Chlorine is disappearing!

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Alas @Mdragger88 , yep that would be convenient if those settings were on, however that was my first port of call way back in Nov 22 and have checked numerous times since. Those settings aren't on. But y'know what, its worthwhile checking again for the nth time - doesn't hurt.
Appreciate you going to the trouble of actually looking up my unit! Nice work!

mgtfp said:
The cell that got replaced on warranty, had that recently replaced an older SWG? Could it be that you now simply have a smaller capacity cell than you used to have before?
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The new SWG looked brand spanking new, same model, same cell size (visually), same software/operations. Basically exactly the same as what was before only new.
 
Youfah Mizzum said:
The new SWG looked brand spanking new, same model, same cell size (visually), same software/operations. Basically exactly the same as what was before only new.
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I meant if the cell that got replaced was also quite new. Or was that cell already in use for a couple of years before the warranty replacement?

Do the over night chlorine gain test as I have described so we see how much that cell actually produces. Maybe there is something wrong with the controller rather than the cell. Maybe that cover feature is permanently stuck on on. Best to quantify the actual output.
 
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Youfah Mizzum said:
Not 1.7. 0.17! Ten times lower!
I am well aware that it's low - that's the whole reason for this thread. I just can't work out why.
My chlorinator was replaced by the manufacturer (or their rep) 4 days ago in case it was faulty. I have sun protection - not only with my CYA (see levels previously posted, about 45) but I also have a pool cover.
It's running at 95% (waaaaay higher than it should need to be) for 11 hours split between day & night.

I guess my next step as you say is to do a OCLT. I'll turn off my nighttime timer for the chlorinator and I'll raise the chlorine around dusk to 5 to 7 ppm and test as soon as I wake the next morning. BUT, my CC is already < 0.5.
Maybe there is hidden algae? It's a simple rectangle pool, no odd nooks or crannies for algae to hide.
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As a SWG owner, I use the SWG to maintain the FC level, not to raise it if something is going on. Whenever my SWG isn't "keeping up" (usually as I'm tuning it in in the spring time, and I haven't been as diligent as I need to be) I add LC to raise it up to just above the recommended range on the FC/CYA chart, and dial up the SWG That does the trick for me, and I've never had to do a formal SLAM.(Knock wood.)
 
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Youfah Mizzum said:
Not because I have it beat & have my answer - more because it's got me beat and baffled.
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I get the fustration, but If the worst that happens is you have a SWG that produces enough FC in about half a day, you're still sitting pretty. Maybe 1 or 2 plates on the new cell are factory duds, maybe the cell had a polarity issue and only produces half the time. But when all's said and done, it's still almost 2X what you need per day.
 
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Post 74 referred to testing for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates at a fish store. Maybe once to see if there is any, but, be skeptical of those tests for the same reason we are skeptical for pool store testing. Nothing like taking ownership of your own chemistry. But, stay away from test strips for same reason as here. Anyway, if you are interested in ongoing ammonia/nitro testing, one popular brand is API, who makes a master test kit for all three plus pH, which you won’t need. You might compare the cost of each test kit, or the master test kit. Their site (apifishcare.com) indicates availability in the US, UK, Canada, and Australia. If not in your local store, available at Amazon.
 
Youfah Mizzum said:
Bugger. Night test 4.5. Morning test 1.5.
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That's one way of looking at it.

On the other hand, it explains the SWG not keeping up with FC loss if you are on the brink of an algae bloom. The SWG has been likely keeping it from going full blown swamp. (Visible).

SLAM Process

Then we revisit the SWG production and maybe it performs as expected after. (y)
 
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Sad news but it’s something that’s fixable.
During the
SLAM Process
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, etc.) if you use a cover be sure to clean that too.
It’s hiding somewhere…..
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
 
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Yep, that'll explain it...

Guess there's nothing to be added to above course of action.

Once that's under control we can have another look at the SWG output, but I reckon it will turn out OK.
 
Righto. Been quiet on this thread for a while so time for an update.
I SLAMmed over the past 5 days. Did OCLT each night.
Two nights ago it passed the OCLT but I thought, what the heck lets go another day and give this a real kick in the bum!
So passed another OCLT last night.

Will let chlorine drift down to normal levels and see how we go,
Appreciate everyone's help!
 
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Youfah Mizzum said:
Two nights ago it passed the OCLT but I thought, what the heck lets go another day and give this a real kick in the bum!
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SMART. It's always easy to hold SLAM an extra day, once the FC holds. It it not easy to start over if you pulled the plug too early.

WELL done. Keep us posted. :)
 
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Did you check all the possible hiding places, nooks, & crannies? Find any offenders? Some weird unused/abandoned pipe or anything like that?
 
