Making list of pool supplies needed to set up pool and I have a question

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lastevns

lastevns

Silver Supporter
May 22, 2022
119
Riverside, CA
Pool Size
5000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello all,


I am the new owner of an Intex 18ft x 9ft x 52In Ultra XTR Rectangular Frame AGP with Krystal Clear 110-120V 1,200 gph sand filter pump. It's still sitting in its box because it arrived early from the store AND, honestly, I've been spending days (okay, a couple weeks), viewing everything I can on how to manage setup with as few problems as possible. I've been over every advice video on leveling ground, paver stones, on water maintenance, on chemicals and on watching others' mistakes. At this point, I'm like the centipede who paralyzed himself trying to figure out how he manages to move all his legs in perfect order. I've over studied it all and still feel ignorant. I'm a bit paralyzed. I know 5,000 gallons of water will cost me a fortune here in So Cal and I cannot fathom putting this up and wasting that water investment.

Here's the mistake I've made already: I counted the cost of the pool and a big investment in water when determining if I should buy it. I knew I would also have to buy a few others things like a cleaning kit and some sand for the pump. But, I confused the sand I would buy for the pump with the sand I kept reading about needing under the pool once I'd leveled the ground. Then I found I couldn't till the ground myself and ended up bringing in my gardener to do it. He also says he leveled the ground, though... I'm skeptical. The tilling and leveling cost me $200 extra dollars (not in my initial estimate). And then I learned that I will need more than the 40-50 pounds of sand for the filter, I also need like a truckload of sand to go under the pool. There's another $225 (my gardener says he knows a guy who will give him a great deal and he's doing the labor cheap). I know this is a heck of a deal. But I'm now $425 over the budget I had anticipated. And I'm not wealthy. $400 is a lot of money in one month when I didn't expect to spend it.

Now I'm estimating the other things I need. I recall doing water maintenance on an in ground pool as a kid in exchange for the right to use the pool. So I thought I'd get a little plastic testing kit with some small bottles of stuff that I drop in to test the water and determine what chemicals are needed (it's been years, I was like 9 then). Anyway, I read on your starter articles that I should invest in a kit that costs $70-$90! Yikes.

So now, once I throw in the need for rakes and a vacuum of some sort plus chemicals, I'm probably closer to $600 or $700 over my initial estimate. And that is more money than I have this month or for the next couple of months. But, I'm up against a return window at the end of this month. I'm actually wondering if I should cut my losses and just send this back to the store and try another year when I'm better equipped with the full view of costs. However, I bought this when prices were much lower than they might be later. So, I'm torn.

My question is this: could I get by in the first 2-3 months with only what is necessary (and maybe cheaper items to start)? And, if so, where can I temporarily cut corners to allow me to use the pool while I save some money to invest in better things each month? So, for example, could I buy a less expensive model of a water test kit now and invest in one of the two good models you suggest in a couple months? I know I can't cut back on chemicals. But, are there other areas where I could start cheaper and build my investment over time?

I'd really appreciate your advice. These costs are freaking me out. TIA!
 
Welcome to TFP and congrats on the new pool! It looks like you've done your research and are well on your way to a wet summer. Let all that knowledge sink in a bit and things will make sense as time goes on.
lastevns said:
I know 5,000 gallons of water will cost me a fortune here in So Cal and I cannot fathom putting this up and wasting that water investment.
Click to expand...
Have you priced out the water costs? 5,000 gallons is only about 7 HCF or Units. This is the measure your water company uses for calculating costs. In my area, I pay less than $2 per Unit even in the higher tiers. Double check rates and penalties with your water provider.
lastevns said:
My question is this: could I get by in the first 2-3 months with only what is necessary (and maybe cheaper items to start)? And, if so, where can I temporarily cut corners to allow me to use the pool while I save some money to invest in better things each month?
Click to expand...
There are places you can cut corners, but not with a test kit. Just one bout with algae will take enough chlorine to cover the cost of the kit. Then factor in potential damage to your liner and equipment. You could try to piecemeal a kit together, but costs quickly exceed that of the TF-100 kit. Make the investment in the kit to fend off future costs. The TF-100 kit is the best value.

