My friend trying to decide chlorine pool or salt water

The whole of the K-2006 is useful. You want to get a salt test kit (Taylor 1766) as an add-on. Just stop thinking of saltwater vs. non-saltwater. It is just different ways of bringing chlorine into the pool. With SWG, you are bringing the chlorine factory to the pool.

It is chlorine pools (including SWG) vs. non-chlorine pools (Baquacil & snake-oil-ish "mineral" systems that are usually silver and copper based).
 
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So I think I've decided on the Circupool RJ-45 PLUS based on the recommendations I've read here, their 7 year (pro-rated) warranty, and its chlorine production (not to mention they honor the warranty regardless of DIY installation). I am ready to buy. Prices are the same everywhere. Any particular online vendor preferred? I can buy direct from Circupool, so maybe that is the best route.

I am going on a cruise in one week, and have family housesitting for me while we are gone. Given that its a completely different system and chemistry profile and there is a learning curve for me, should I wait until I get back to do this, or drop it in this week and get it going?

Also, I already have the Taylor K-2006 test kit. How much of this is still useful for saltwater pools? I am assuming I have a lot what I need just some extra chemicals for saltwater, or should I buy a whole new kit?
If you have amazon prime, it's best price there at $1500: Circupool RJ-45 Plus

If your pool is 15K gallons you should be able to use the RJ-30 plus instead. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that. But if so with Discountpools .com promo (upgrade for $10 to the next higher cell) it comes out to $1260 for the RJ-30 plus. Which is is best price: Circupool RJ-30 Plus

I believe Discountpools is a Circupool store front. Both located in Waller, TX.

On the kit and timing:

There's a misnomer with "salt water pools" that they're "different" than chlorine pools. This is not the case. They are practically the same. The only difference is how you are adding chlorine to the pool. Water chemistry will be the same so CYA, pH, TA, CH and resulting CSI are all still important. The only added parameter you will be testing is salt. Here is link on TPF for levels of each for SWG pool: Water Balance for SWGs

On timing, if you are leaving in a week and will be gone, I'd wait to start up the system until you come back. Once you start it up, it will take at least a few days to zero in on what % you want the SWG running at so that chlorine level stays relatively constant. Still, if you get it in time, you can install the system before you go and even mix in the whole bunch of salt you'll need to add to the pool. SWG can be installed and you don't have to use it, so just have family add chlorine to pool like normal.

Important note: Test your pools salt levels with the Taylor test before adding any salt to the pool so you know exactly how much you need to add. Usually the salt comes in 40lb bags. Add one to two less than the calculation says and test after it's all been mixed in then add the last one or two bags to bring up to appropriate salt level if needed (test again). You don't want to put too much salt in the pool as the only way to get it out is a partial drain.
 
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Does the DPD powder chlorine test work for saltwater pools? The reason I ask is my neighbor put 3 lbs of shock in his saltwater pool, and had put 3 pounds the day before, and when I added the DPD powder to his sample it did not change color at all.
 
We'd need to understand a lot more about your neighbor's pool to tell you why it's showing no chlorine. Depending on pool size, sunlight, CYA level, whether or not algae are present--3lbs could be nothing and could last less than 20 minutes. It all depends on successive reads of the full chemistry & what the conditions are in the pool.
 
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Yes, it works. Salt changes nothing in regards to that test.
Great to hear
We'd need to understand a lot more about your neighbor's pool to tell you why it's showing no chlorine. Depending on pool size, sunlight, CYA level, whether or not algae are present--3lbs could be nothing and could last less than 20 minutes. It all depends on successive reads of the full chemistry & what the conditions are in the pool.
Yes, he had several problems going on. He had an algae bloom, nothing to test his water, he was taking home advice from the local pool store, and he has plaster issues including pitting, so the plaster was harboring some black algae growth. So when I saw no color change form my DPD powder, after he had apparently added shock, I assumed it wasn't the right test. But that is a discussion for another day. I invited him to read up in TFP Pool School, told him to strongly consider a re-plastering and start with brand new water, with a new approach to maintenance with more knowledge and daily testing. He is a first time pool owner, and it all seems foreign to him. He does want to learn more and get a handle on it.
 
Great to hear

Yes, he had several problems going on. He had an algae bloom, nothing to test his water, he was taking home advice from the local pool store, and he has plaster issues including pitting, so the plaster was harboring some black algae growth. So when I saw no color change form my DPD powder, after he had apparently added shock, I assumed it wasn't the right test. But that is a discussion for another day. I invited him to read up in TFP Pool School, told him to strongly consider a re-plastering and start with brand new water, with a new approach to maintenance with more knowledge and daily testing. He is a first time pool owner, and it all seems foreign to him. He does want to learn more and get a handle on it.
I have experience with the old plaster and black algae. Got mine under control, but if I let my chlorine fall even to the minimum recommended, it's back.

