New pump install / plumbing implications

JonoVegas

Well-known member
Oct 6, 2018
92
Las Vegas NV
My old pump died (motor got very loud before finally seizing up). A couple of months ago I took the pump apart, cleaned it very well, replaced the impeller and some seals. Might have helped a smidge but I think the motor had just passed its useful life.

I have a new pump on order and its time to “tweak” the plumbing. My space is extremely limited and the current plumbing has the vent side of the pump literally bumping up against the filter. So now it’s time to address that.

Basically, I think my only real option is to move the filter about 10 inches away from the current pump location AND put the filter on a base of about 12” high so that my return line out of the pump heading to the heater can clear the existing pipe / valves that I don’t need to touch at this point.

Pictures attached which hopefully give some clarity to what I am talking about. Any comments / recommendations?

My objectives:
  • Get new pump installed with the least amount of PVC piping work
  • Get clearance space between pump and filter that does not exist today
  • Old pump ran great for years that I’ve owned (wasn’t my original install). So while number of 90’s or other items may not be ideal in the current setup, it certainly seemed to be working well, so not interested in doing new piping for the sake of a text book scenario.
Thanks in advance for any guidance!
Intake lines to pump.pngpool plumbing new.jpgpool plumbing.jpgReturn lines post filter.pngJono
 
If the pump is the right height and length, I would get a 2.5” heat union and heat gun that 2.5” coupler off the intake diverter valve. The 2.5” heat union will fit the same as the coupler and push that pump forward a considerable amount where it may fit straight on. I always use heat unions when installing any pump it just makes life easier down the road.
 
If the pump is the right height and length, I would get a 2.5” heat union and heat gun that 2.5” coupler off the intake diverter valve. The 2.5” heat union will fit the same as the coupler and push that pump forward a considerable amount where it may fit straight on. I always use heat unions when installing any pump it just makes life easier down the road.
Is the current 2.5" coupler you mentioned the one in the picture "intake connection? I am trying to figure out how I remove that coupler. Do I use a heat gun right where the "white" coupler connects to the valve? Concept apply heat via the heat gun and that white coupler should loosen enough for me to pull the coupler off of the valve without damaging the valve?
 

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  • Intake lines to pump.png
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  • old pump.jpg
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