New to salt generator

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jedigrover said:

You are done when:​

  • CC is 0.5 or lower;
  • You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
  • And the water is clear.
When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.

So you need to keep going until the water is clear.

When testing, have you been doing the 10mL sample or 25mL sample? You only need to do the 10mL sample.
Click to expand...
I’m doing the 10 ml sample.
 
Can you see the bottom of the deep end?


You can go ahead and use 10 mL sample for 0.5 ppm accuracy. It will save you reagents and is close enough for us until your final OCLT

If we think we are getting to the point it just needs to filter "a little better you could also add DE to your sand filter to allow it to filter the fines better: Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter


I actually use a cellulose fiber DE replacement and find it works well: https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Guard-23793BPG-Cellulose-Replaces/dp/B00D3J3G4W
 
Last edited:
tim5055 said:
Can you see the bottom of the deep end?


You can go ahead and use 10 mL sample for 0.5 ppm accuracy. It will save you reagents and is close enough for us until your final OCLT

If we think we are gettign to the point it just needs to filter "a littel better you could also add DE to your sand filter to allow it to filter the fines better: Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter


I actually use a cellulose fiber DE replacment and find it works well: Pro Guard 23793BPG Cellulose Fiber
Click to expand...
Do I need to run filter 24 hrs a day?
 
Your last reported CYA was 80, correct?
If so, your SLAM Process FC level is 31, not 24.
Not using the correct FC level for the SLAM will make it take longer.
See the FC/CYA Levels

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers)and test kit info.
This assits us in providing help based on your pool without having to ask you each time.
 
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Smith2646 said:
Do I need to run filter 24 hrs a day?
Click to expand...
That is up to you. It may take a little longer to get totally clear if not 24/7, but not weeks longer.
proavia said:
Your last reported CYA was 80, correct?
If so, your SLAM Process FC level is 31, not 24.
Not using the correct FC level for the SLAM will make it take longer.
See the FC/CYA Levels

Fill out your signature with pool, pool equipment (including manufacturers and model numbers)and test kit info.
This assits us in providing help based on your pool without having to ask you each time.
Click to expand...
Good catch, don't know how I missed it!

Lets bring the FC up to 31 from this point on and see if this starts clearing quicker.
 
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tim5055 said:
That is up to you. It may take a little longer to get totally clear if not 24/7, but not weeks longer.

Good catch, don't know how I missed it!

Lets bring the FC up to 31 from this point on and see if this starts clearing quicker.
Click to expand...
I just checked FC and CYA. FC is still at 24, CC between 0-.5, and CYA measured around 60. I’holding tube at waist level, filling to line then looking quickly. Here’s the new deep end view. Just short of the deep end. E357E0D6-A304-42B4-B0C7-F386C23C7ABA.jpeg
 
That's still pretty cloudy.
Your CYA technique is correct.

I may have missed it, what kind of filter do you have?
It would help to list your equipment in your signature.
 
If the dot disappears anywhere between 60 & 70 you call it 70 & chlorinate accordingly FC/CYA Levels always round up if it looks in between.
Keep at it! The oclt is a good sign but you’re not there yet. Don’t let your foot off the gas! Filter, filter, filter! Brush & or vac daily. This breaks up the biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine.
Scrub any nooks & crannies! Light niches etc.
You can try to take a pic in the same spot each day with a pole in the water or at the ladder to get an idea of the clarity improvement.
 

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Smith2646 said:
We have a sand filter. I don’t know what pump we have, it’s old and 3/4 hp. SWCG is XtremePower, not listed in options.
Click to expand...
Click on your username at the upper right. Click on "Signature". Type in what you have. Hit save. The thing with the pick-lists is for the little info-box to the left of posts. It's not big enough to make out everything. Put it in free-form text in the signature and it appears at the bottom of each post you make (like you can see on mine). That way, if we are replying, we can just glance at that and go "Oh he has a sand filter".

Sand filter will likely take a bit longer than cartridge or DE to clear. Just have patience and keep the chlorine up.
 
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Smith2646 said:
Pool has been pretty clear for past couple of days. Thanks everyone for your help. When can I turn on SWCG? FC has moved down to about 12ppm.
Click to expand...
If u have passed all 3 end of slam criteria
* crystal clear water w/ no visible algae
* cc’s of 0.5 or less
& passed an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Concurrently
You can end the SLAM Process
& allow your swg to maintain target fc levels for your cya. FC/CYA Levels which is 5ppm or above.
Running fc a little higher (around 7ppm) gives u a buffer against heavy bather loads & high uv days without allowing fc to go to minimum.
If u have not passed all 3 end of slam criteria- keep going.
 
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Smith2646 said:
I can see it but not crystal clear. So keep up with the liquid chlorine and increase FC again?
Click to expand...
Yes, until all three of these are true you keep up the SLAM

* crystal clear water w/ no visible algae
* cc’s of 0.5 or less
& passed an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test


You could also add DE to your sand filter to allow it to filter the fines better: Pool School - Add DE to a Sand Filter





I actually use a cellulose fiber DE replacement and find it works well: https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Guard-23793BPG-Cellulose-Replaces/dp/B00D3J3G4W

A bag like this will last you years.
 
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