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Good work. I'd suggest to do the OCGT straight away while your chlorine is still a little higher than normal and you know there is no algae interfering. Once you know the actual chlorine output of your SWG, it should be easy to dial it properly in.

I'd also suggest trying to approach your target range by turning the SWG back but not completely off. While your SWG is off, it has to be considered a "normal" pool. Once you drop below the liquid chlorine target FC with the SWG off for longer periods, you give surviving algae a chance to spring back into action.
 
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Youfah Mizzum said:
Had already done that a few weeks ago when I did the SLAM.
Nevertheless I repeated the effort anyway. Everything scrubbed. Its just a basic rectangle and skimmer box so not much to scrub.
I also added the BioKlenz recommend by @Ahhsomeguy .


I plan on doing a very gradual approach. Before this whole saga began, my summer SWG setting was about 40% at 8 or 9 hours, split between night and day, so 5 hours daytime, and 3 or 4 hours at night.
Now that I am tapering off the SLAM, I will keep it at 13 hours, (8 hours day, 5 night) at 70%
Keep that about 5 days.
Then 13 hours, 60% for around 5 days.
Then 13 hours, 50% for around 5 days.
Every 5 days I'll test the chlorine and see what kind of reduction I get from SLAM levels. Even if Ch stays high - I see it as an extension of SLAM anyway - just without the rigorous testing & fanatical scrubbing.

My aim is to see Ch around 4 to 5 ppm running the SWG about 40% for 9 hours a day.
If that can be maintained over a few weeks then I deem the effort a success.
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If you are only testing every 5 days you may find trouble with trying to keep such a low chlorine level. And trying to maintain it based on hours per day of run time for your SWG. A better approach would be to test your chlorine levels once a day and adjust the SWG based on that. The fine tuning will happen much faster as you’ll know if the chlorine is still dropping over the coarse of a day, that means your SWG isn’t producing enough chlorine (FC).

By the way, TFP generally uses the abbreviation CH for Calcium Hardness and uses FC for Free Chlorine. People might get confused with it switched.
 
aussieta said:
what is your cya level
and is that still dropping
4-5 fc seems dangerously low to me
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what she said yes GIF by TipsyElves.com
 
Bperry said:
TFP generally uses the abbreviation CH for Calcium Hardness and uses FC for Free Chlorine
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Yeah, that's why I wrote the "h" in lower case - to distinguish from calcium hardness which has "h" in upper case.

And to @aussieta , @Mdragger88 et al who mention chlorine is too low around 4 -5, if I maintain CYA around the 50 to 60 mark - then that's within the ballpark of range. Since when did normal range become too low?
Why do I maintain CYA around 50? Because, as mentioned previously, I just can't maintain CYA at 70. In the 2.5 years I have had the pool I think I only ever hit 70 once. I'd be constantly throwing in more CYA to keep it at 70 and I'm just not made of money! I find 50 maintainable & still exceeds levels spouted by mainstream pool experts. But I digress - this thread is about finding why I can't keep my SWG at previous levels. Or why/where my chlorine is getting consumed.
But if consensus says 5ppm of chlorine is too low, happy to keep it around 7 to 10 - so long as my SWG can keep it there.
 
Youfah Mizzum said:
But if consensus says 5ppm of chlorine is too low, happy to keep it around 7 to 10 - so long as my SWG can keep it there.
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Your SWG wasn't able to maintain the 5ppm, which led to algae. The closer you wish to run to minimum FC, the closer you need to monitor the pool. Until you trust it, make sure to test at the lowest FC part of the day. Otherwise, you test a 5 and think it's fine but then lose 3.

I wish people obsessed over using/making enough FC the way they obsess over trying to always use as little as possible.

Youfah Mizzum said:
I find 50 maintainable & still exceeds levels spouted by mainstream pool experts.
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Mainstream experts don't recognize the CYA/FC relationship. They don't recognize that your SWG produces small amounts of FC which needs to be protected from the UV from the sun. Otherwise, it burns off as fast, or faster than it can be produced.

They treat the SWG like it adds 4 ppm a day, just like liquid chlorine. Which it does, but in an entirely different way which needs its own parameters.
 
Youfah Mizzum said:
Which would be late in the day?
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Possibly. It's tricky with the 2 run times. Normally the low point would be just before it turns on for X hours. Check it at several intervals to find it at its lowest point. Or. prove it's maintained across the board.
 
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Youfah - how are you going with your chlorine loss? I have had what sounds like the exact same problem. I did two complete slam processes in a row and now once again I am having big chlorine loss!!! As with you, the pool is crystal clear. For 3-4 years had no trouble, chlorinator set on 40%. Last summer issues started. As with you had cell replaced. But this summer issues came back once again.

I am now about to start what is a third slam within a period of 4 weeks. So I’m very keen to see how you have gone!
 

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