My guess is he has little if any CYA. So should check that ASAP. If low, get it to 30 and do a SLAM to get rid of the green / mustard algae. After SLAM is complete, keep FC up above normal, but not to SLAM level and bring CYA to final value. Scrub black algae with stainless brush multiple times a day and make sure the FC stays up (I like it around 10ppm for this). It will take dilligence and about 2 weeks of keeping after it to make it go. Personally, once I start to make some headway and the rest of the pool chem is stable, I use some Polyquat 60 algaecide (poly is OK, it contains no copper). It really helps to do the final knock out of the black algae.
Brush & vac often. Do a deep clean of the filter again after it seems that you're clear.
Pull lights out of niches and eyeballs off of returns and scrub any signs of algae away. Pay close attention around skimmers--it likes to hide there.
If pressure side cleaner, pull it out of the pool and take everything apart and scrub all the algae off. Replace the bag. The cleaner always gets infested, though it will definitely look greenish and not black on it.

After "winning" the fight against black algae, keep FC levels elevated a couple of weeks and brush with a nylon brush daily. Monitor closely.
If that all goes well, then lower FC to the high-end of the normal range and make sure it stays there.

I am of the mindset that once you have black algae (cyanobacteria), you have it forevermore. You can get rid of the visible bits, but it has roots down into the plaster--especially on old pitted plaster--and some bit of it stays protected by its slime coat and never really goes away. It's just waiting to break out like a time bomb. You trigger the bomb if you let the FC level get too low.
 
If you have amazon prime, it's best price there at $1500: Circupool RJ-45 Plus

If your pool is 15K gallons you should be able to use the RJ-30 plus instead. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong on that. But if so with Discountpools .com promo (upgrade for $10 to the next higher cell) it comes out to $1260 for the RJ-30 plus. Which is is best price: Circupool RJ-30 Plus

I believe Discountpools is a Circupool store front. Both located in Waller, TX.

On the kit and timing:

There's a misnomer with "salt water pools" that they're "different" than chlorine pools. This is not the case. They are practically the same. The only difference is how you are adding chlorine to the pool. Water chemistry will be the same so CYA, pH, TA, CH and resulting CSI are all still important. The only added parameter you will be testing is salt. Here is link on TPF for levels of each for SWG pool: Water Balance for SWGs

On timing, if you are leaving in a week and will be gone, I'd wait to start up the system until you come back. Once you start it up, it will take at least a few days to zero in on what % you want the SWG running at so that chlorine level stays relatively constant. Still, if you get it in time, you can install the system before you go and even mix in the whole bunch of salt you'll need to add to the pool. SWG can be installed and you don't have to use it, so just have family add chlorine to pool like normal.

Important note: Test your pools salt levels with the Taylor test before adding any salt to the pool so you know exactly how much you need to add. Usually the salt comes in 40lb bags. Add one to two less than the calculation says and test after it's all been mixed in then add the last one or two bags to bring up to appropriate salt level if needed (test again). You don't want to put too much salt in the pool as the only way to get it out is a partial drain.
Well, consider my pool 16,000 gal, so I think the RJ-45 PLUS errs on the side of more ample than marginally ample, which should mean the SWG won't have to run as long, and will produce at a sufficient rate. So I went ahead and ordered it from Amazon and a Taylor salt test kit. I was thinking along the same lines as you: try to get it installed before I leave town so it is in place, and then start it up when I get back. If I wind up getting it up and running before I leave, that may be easier on my nieces who will be house and dog sitting for me. But they are both smart and in their 40's so they can handle pool chemistry either way.

Reading the SWG Water Balance article you shared, I think my chemistry will only need a bit of tweaking. Currently my water is:

Chlorine 5 ppm
ph 7.5
TA 75
CH 450
CYA 50
Borate 50

As you mentioned, its the salt content and the rate of the SWG that is new territory from me, not to mention different levels of TA, CH and CYA to get used to. Not sure I can jump into that before I leave town, but maybe I can install it. I am home for a week, then traveling out of the country for work for three weeks, so definitely want it online before that trip. Thanks for all the input.
 
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Not 100% she was a pound rescue dog (literally the best dog we have ever had). We think she may be a wire terrier mix.
We got a DNA test through Embark. We are about to test our third dog, that we adopted a couple weeks ago. It costs under $100. It's pretty cool to get some info to solve the mystery of these incredibly diverse and unique characters we call dogs.
 
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I got my SWG (Circupool RJ45 PLUS) and plan on installing it next week when I get back home from vacation. Can anyone give guidance on an install location? I am trying to decipher which is past the filter and heater. I am assuming that chlorine feeder is, and would like to install it there, but I might need a longer run of pipe. I marked up the images to clarify orientation since I shot it from different angles.
 

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