Frustrated new pool owner!

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Kathor5819

Kathor5819

Member
Jul 21, 2022
6
Richmond, VA
Pool Size
40000
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Hi all, I am a new pool owner in Richmond, VA. We moved to a new home with a beautiful salt water pool but have barely been able to use it due to troubles with the water. We have well water with high mineral content and this seems to be a large part of the issue.
Our chlorine levels were consistently zero despite having a seemingly functioning salt cell. We had been using liquid chlorine weekly earlier in the summer. Taking water samples to a local pool store showed extremely high phosphates (>4000). Treating the phosphates resulted in two weeks of a white cloudy pool which is now cloudy green for two weeks. The chlorine levels are now very high but the water remains green. We have used metal out products previously when the water turned brown (after filling with well water earlier in the summer) which did work.
I have hired a weekly maintenance service and have been taking water samples to the store weekly, yet the water remains green. We have barely used the pool all summer and I am at my wit’s end!
I hope some of you may be able to help out!
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: So let's clarify two things - iron and algae.
1. Algae - You have to remove algae first because that requires an elevated FC level. As you have seen, a high FC (or pH) can influence the iron and make the water color change or cause staining. But you have to remove algae via the SLAM Process.

2. Iron - is always challenging and varies based on the actual iron content. When you do the SLAM Process, that is a great time to use polyfill to try and capture the iron as it reacts to the chlorine. The more iron you physically remove the better.

Once you complete the SLAM and feel you have removed as much iron as possible, the you can look into a sequestrant if needed. Of course of this is accomplished by your own at-home (accurate) water testing. You cannot do any of this from a pool store or their poor testing. You must have your onw TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit.

Also see Pool Care Basics.
 
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Some motivation for you.

From brown to 😍😍. Thank you polyfil!

We filled our pool from our well. We knew the risks and knew we would have a battle when the water was 12" deep as it looked green from the metals. Our fears were confirmed when we added chlorine and the water turned brown almost immediately. Enter 5 gallon polyfil filter. It worked...
www.google.com www.google.com
 
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Hi all, I’ve gotten myself and pool into a big mess this summer. Appreciate any advice.
Background- this is a salt water pool, and we are on well water. Early in the summer we had persistent low chlorine levels, having to add chlorine constantly, as if the salt cell was not generating any chlorine.
Water test at local pool store showed normal salt levels, negligible chlorine, and phosphates >4000. It was recommended that I treat the phosphates. We used a total of 6 bottles of phosphate remover (40k gallon pool). This was four weeks ago, and the water remains incredibly cloudy. We have not been able to swim for a month now. I run the filter constantly, and have been backwashing daily.
Chlorine levels have increased since doing the treatment.
Is it normal for the cloudiness to persist this long?? Is there anything I can do to speed the process?
During this time I have had to use metal out multiple times. I have learned from reading past threads that the metal sequestrants break down to phosphates! I feel we are now in a vicious cycle.

Is there anything I can do to clear this pool up??? It is currently a very cloudy blue color.
 

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Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: So let's clarify two things - iron and algae.
1. Algae - You have to remove algae first because that requires an elevated FC level. As you have seen, a high FC (or pH) can influence the iron and make the water color change or cause staining. But you have to remove algae via the SLAM Process.

2. Iron - is always challenging and varies based on the actual iron content. When you do the SLAM Process, that is a great time to use polyfill to try and capture the iron as it reacts to the chlorine. The more iron you physically remove the better.

Once you complete the SLAM and feel you have removed as much iron as possible, the you can look into a sequestrant if needed. Of course of this is accomplished by your own at-home (accurate) water testing. You cannot do any of this from a pool store or their poor testing. You must have your onw TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit.

Also see Pool Care Basics.
Click to expand...
Thanks- I have ordered the TF-100. I wish I had found this forum earlier!
 
