New pool owner: Tested my water with TF-100 kit. Please Help

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davivascaino

Member
Jan 5, 2021
14
Michigan
Hello everyone,

Just got my brand new pool going. 16x36 with tanning ledge, 15900 gallons, vinyl. Salt water, Pentair IC40. I am in MIchigan, temps here have been around mid 60s this week. a bit of rain today.

It was filled with fresh water from a truck Last Thursday (1 week ago). Water was initially greenish (?metals), but clear the following day.

I bought the TF-100 kit and just got in the mail. First time I am testing the water since it was filled last week. Pump works 24/7 (variable speed pump). Salt clorinator reading fine, says good salt level.

water looks perfect, 100% clear.
this is my result:

pH 8.2
total Cl 0.5
TA 240
Free Clorine 1ppm
Combine C zero
CYA : it never turned cloudy, I assume 30 is the result?

Salt 3400ppm

I did read everything regarding the pool school. Watched videos. Got the recommended test (TF100), and I am not relying on pool stores. I did my home work LOL. I just need some help.

Used the pool math app but when I add the TA, it says that I need to bring the pH down to 7.0???

Please help, I have no idea in which order to fix the issues and how to fix it.

I am doing my best to learn everything, I did all the testing correctly, just need some guidance .

thank you so much for your help!!
 
Hi! I’m not certain of the best order, though I’m sure someone else here will chime in on that - however, from what I understand, your SWG needs a little help up front - you’ll need to add liquid chlorine to reach your target FC level (based on your CYA) and then you use your SWG to “maintain”.
You need to get your CYA up by adding stabilizer in a nylon sock - hang it in front of a return to speed up the dissolving.
Get your ph down by adding muriatic acid to a pail with water and then add to the pool. Be careful with that stuff - wear protective gear.

I’m also in Michigan - where abouts are you at? I’m in the Shelby Township area.
 
Hi! Congratulations on the new pool. I am sure some real experts will chime in but the two main things I'd focus on are bringing down the pH with Muriatic Acid and increasing chlorine production to get to 3ppm, according to what the pool app says. If you never had the black dot even partially obstructed from view, you likely have less than 30 CYA so that'll need to get increased as well to help stabilize the chlorine
 
Stephs2125 said:
Hi! I’m not certain of the best order, though I’m sure someone else here will chime in on that - however, from what I understand, your SWG needs a little help up front - you’ll need to add liquid chlorine to reach your target FC level (based on your CYA) and then you use your SWG to “maintain”.
You need to get your CYA up by adding stabilizer in a nylon sock - hang it in front of a return to speed up the dissolving.
Get your ph down by adding muriatic acid to a pail with water and then add to the pool. Be careful with that stuff - wear protective gear.

I’m also in Michigan - where abouts are you at? I’m in the Shelby Township area.
Click to expand...
Do I need liquid chlorine or can I just increase the sanitizer output at the salt chlorinator?
I am in Kalamazoo
 
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davivascaino said:
Do I need liquid chlorine or can I just increase the sanitizer output at the salt chlorinator?
I am in Kalamazoo
Click to expand...
It depends on what is going on with the pool for now. Do you have any liquid chlorine you can get?

First I like to make sure you don’t have the bacteria in your pool that converts CYA to ammonia. Put 10ppm of FC with liquid chlorine in your pool, mix for 10 minutes, and test to see if it holds. Let us know!
 
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davivascaino said:
Do I need liquid chlorine or can I just increase the sanitizer output at the salt chlorinator?
I am in Kalamazoo
Click to expand...
As I understand it’s best to get the liquid chlorine. It is overly taxing on your SWG to raise your chlorine level that much while working to do it’s normal job of daily maintenance. Best to grab some gallons and get it up to a minimum level (and that level will depend on what you raise your CYA to.
There is a chart called Chlorine/CYA that will give you your targets for both numbers. Use the app to calculate how much liquid chlorine and how much stabilizer you will need to add to reach those numbers. I would personally try to get that chlorine in ASAP because right now what you have is not enough to prevent an algae problem.
 
It’s a pretty sizable pool. You will need it but for now I would prefer you to try the FC test first - see if you add 10ppm and let it mix for 10 minutes if it has any FC showing. Any brand of dry stabilizer (cyanuric acid) is fine.
 
IceShadow said:
It’s a pretty sizable pool. You will need it but for now I would prefer you to try the FC test first - see if you add 10ppm and let it mix for 10 minutes if it has any FC showing. Any brand of dry stabilizer (cyanuric acid) is fine.
Click to expand...
I am sorry, but I don't understand what you are saying

Is this the liquid chlorine? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pool-Essen...G0mVlBApdg28Owlyg8xoCOEcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

How do I add 10ppm?

When I use the app to increase free chlorine, it shows bleach but does not show liquid chlorine as an option
 

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davivascaino said:
I am sorry, but I don't understand what you are saying

Is this the liquid chlorine? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pool-Essen...G0mVlBApdg28Owlyg8xoCOEcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

How do I add 10ppm?

When I use the app to increase free chlorine, it shows bleach but does not show liquid chlorine as an option
Click to expand...
Bleach = liquid chlorine, usually 6.25% strength. Both are sodium hypochloride.

If you can find dedicated pool chlorine, it's usually 10 or even 12.5%. So it takes less for the same FC. Put the percentage into Pool Math when calculating how much to add.
 
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