Suggestions - like many I am a new pool owner and struggling on what to do and how to get perfectly balanced

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Shaggy2002

New member
Apr 9, 2021
3
Little Elm
Pool Size
10000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
FC - 5.8
CC - 0
PH - 7.6
Alkalinity - Currently 140 adjusted to 125 with the Taylor App Sure Treat Manual test entry
CH - 675
CYA - 45 (although pool stores say it is closer to 75. This test is super subjective on how visible or not visible that black dot should be. Currently out of the right solutions to do CYA with my Taylor Kit and using a kit with the test tube plunger style.)

When shocking my pool, it takes forever to get the chlorine levels back down. My pucks usually keep the correct chlorine in the pool but read that i should still shock every couple weeks. Is that accurate? Using cal-hypo will make my calcium rise and using sodium-dichlor sounds like my CYA will rise. If my test is accurate the the pool stores is wrong, then my CYA is at an ok level at this moment.

Just looking for what you would do to get the CH down. I did use some CAL-TREAT and it brought it down a couple 100, and called the maker and they said their product is more for a DEF filter and not cartridge, but they gave me another bottle to try again.

The water itself is super clear, we just have the calcium scaling on the walls and water feature. Any pointers or keep on keeping on?
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: So let's go over a few things:
- Which test kit exactly do you have? K-2005, K-2006? Add it and all your pool info to your signature.
- Your CH is certainly high enough which is why you see some indications of scale. Use nothing but liquid chlorine or regular bleach (no Cal-hypo products). Don't worry about the FC getting a bit high, it's nowhere near too high right now. See the FC/CYA Levels for FC/CYA balancing.
- Trust your own CYA reading.
- Once your pH hits about 8.0, lower it to about 7.0-7.2 which will have a better lowering effect on TA.

Right now, focus more on the FC/CYA balancing to avoid algae and you shod do fine.
 
Shaggy2002 said:
FC - 5.8
CC - 0
PH - 7.6
Alkalinity - Currently 140 adjusted to 125 with the Taylor App Sure Treat Manual test entry
CH - 675
CYA - 45 (although pool stores say it is closer to 75. This test is super subjective on how visible or not visible that black dot should be. Currently out of the right solutions to do CYA with my Taylor Kit and using a kit with the test tube plunger style.)

When shocking my pool, it takes forever to get the chlorine levels back down. My pucks usually keep the correct chlorine in the pool but read that i should still shock every couple weeks. Is that accurate? Using cal-hypo will make my calcium rise and using sodium-dichlor sounds like my CYA will rise. If my test is accurate the the pool stores is wrong, then my CYA is at an ok level at this moment.

Just looking for what you would do to get the CH down. I did use some CAL-TREAT and it brought it down a couple 100, and called the maker and they said their product is more for a DEF filter and not cartridge, but they gave me another bottle to try again.

The water itself is super clear, we just have the calcium scaling on the walls and water feature. Any pointers or keep on keeping on?
Click to expand...
If you decide to follow the TFP method, there is no need to shock the pool. I’ve been using this method for over a year and have not had any algae or needed to “shock” it. Just don’t buy any more potions from the pool store except liquid chlorine, ie “pool shock”. I don’t know why they call it that.
 
Texas Splash said:
Welcome to TFP! :wave: So let's go over a few things:
- Which test kit exactly do you have? K-2005, K-2006? Add it and all your pool info to your signature.
- Your CH is certainly high enough which is why you see some indications of scale. Use nothing but liquid chlorine or regular bleach (no Cal-hypo products). Don't worry about the FC getting a bit high, it's nowhere near too high right now. See the FC/CYA Levels for FC/CYA balancing.
- Trust your own CYA reading.
- Once your pH hits about 8.0, lower it to about 7.0-7.2 which will have a better lowering effect on TA.

Right now, focus more on the FC/CYA balancing to avoid algae and you shod do fine.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I added it to my signature but I am using a K-2006 with the exception of CYA as I ran out of the solution.

I read that you shouldn't swim if higher than 4.0, but do see the Pool Math app say I should be between 4.0-8.0 at this time which matches the chart. At what point is chlorine too high to swim?
 
Bperry said:
If you decide to follow the TFP method, there is no need to shock the pool. I’ve been using this method for over a year and have not had any algae or needed to “shock” it. Just don’t buy any more potions from the pool store except liquid chlorine, ie “pool shock”. I don’t know why they call it that.
Click to expand...
Man I have some potions at my house right now. LMAO Phos remover, which this site tells me is a waste and some stain and scale remover to help get rid of the calcium deposits.

I need to go back and read the TFP method.
 
As long as you can see the bottom of the pool and the FC has not exceeded the SLAM FC level for your current CYA, you can swim. The link below is a great place to start.

www.troublefreepool.com

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Shaggy2002 said:
At what point is chlorine too high to swim?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum!
You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.

TFP TV
 
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