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Kathor5819 said:
I have ordered the TF-100.
Click to expand...
Perfect! :goodjob: Don't worry about the phosphates right now. In fact it may never be an issue at all. Certainly don't buy the PhosFree stuff at the pool store. It's weak and doesn't work well at all. We'll come back to phosphates later if needed. For now, review the links we've provided above and post a full set of your TF-100 results when you get it. We'll be happy to walk you through the steps from there.
 
@Kathor5819 Welcome to TFP!!!

While you are waiting for your kit, I would add 2 gallon of Liquid Chlorine PER DAY to your pool. I would add NOTHING else to the pool until you get your kit.

We got you. Check this out for inspiration, you too will get to add your pool to this thread --> How Clear is TFP Clear?
 
PoolStored said:
@Kathor5819 Welcome to TFP!!!

While you are waiting for your kit, I would add 2 gallon of Liquid Chlorine PER DAY to your pool. I would add NOTHING else to the pool until you get your kit.

We got you. Check this out for inspiration, you too will get to add your pool to this thread --> How Clear is TFP Clear?
Click to expand...
Thank you! Added two gallons tonight and will keep it up daily. Will post back once I have the kit. Really appreciate everyone’s input.
 
Hi everyone,
I’ve added 2 gal liquid chlorine for the past three days.
Pool still white-gray and cloudy!
Testing results froM TF-100:
pH 7.2
Chlorine 11 ppm
CC 1
CYA 35
Calcium 400 ppm
TA 170
NaCl 3400

I would appreciate any and all advice, thank you all!!
 
TF-100! Yay! So here's the plan:
1 - We will round up your CYA to 40 on the FC/CYA Levels which on the SLAM tab shows an FC SLAM level of 16. Use liquid chlorine to maintain the FC of 16 as best as you can until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
2 - You can leave the SWG off for now if you like. It is not designed to maintain such a high FC level.
3 - Follow the SLAM Process page. Inspect and brush everywhere. Leave nothing to chance.
4 - Update your signature. We still can't see your pool and equipment info. We look for it on every post.

Test the FC as often as necessary to ensure you see an FC of 16 or close to it. Of course if you leave the house for a while or go to bed it's going to fall a bit, but check when you can. You'll see a pattern eventually where the FC starts to hold better. If you have any questions let us know.
 
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Stay with the pros here, and they will get you on track to a clear pool. Haven't seen them fail yet!

Years ago I blamed every one of my pool maladies on well water, and so called pool techs here still feed folks that line, but now I know it ain't the water.
 
Oh, I almost forgot .......... while performing the SLAM, I would recommend stuffing your skimmer with polyfill. Since you have well water, the elevated FC level may cause the iron to react which in your case might be a good thing to try and filter as much out as possible.
 
Texas Splash said:
TF-100! Yay! So here's the plan:
1 - We will round up your CYA to 40 on the FC/CYA Levels which on the SLAM tab shows an FC SLAM level of 16. Use liquid chlorine to maintain the FC of 16 as best as you can until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria.
2 - You can leave the SWG off for now if you like. It is not designed to maintain such a high FC level.
3 - Follow the SLAM Process page. Inspect and brush everywhere. Leave nothing to chance.
4 - Update your signature. We still can't see your pool and equipment info. We look for it on every post.

Test the FC as often as necessary to ensure you see an FC of 16 or close to it. Of course if you leave the house for a while or go to bed it's going to fall a bit, but check when you can. You'll see a pattern eventually where the FC starts to hold better. If you have any questions let us know.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much-will work on SLAM now. Any thoughts about the calcium content and cloudiness? Or where the cloudiness is coming from?
Can you see my signature now?
 
Your calcium level is good at 400. The cloudiness may be related ot the algae and will hopefully resolve during the SLAM Process. I still don't see your signature. Your profile has some basic info listed, but that's different than your signature.

To update your signature, look at left menu (SETTINGS), then under the column SETTINS look for SIGNATURE.
 
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