Once your pool is up and running, TFP's methods are the most economical way to care for your pool. Avoid the urge to buy high dollar magic potions and snake oil from the pool stores.

Best wishes!
 
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Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Okay... gotta say, I love your name (great name for Rancho C) and your image (love the goats!). Both made laugh.
Click to expand...
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Have you priced out the water costs? 5,000 gallons is only about 7 HCF or Units. This is the measure your water company uses for calculating costs. In my area, I pay less than $2 per Unit even in the higher tiers. Double check rates and penalties with your water provider.
Click to expand...
You SO made my day, here. I live near a high school here in Riverside and the kids kick out my sprinklers about once a month all along one side of my property (I'm on a corner lot). I finally bought plenty of cameras and signs letting them know they're now being recorded -- so hopefully they will stop. It's just frustrating because I try to conserve water use inside the house yet they make it so hard outside. Anyway, because of this, I'm already a high ish water user (didn't know about tiers before but Riverside Utilities confirmed I'm in tier 2). So, I already learned from you, yay! But, they also told me that filling the whole pool will probably be less than $100 even at tier 2 (around $95). This is the BEST news I've had since buying this pool. I was first expecting it might cost me $300 and then, given everything is costing more than I expected I thought maybe it could go to $500. These were purely imagined numbers. I'm so glad you told me to check. And it helped you're near enough (Rancho) that you could guide me with some reasonable expectations.
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
There are places you can cut corners, but not with a test kit. Just one bout with algae will take enough chlorine to cover the cost of the kit. Then factor in potential damage to your liner and equipment. You could try to piecemeal a kit together, but costs quickly exceed that of the TF-100 kit. Make the investment in the kit to fend off future costs. The TF-100 kit is the best value.
Click to expand...
Okay, so, I get it. It should be just the opposite: pay for the good test kit and cut corners (temporarily) elsewhere. Thank you for that advice. I know I will be back to ask about vacuums because the pump that comes with this pool is only 1200 gph and that won't run Intex's standard vacuum. But I will save my research and questions there for another post.
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Once your pool is up and running, TFP's methods are the most economical way to care for your pool. Avoid the urge to buy high dollar magic potions and snake oil from the pool stores.
Click to expand...
Funny you should say that. I've visited SO MANY YouTube videos and I did find ONE person who said that testing your own water was the preferred way to go over having it tested at a pool supply store. The joke was that when you went to the store with your sample, the customer service rep there would respond with your results and then add, "Yep, you only need to buy EVERYTHING on this shelf to take care of your pool." And, yeah, that makes sense. They're in business to make profit. Yet other sites say you should get your first test done at a pool store and then get strips to test your water yourself (this was Swim U). And, what I read here on your site makes more sense. So, I'm really glad I found your site. I feel like your advice is ringing more true to me... though, that's damning with faint praise, since I know almost nothing at this point.
Rancho Cost-a-Lotta said:
Best wishes!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the prompt help and encouragement. I feel better already!
 
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SecoSteve said:
You could also look on Facebook Market for some used items, like nets and vacuums. But, the test kit is something you should not skimp on.
Click to expand...
The second hand option is one I hadn't considered. Good idea. I get, now, that it's best to invest in the good test kit and cut corners elsewhere. So, thanks for the thought about used items.
SecoSteve said:
Another option would be to just wait until next year to set it up and save a few dollars for the future.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I worry that waiting to open this all up and install it later will be past my return point and I will find something major missing or damaged. Luckily I found out the water will cost me way less than expected so, I will save a few hundred compared to what I imagined water would cost here. If I can find some basics (maybe used things, like you suggest) I might be lucky enough to be swimming in our 100+ degree summer days this year. Thanks again for the suggestions!
 
lastevns said:
Yet other sites say you should get your first test done at a pool store and then get strips to test your water yourself (this was Swim U). And, what I read here on your site makes more sense.
Click to expand...

