Okay great. Is there a place or formula that tells me how much to use? I assume I use Muriatic acid to lower the pH and then liquid chlorine to raise that level?
Cloudy & Green
- Thread starter Tracy Bev
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,504
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes, the PoolMath APPs' "Effects of Adding" can help you with that. You are correct.
Muriatic acid to lower the pH and liquid chlorine or regular bleach to increase and maintain the FC level.
Okay sorry, last question!Yes, the PoolMath APPs' "Effects of Adding" can help you with that. You are correct.
. Is there an amount of time I should wait between muriatic acid and the chlorine?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,504
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Good question. It is true that acid and chlorine should NEVER be mixed. Pool stores will tell you to wait a couple hours, but honestly that is overkill. As long as you don't add them both at the exact same time and location you are fine. If you add the acid at the return jets with the pump on high, it will disperse quite rapidly. You can then go back and add the chlorine in just a few minutes. But give it about 5-10 minutes to be safe.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,504
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
If you are ever worried about water circulation, you can also run your brush around that area a couple times as well.
Thanks a ton! I really appreciate the help
TexEdmond
Gold Supporter
- Jun 16, 2021
- 661
- Pool Size
- 25500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Don't panic! You're in good hands here. These folks (Marty, Splash, Newdude, V__25) that have replied to your thread are the same rockstars that helped me out when I showed up a few months ago needing help with a cloudy pool but fortunately no algae (see profile pic, haven't updated it now that my water's clear). I also couldn't have done it without the PoolMath app.
You're in the right place. First things first, make sure there's no algae in your pool. It's not a good idea to let algae keep a sneaky foothold while dealing with the other water chemistry issues, which will take slow and steady work over a few days. I don't want to recommend something that's not correct for your situation (plaster patches & new paint might need special curing conditions that I'm not aware of). The folks that have already replied to this thread know this stuff like the back of their hand. They are... The Pool Whisperers...
Now that you've got a good kit, it's a good idea to test and document the water you'll be using to refill the pool. I've heard some folks in the midwest have BONKERS high alkalinity, which is the root cause of pool water constantly climbing in pH. The two numbers that I will never let get out of hand again in my pool are CYA and calcium hardness, because the only way to lower their level is replacing water in the pool. That takes time and money and just generally feels wasteful to me.
You may notice some benefit in water clarity from lowering your pH down to 7.2. I plugged your pool's numbers into the calcite saturation calculator on the Pool Math app. Depending on the temperature of your water, it looks like your water is right at the upper recommended limit of saturation. This can cause scaling issues over time, but isn't as important as making sure you don't have algae. There's articles in the "Pool School" section about how to safely lower alkalinity, and once you've passed the SLAM then it'll be time to stock up on muriatic acid to get your alkalinity down. If you notice there's still some cloudiness, check to make sure your pH hasn't drifted up to 7.8-8 before worrying there might still be algae.
Head here for our recommended levels: What Are My Ideal Pool Levels? - Trouble Free Pool
Good luck and congrats on taking true ownership of your pool.
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Okay so it is clear this morning! I can see the drain in the deep end clearly. The chlorine level was down a bit to 15 this morning. I added some last night when it was 15.5 to bring it back up overninght. Should I add more for today or since it is clear should I wait?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,504
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Yes, continue with the SLAM Process until you pass all 3 criteria. You might want to review the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test page now.
Got it! I watched it and it makes sense. Thanks! I will continue. I am getting a bit closer.
TexEdmond
Gold Supporter
- Jun 16, 2021
- 661
- Pool Size
- 25500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I am still losing 1ppm overnight???? Thoughts on my issues?? Just keep dumping in chlorine?
A loss of 1FC and CCs of .5 or less passes with clear water.
Is the water TFP clear or just clear-ish ?
Is the water TFP clear or just clear-ish ?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,504
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Other than your avatar, I don't see any pics of your pool. Maybe post a couple pics from different angles so we can see not only the water but if there is anything else that may need attention.
I think it is clear but not as clear as it was when we refilled it after painting. It is white now and not blue. It really looks different, harder to tell I think. But no CCs and a loss of 1FC
There is no sun right now so but it does not seem as clear as this picture from about 6 weeks ago
- Jun 22, 2014
- 48,504
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
So all I see there is a permanently mounted ladder in the deep end right? Maybe a light in the pool too? I don't recall, is it a large light with a niche behind it?