I could have sworn those were the ones I was told to buy with my TF-100 kit, I did order 1766 kit yesterday, wish I would not have wasted money on those test strips, thanks everyone for all the help (again)The test strips are nearly worthless. They are rarely accurate. Purchase a Taylor K 1766 salt test kit. It's a drop-based test that will provide you with accurate results.
Yes that makes sense and I did Read about it and that’s when I stopped. What did you think about my readings are they acceptable for now or should I work on them?R6bbie,
I just want to point out a quick tip when using the Taylor K-1766 since the test endpoint is a bit different than others. From the instructions:
As soon as the sample changes and holds the salmon color, stop.
- A white precipitate will form as R-0718 Silver Nitrate Reagent is added to the sample. Do not add enough R-0718 Silver Nitrate Reagent to give a brown color. First change from yellow to a milky salmon (brick red) is the endpoint
Make sense?
You’re so amazing thank you so much for your time it truly means a lot to me, I’m so glad I found you guys I would’ve been in a wreckYou're with the Core 35's recommended salt levels of 3000-4500 ppm, so you're good to go!
CYA is good at 60 ppm. If you have some LC around, bump FC to 4 ppm (target range) and use the SWG to maintain that level.
Use Pool Math to set SWG to generate 3 ppm daily. Select the FC tab and select SWG as sanitizer type.
Test daily to dial in runtimes or SWG percentage.