The dork in the "Swim University" videos has next to no clue what he's talking about. He also says "yeah, your free chlorine should be 1-3ppm", and doesn't even mention the CYA relationship, likely because he doesn't begin to understand it. They make money by using Amazon/InTheSwim affiliate links to sell you garbage, licensing their videos to third parties, and selling pool "care" guides, not teaching people to properly take care of pools. He regurgitates the same incorrect pool store nonsense to millions of people on the Internet, unfortunately. Some of his videos are useful (calculating volume, for example), but do not listen to him about ANYTHING having to do with adding stuff to your water.

On the other hand, no one here is trying to sell you anything. The TFP method would likely not scale commercially for three reasons:

1. TFP uses a test-at-home approach with professional-grade test kits. This keeps you OUT of the pool store, where their objective is to push products out the door.
2. TFP teaches using the most basic of chemicals, none of which are proprietary or expensive.
3. If followed properly, the TFP method eliminates the need for expensive chemicals and processes because you should never have algae blooms, metal in the water, etc.

Follow the $.
 
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lastevns said:
So now, once I throw in the need for rakes and a vacuum of some sort plus chemicals, I'm probably closer to $600 or $700 over my initial estimate. And that is more money than I have this month or for the next couple of months. But, I'm up against a return window at the end of this month. I'm actually wondering if I should cut my losses and just send this back to the store and try another year when I'm better equipped with the full view of costs. However, I bought this when prices were much lower than they might be later. So, I'm torn.
Click to expand...
You don't really need that much. stuff.
You will need to be able to vacuum your pool, so hose compatible with your pool/pump, pole and vacuum nozzle. You should expect around $45-$50 for a half decent kit. Any used in good condition for less than that is a deal.
You need a good test kit. The TF-100 is the most affordable (Full disclaimer: someone here on TFP owns the company, but I doubt they make any relevant profit on it)
You will need Liquid Chlorine on daily basis. On a 5K gallon you will need somewhere between 19-26oz. Last I checked a 1 Gal Jug of 10% LC was going by $4.80 at Walmart, but prices tend to go up as summer closes in. That is about $30/mo.
You will need Stablizer once.You will need about 2lb (33.5oz to be precise) to bring your CYA to 50ppm. You can get a 4lb bag for around $21 (it as $9 a year ago)
You may (or may not) need Muriatic Acid ($10-$12 a gallon), Baking Soda (~$0.90/lb) and Borax (~$4.00/box). Budget for them, but don't buy unless you really need.
Other than the above all you need is good weather ;)

Note on chlorine: Letting the pool go green will require a lot more chlorine to get it back to crystal clear.
 
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AK- said:
You don't really need that much. stuff.
You will need to be able to vacuum your pool, so hose compatible with your pool/pump, pole and vacuum nozzle. You should expect around $45-$50 for a half decent kit. Any used in good condition for less than that is a deal.
Click to expand...
All of this information is really useful and concise. I was trying to search for all of this information in various places. So, thank you for putting it all in one post. I saw a guy on YouTube who put together his own vacuum and lists parts for it. They weren't too expensive ~$50. He hooks it up to an inlet and then filters to waste. So, might try that or look for a reasonable used deal.
AK- said:
You need a good test kit. The TF-100 is the most affordable (Full disclaimer: someone here on TFP owns the company, but I doubt they make any relevant profit on it)
Click to expand...
I did wonder about the TF-100 company. Good to know. I am a bit confused. I see it is $83 for it but when I go to the package deal there are loads of things you can add on and that could get super expensive. I'm not certain which of the add ons I would need. Or, is it enough to buy the basic kit at $83?
AK- said:
You will need Liquid Chlorine on daily basis. On a 5K gallon you will need somewhere between 19-26oz. Last I checked a 1 Gal Jug of 10% LC was going by $4.80 at Walmart, but prices tend to go up as summer closes in. That is about $30/mo.
Click to expand...
THIS is especially useful. I see that I need about 1-3 ppm per day (I think tempered by CYA?). I'm not sure how to measure 1-3 ppm. Any ideas? (I just saw that Pool Math may tell me this - I will have to download it). Checking that my addition is correct: If a one gallon jug is $4.80 and I will need about $30 in a month, that means I would be buying about 6 gallons a month? Is that correct? Should I buy the, all at once? I read that liquid chlorine can get old and lose its efficacy. So, would it be best to buy one gallon at a time? Two? How much would be too much before I risked letting it go bad?
AK- said:
You will need Stablizer once.You will need about 2lb (33.5oz to be precise) to bring your CYA to 50ppm. You can get a 4lb bag for around $21 (it as $9 a year ago).
Click to expand...
I had heard that prices on chemicals have increased a lot.
AK- said:
You may (or may not) need Muriatic Acid ($10-$12 a gallon), Baking Soda (~$0.90/lb) and Borax (~$4.00/box). Budget for them, but don't buy unless you really need.
Click to expand...
Sounds like all of these things can probably be purchased and either delivered or picked up fairly easily. But, it's good to have a basic list.
AK- said:
Other than the above all you need is good weather ;)

