Omnilogic reading high salt level with Tcell-940

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a3po911

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Aug 2, 2018
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My pool is just 2 weeks old, salt was added 1 weeks ago; I have Omnilogic with T cell-940 for SWG, the Omnilogic is displaying salt level for around 4500-4800, both instant salt and average salt are at his arange, then I tested water samples at mutiple local pool supply stores, the results are around 3000-3600.
Firmware has been upgraded to 4.41 which should be the newest, the cell type was set for T-cell 15(940) which is the only match option that Omnilogic system provided.

I would appreciate it if anyone would help .

Thank you
 

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An Aquarite SWCG does not measure salinity. It measures the amps which it correlates to a salinity.

As you see on your screen, the amps are very near the high limit, which is 8 amps. Operating in this range will likely damage the control board for the SWCG.

One issue is if the pool water temperature is near or above 90F. This will show high amps.

Read Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
 
Thanks for quick response, I took that picture this afternoon about 3:30pm, hot weather at California, the water temperature might at 81F-83F.
Attached pict was shot just now.
 

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I suspect you need to lower the salinity of the water. The Aquarite SWCG should have a real pool water salinity of about 3000 ppm.
You need your own salinity test. Taylor K1766
 
I've tested salinity of water at Leslie pool supply twice, one is 3090, it should be in range, the reason that cell working with high amp may be just because the wrong Omnilogic salt reading, it's always around 4400-4800, if I drain out more water , the actual salt level will below range.

One more funny thing, when the pump running, I plug out the cell cable then plug in after couple seconds, the Omnilogic salt reading will display correct number 3120 for 2-3 seconds, also the cell amp drops to 6.21A, then it changes to 4400 and 7.48A immediately.

I also replaced with another cell GLX-CELL-15-W this morning, it appeared same reading, I think it might not a cell problem, maybe the problem is from Omnilogic MSP board .

Just ordered K-1766 from Amazon as suggested, but I think the test result won't have too much difference than Leslie's, because they're using a professional test machine to get water tested.

Thank you
 

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Check the amperage by clamping around the two red or the two black wires coming from the rectifiers going to the board.

What is the pool volume and how much salt was added?

What was the salinity before adding salt?

Most likely, the Omnilogic is correct and the store is incorrect.
 
JamesW said:
Check the amperage by clamping around the two red or the two black wires coming from the rectifiers going to the board.

What is the pool volume and how much salt was added?

What was the salinity before adding salt?

Most likely, the Omnilogic is correct and the store is incorrect.
Click to expand...
I didn't test salinity before adding salt because it's an new pool, the valume is about 36000 gal, I ordered 24 bags of pool salt, 40lb each, added 22 bags, left 2 bag for adjusting later.
 
I might expect that cell (a new one) to read about 200ppm high, but not 1000+ ppm high. The amps are indicating that the water is more conductive. That is most likely salt.
You should have tested your water before adding salt. Even if it is a new pool / fresh fill. My local fill water starts with 250ppm salt.

Also, where are you getting your gallonage? From the builder? It really needs to be based off of measurements to see if that's in the ballpark. Unfortunately, "planned" size versus "built" size can vary quite a bit.

What kind of pool? If it's fiberglass, then you should be able to trust the volume and add salt at this point.

If it's new plaster, most plaster folks want you to go a month before adding salt (and some even say liquid chlorine b/c of the salt, but I think it's more that pucks allow easier control of the new plaster pH rise if a typical acid start is done).

But what's done is done. Get a K-1766 and re-check that salt.
 
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JamesW said:
What are the dimensions?

Brush the pool really well to ensure that the salt is well mixed in.

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I measured dimensions by myself, used online tools to get volume, also calculated salt disage by using Hayward's chat, even if the fresh water has 300ppm salt, but it should not has 1000 ppm difference, I think the Omnilogic may measuring TDS, not an actual salt number, there's another guy here may have likely situation, not sure if he had this issue solved.

Hayward Omnilogic with T940 salt cell and Taylor K-1766

The displayed value for Instant and/or Average Salt shown on the Omnilogic Chlorinator Diagnostics screen is always about 400 ppm high when compared to the Taylor K-1766 drop test. Does the Omnilogic actually display a TDS value and not a true NaCl salt value? Also, for salt readings: Is...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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I suspect that the volume is probably closer to 30,000 gallons and 880 lbs added to 30,000 gallons is a 3,500 ppm increase.

If the starting salinity is 300 ppm, then the result is about 3,800 ppm.

Brush well and see what the K-1766 says.

In any case, go by the box and keep the amps below 7.0 amps.
 
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JamesW said:
I suspect that the volume is probably closer to 30,000 gallons and 880 lbs added to 30,000 gallons is a 3,500 ppm increase.

If the starting salinity is 300 ppm, then the result is about 3,800 ppm.

Brush well and see what the K-1766 says.

In any case, go by the box and keep the amps below 7.0 amps.
Click to expand...
I just called Hayward CS, they told me that's normal, the salt reading may high than actual number, because the T cell 940 has some special coating coated by factory inside the cell which may cause salt reading high, it may takes up to 90 days to get salt reading down to normal.
They also said high amp is fine, if there's no other issue appears, the salt reading doesn't matter. just leave like that, I got totally confused.
 
The high salt warning trips at 8 amps regardless of the actual salinity.

Maybe get a conductivity tester in addition to the K-1766 just to be extra sure.
 
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If you have a heater before the cell, you will see the cell temperature and amperage jump up a lot when the heater is on.

The 7 amps can easily go over 8.0 amps and trip the high salt warning when the heater is on.

What heater do you have?

What is the flow rate?
 
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In general when adding any chemicals which can only be decreased by draining/exchanging water it is best to slowly add the recommended amount.
Start with half and check in 24 hours, add half again and check in 24 hours. Just sneak up on the value.
Always test your own water.
 
a3po911 said:
I just called Hayward CS, they told me that's normal, the salt reading may high than actual number, because the T cell 940 has some special coating coated by factory inside the cell which may cause salt reading high, it may takes up to 90 days to get salt reading down to normal.
They also said high amp is fine, if there's no other issue appears, the salt reading doesn't matter. just leave like that, I got totally confused.
Click to expand...
I have the same problem with my omnilogic and tcell940. Did you ever figure anything out about this?
 

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