (that just bubbles out the return) and there is hydroxide ion (OH-) generated. So inside the cell the pH of the water near the electrodes can easily climb to well over 10.5 or more. This is why calcium will scale inside of an SWG cell and not in the rest of the pool - the pH and aeration is high enough to cause the precipitation of calcium carbonate. So it’s important to realize that and make sure that you are not only managing your CSI value properly but that you are keeping the CH in check. The lower the CH, the less likely you’ll see scaling inside the cell. People also use borates in their pool to help act as a high pH buffer which, inside the cell, helps a lot. But that’s not necessary for converting to an SWG. Just make sure you are following the recommended chemical levels and you should be fine.
 
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zimdogg said:
Can you elaborate on the bolded portion of your reply? I did look at the levels in the pool school for SWG pools, and looks similar to what I've had to track with the liquid chlorine over the past year.

Thanks for the response.
Click to expand...
From TA - Further Reading

Usually a TA on the high end is fine if the pH is stable. However TA does need to be adjusted down with an SWG. The problem is, INSIDE the cell, the CSI is very different than in bulk pool water.

With high TA and aeration from the bubbles the SWG creates, you'll get faster pH rise inside the cell and so there's more potential for scaling. With current reversal, the cell tends to stay clean but you'll get more snowflakes out of the returns. Calcium hardness is only one part of the equation.

If the SWG cell pH rises much above 10 (and it can easily do that) and if there is sufficient levels of carbonate ions available (CO3--), then you will get calcium carbonate precipitation. The higher the TA and pH, the more carbonate anions are available.

Borates are particularly helpful preventing scale in a SWG because the pKa for boric acid / borate anion buffering is approximately 9. That essentially means you get the maximum buffering capacity at a pH of 9 and that tends to hold down the pH rise inside the cell. Keeping the pH below 10 in the SWG cell reduces the risk of calcium and ma
 
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ajw22 said:
Yes, you just need to plug a Hayward cell into the Omni PL.

The 25K cell will do for you but I think you will find the 40K cell is a better value.
Click to expand...
BTW, In addition to the chlorinator cell, a plumbing kit (P-KIT) must be purchased. This kit contains the cell unions and flow switch.
 
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The weather feels like spring today so I went out to inspect my system and current components.

Looks like I already have a transformer (which I assume is high voltage) right below the control panel. Plan is to switch that out also to use a new 12v light system. The light cord then goes through conduit and into the ground through a pvc looking tube.

20230304_141734.jpg

20230304_141730.jpg


Now looking at the return side (lower left side of heater) I'll probably need to route things differently with the limited space and extra space I'm going to need for the SWG.

It's also looking like I'll need to replace that 3 way valve since it seems to be directly attached to a coupler. Same with that other black piece off the heater with the window on top. Is that a check valve? Any suggestions on routing of the new plumbing?

20230304_141721.jpg


Lastly, help me understand how having salt in the pool isn't going to cause things like a heater start to rust and corrode? Salt water comes in and chlorine goes out, right?

Here's a couple more pictures of the whole setup.



20230304_141716.jpg

20230304_141743.jpg
 
zimdogg said:
The weather feels like spring today so I went out to inspect my system and current components.

Looks like I already have a transformer (which I assume is high voltage) right below the control panel. Plan is to switch that out also to use a new 12v light system. The light cord then goes through conduit and into the ground through a pvc looking tube.
Click to expand...

You only have a transformer when the light is 12V.

zimdogg said:
Now looking at the return side (lower left side of heater) I'll probably need to route things differently with the limited space and extra space I'm going to need for the SWG.

It's also looking like I'll need to replace that 3 way valve since it seems to be directly attached to a coupler. Same with that other black piece off the heater with the window on top. Is that a check valve?
Click to expand...

Yes, that is a check valve.

zimdogg said:
Any suggestions on routing of the new plumbing?
Click to expand...

Go left with a horizontal run or go vertical or some combo of the two. You have plenty of room on the left side of the heater output. But don't crowd the heater and leave room to remove the heater panels and work on the heater.
zimdogg said:
Lastly, help me understand how having salt in the pool isn't going to cause things like a heater start to rust and corrode? Salt water comes in and chlorine goes out, right?
Click to expand...

The SWG cell is after the heater output.

"Salt water" in a pool is not very salty.

What parts in your Heat Pump do you think will rust and corrode from contact with the water? The heat exchanger is copper or titanium and the rest is PVC.
 
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ajw22 said:
You only have a transformer when the light is 12V.



Yes, that is a check valve.



Go left with a horizontal run or go vertical or some combo of the two. You have plenty of room on the left side of the heater output. But don't crowd the heater and leave room to remove the heater panels and work on the heater.


The SWG cell is after the heater output.

"Salt water" in a pool is not very salty.

What parts in your Heat Pump do you think will rust and corrode from contact with the water? The heat exchanger is copper or titanium and the rest is PVC.
Click to expand...
That's good news then on the transformer. I am correct on my assumption that what I'm referring to is a transformer?

Edit - answered my own question. Popped it open and does appear to be a 120 to 12v transformer. Sweet!20230304_171206.jpg

20230304_171226.jpg
 
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pjt said:
If you're ambitious, I would add a bypass to your HP. It also looks like the pump input/output pipe is much smaller diameter than all your other plumbing.
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I didn't really notice that but I'll definitely check. I am ambitious if I'm cutting anyway. What's the purpose?
 
zimdogg said:
I didn't really notice that but I'll definitely check. I am ambitious if I'm cutting anyway. What's the purpose?
Click to expand...

Check your Aquacal HP Installation Manual. It probably gives a maximum flow limitation of 70 GPM. Your pump May be able to push more than that.

This will all flow above about 70GPM...

External_Bypass_Front-e1570126635328-scaled.jpg


Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
zimdogg said:
What's the purpose?
Click to expand...
With the bypass open, the water isn't being forced thru your HP so your system works more efficiently. If you ever needed to remove your HP for servicing, etc., you could completely open the bypass, physically remove the HP, and your system would still function.
 
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