Note on chlorine: Letting the pool go green will require a lot more chlorine to get it back to crystal clear.
Click to expand...
I plan to treat this pool they way I did when I had my job as a 9-year-old. If I don't show up to test the water that day and adjust chemicals, I don't get to swim. Though, I do plan to share the task with the BF if he wants to swim in it :)
 
lastevns said:
I am a bit confused. I see it is $83 for it but when I go to the package deal there are loads of things you can add on and that could get super expensive. I'm not certain which of the add ons I would need. Or, is it enough to buy the basic kit at $83?
Click to expand...
If you can afford add the SmartStir, it is really a game changer. The XL option will give you enough reagents for two season, but not required. You don't need any of the others (at least for now).
lastevns said:
THIS is especially useful. I see that I need about 1-3 ppm per day (I think tempered by CYA?). I'm not sure how to measure 1-3 ppm. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Ignore the 1-3ppm... that does not account for the CYA. You should follow this: FC/CYA Levels
lastevns said:
Checking that my addition is correct: If a one gallon jug is $4.80 and I will need about $30 in a month, that means I would be buying about 6 gallons a month? Is that correct?
Click to expand...
Yes. About 6 jugs... chlorine usage varies by a number of factor, so only time will tell the exact amount.
lastevns said:
Should I buy the, all at once? I read that liquid chlorine can get old and lose its efficacy. So, would it be best to buy one gallon at a time? Two? How much would be too much before I risked letting it go bad?
Click to expand...
No. Don't buy all at once. Always store LC jugs in a dark cold place. Chlorine degradation is accelerated by high temp and UV. Check Odyssey Manufacturing | Ultrachlor (Bulk Storage SH)
When I was using LC I avoided stocking more than 2 months of LC. You need to watch the manufacturing date too. It is in Julian Day. See: https://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2013/1063/images2/Julian_Day_Calendar.pdf
 
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dfwnoob said:
The dork in the "Swim University" videos has next to no clue what he's talking about. He also says "yeah, your free chlorine should be 1-3ppm", and doesn't even mention the CYA relationship, likely because he doesn't begin to understand it. They make money by using Amazon/InTheSwim affiliate links to sell you garbage, licensing their videos to third parties, and selling pool "care" guides, not teaching people to properly take care of pools. He regurgitates the same incorrect pool store nonsense to millions of people on the Internet, unfortunately. Some of his videos are useful (calculating volume, for example), but do not listen to him about ANYTHING having to do with adding stuff to your water.

On the other hand, no one here is trying to sell you anything. The TFP method would likely not scale commercially for three reasons:

1. TFP uses a test-at-home approach with professional-grade test kits. This keeps you OUT of the pool store, where their objective is to push products out the door.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I like TFP's approach because I can understand it. Whereas, in a store, I'm going to feel like I have to believe what I am told without necessarily understanding it.
dfwnoob said:
2. TFP teaches using the most basic of chemicals, none of which are proprietary or expensive.
3. If followed properly, the TFP method eliminates the need for expensive chemicals and processes because you should never have algae blooms, metal in the water, etc.
Click to expand...
I did see on SwimU that a hose filter was suggested to remove metals from water. I am wondering if you feel this will help with hard water. We have tremendously hard water here. We're not using well water but I know parts of Riverside use underground water aquifers and that increases deposits. So, would a filter work to lessen the amount of metals in my water? Or is that mitigated by the basic chemicals?
dfwnoob said:
Follow the $.
Click to expand...
 
