Replace 19-year-old SWG or just replace the cell

al27

Well-known member
Sep 11, 2017
107
TN
We have a Mineral Springs by Bioguard Saltwater Generator at our house that was probably installed in 2003. It was working fine until last summer when our 9-year-old Hayward T-Cell 15 stopped producing chlorine. We manually dosed with liquid chlorine last year which was very expensive and annoying, so we would like to get our SWG working again. Because this SWG is 19-years old, my pool pro thinks that it would be more cost effective in the long run to just replace the whole SWG instead of just buying a new salt cell. We really can’t afford to spend $2000 on a whole new SWG right now so I’m wondering if it is really necessary to replace the whole SWG. How can we tell if the other components in the SWG are working properly if the cell isn’t producing chlorine? What parts on this older SWG could fail and would the parts cost more to replace than the cost of a new SWG? I can purchase a new Hayward T-15 salt cell for $899 but I’ve been told that a new Hayward SWG will cost around $2000 plus labor to install it. We hope to sell the house in a year or two so I might be interested in replacing the SWG with a cheaper brand, if there would be a significant cost savings.
 
Switch to bleach until you move. I sold my house with a 1 year old SWG cell and got nothing for it in the value of the house.
I realize that I wouldn't get any increased value because of the new salt cell but a new salt cell would only cost about $400 more than a years worth of chlorine at $5/gallon, according to my estimates. I can't afford to spend $2000 on a new SWG right now so I'm trying to figure out if it would be unwise to just replace the cell. How do I tell if there are any other problems with the SWG, other than the salt cell being bad? Does anyone know what parts typically go out in these Mineral Springs MS-10 units and if these parts could potentially cost more than a new unit if they failed? Right now, the display appears to be working but I can't tell if anything else is wrong with it since it isn't generating chlorine.
 
We avoid Minerals in TFP pools like the plague. Its pretty worthless for sanitation so I would just turn it off.
From what I've been told, Mineral Springs is just a rebranded Aquarite. The display panel and buttons look identical to an Aquarite and I've been told that they basically use the same parts. We don't add anything to the water except salt. If someone could tell me what typically goes wrong with Aquarite SWGs as they age, the same thing would apply to my Mineral Springs model. Six years ago, we replaced the main board and flow switch, but the other parts are probably 19 years old. Other than the main board and flow switch, are there any other expensive parts that could go wrong with these Aquarite SWGs as they age? I'm just trying to figure out if I could get by with only replacing the salt cell since I cannot afford to replace the whole SWG right now like my pool pro recommended. Since the cell is bad, is there any way to tell if there are any other problems with the other components of the SWG?
 
Per page 3 of this manual it mentions adding minerals-
Mineral Springs MS 10/11
Looks like they consider salt to be a mineral. Not sure if there’s other stuff on the weekly “renewal” thing which is probably just dichlor.

I’d take a chance on a new cell. If it doesn’t work, you may be able to return it or sell it. Or buy a full system that uses that cell?
 
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We have a Mineral Springs by Bioguard Saltwater Generator at our house that was probably installed in 2003. It was working fine until last summer when our 9-year-old Hayward T-Cell 15 stopped producing chlorine. We manually dosed with liquid chlorine last year which was very expensive and annoying, so we would like to get our SWG working again. Because this SWG is 19-years old, my pool pro thinks that it would be more cost effective in the long run to just replace the whole SWG instead of just buying a new salt cell. We really can’t afford to spend $2000 on a whole new SWG right now so I’m wondering if it is really necessary to replace the whole SWG. How can we tell if the other components in the SWG are working properly if the cell isn’t producing chlorine? What parts on this older SWG could fail and would the parts cost more to replace than the cost of a new SWG? I can purchase a new Hayward T-15 salt cell for $899 but I’ve been told that a new Hayward SWG will cost around $2000 plus labor to install it. We hope to sell the house in a year or two so I might be interested in replacing the SWG with a cheaper brand, if there would be a significant cost savings.
I just replaced my T-15 cell with one from Salt Solutions Inc. – Salt Solutions provides a proven repair option for customers with broken salt chlorinator equipment. for $495. They charge you a core charge of $60 I think, but they also send a prepaid shipping label back to you for you to send them your old T-cell and then will refund the core charge once they receive it. Mine is working perfectly as a test between the salt level in pool vs the instant salt readout on my Aquarite match perfectly, meaning cell is operating at 100% efficiency. I couldn't see pulling trigger on a brand new one for $400 more.
 
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I would just replace the cell. The Mineral Springs is just a rebranded Aquarite. There were several of those brands—my guess is they were private label deals that Goldline Controls did before Hayward bought them. I’m not directly familiar with the aquarite board, but I’ve repaired my own ProLogic board’s chlorinator circuit, so it’s probably similar. There are really only a handful of things that can go wrong (power supply, relay, com chip) and there are people that offer repair services on eBay.
 
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If you're selling the house in a year, just continue to use chlorine. I've done the math several times and the price of a new SWG cell (assuming your SWG is working properly) vs. liquid chlorine (or tabs), is just as expensive. The real benefit, IMHO, is that adding chlorine each day is a bother. And, the only reason I use liquid chlorine is to keep CYA level's low. One or two years left in the house? Check your CYA numbers. If they are low, just use tabs (also pretty easy). If the CYA is high, either use liquid chlorine or drain, then tabs. Tabs are great, but they raise CYA numbers making the chlorine ineffective. There's no reason to replace the whole system. I'd get a new pool guy while you're at it.
 
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