lastevns said:
I did see on SwimU that a hose filter was suggested to remove metals from water. I am wondering if you feel this will help with hard water. We have tremendously hard water here. We're not using well water but I know parts of Riverside use underground water aquifers and that increases deposits. So, would a filter work to lessen the amount of metals in my water? Or is that mitigated by the basic chemicals?
Click to expand...
There are only two things that help with hard water:
1 - Water softener filter (before you fill the pool)
2 - Expensive reverse-osmosis filtration (usually an option to drain/refill for folks living in the desert). This is not available in most of the country.

Usually when someone have metals in the water is either iron from well water or copper (and other metals) added through the use of copper based chemicals (common algaecide or anything "blue".
Usually public water, as bad as it comes, doesn't have relevant metal contamination.
On both statements emphasis on usually.
 
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One more thing about Liquid Chlorine…
Pool Liquid Chlorine (some times sold as Pool Liquid Shock or Pool Chlorinating Liquid) comes in either 10% or 12.5% sodium hypochlorite.
Household Blech (see note below) comes in a variety of concentrations but the most commons are 6.25%, 7.5% and 8.25%.
Whenever you are buying/adding chlorine you need to adjust for the concentration. You can use PoolMath to help you.

Household Bleach is Ok to use as long as it is unscented, non-splashless, without any additives, non-colormax/Clorox. Sometimes it is cheaper/easier to get.
 
AK- said:
There are only two things that help with hard water:
1 - Water softener filter (before you fill the pool)
Click to expand...
I have a friend in OC who has a water softener system but it's only inside his house. Outside - on a similar AGP, he just used his hose. He has no hard water build up, so given the price of the least expensive water softening systems (like the portable one you can use on a hose which is still over $200), I think my first fill of the pool will be without softening. Fingers crossed. No way I can anticipate every problem anyway. So going to stop trying :).
AK- said:
2 - Expensive reverse-osmosis filtration (usually an option to drain/refill for folks living in the desert).
Click to expand...
Yeah, minus the terraforming of Southern California, most of it would look like a desert. This used to be a better-kept secret.
AK- said:
This is not available in most of the country.

Usually when someone have metals in the water is either iron from well water or copper (and other metals) added through the use of copper based chemicals (common algaecide or anything "blue".
Usually public water, as bad as it comes, doesn't have relevant metal contamination.
On both statements emphasis on usually.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
dfwnoob said:
The dork in the "Swim University" videos has next to no clue what he's talking about. He also says "yeah, your free chlorine should be 1-3ppm", and doesn't even mention the CYA relationship, likely because he doesn't begin to understand it. They make money by using Amazon/InTheSwim affiliate links to sell you garbage, licensing their videos to third parties, and selling pool "care" guides, not teaching people to properly take care of pools. He regurgitates the same incorrect pool store nonsense to millions of people on the Internet, unfortunately. Some of his videos are useful (calculating volume, for example), but do not listen to him about ANYTHING having to do with adding stuff to your water.

On the other hand, no one here is trying to sell you anything. The TFP method would likely not scale commercially for three reasons:

1. TFP uses a test-at-home approach with professional-grade test kits. This keeps you OUT of the pool store, where their objective is to push products out the door.
2. TFP teaches using the most basic of chemicals, none of which are proprietary or expensive.
3. If followed properly, the TFP method eliminates the need for expensive chemicals and processes because you should never have algae blooms, metal in the water, etc.

Follow the $.
Click to expand...
Just wanted to add, I LOVE this last part, the bulleted list and the, "...follow the $." I'm also relieved to find info on the basic chemicals needed and that they don't have to be expensive or proprietary.
 
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My previous pool was an Intex, and this sites help with it led me to buying a more permanent AGP when my Intex died of COVID. I wanted to mention (If I missed it mentioned I apologize) that the one aspect of set up that can't be stressed enough is to ensure that your site is level. The TFP basics articles are amazing, quick to read and easy for a newbie to understand, I know this because I understood them :) Good luck with your pool.
 
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