As I do the SLAM should my CC initially start to go up while the FC is killing things?
basic free chlorine question
- Thread starter geewiss
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 59,729
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
It could, but as the CC is eliminated by UV, you may never test that. I would not bother testing CC until you do the OCLT at the end of the SLAM Process
Oh ok. Just a little confusing as CC <.5 is a requirement to be done with the SLAM. So I thought I should be testing that throughout the process.
You are done when:
- CC is 0.5 or lower;
- You pass an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
- And the water is clear.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,729
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Until the water is crystal clear, with no debris build up on the pool floor, doing the CC test or OCLT is not necessary.
As long as you're still pouring in chlorine you're not there yet. When the FC loss is next to nil at the end of slam is when you'll do the CC and OCLT.
Morning 1 of SLAM. FC is exactly where it was when I want to sleep so that's a good sign. For some reason though my pool pump was off when I woke up. There is no schedule currently, so I have to figure out what is going on there.
Water is still cloudy though. What I'm reading now is that I just keep monitoring the FC levels to make sure it stays at or above SLAM levels until it clears up?
Water is still cloudy though. What I'm reading now is that I just keep monitoring the FC levels to make sure it stays at or above SLAM levels until it clears up?
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,580
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You don't really want to target above SLAM levels - you want to bring back up to SLAM levels after each test. It will dip below, but that's OK. Above SLAM levels risks damage to your finishes/equipment (though it's a small risk - still best to be safe).
If you didn't lose much FC overnight then it's likely that the algae is currently mostly dead. Your FC usage may be relatively low, limited to just what burns off to the sun each day. That's fine - keep it up there as cloudy water is an invitation to the algae to return if the FC drops too low. Your filter will now be doing most of the work. Check each day for improvement - my understanding is that DE filters should improve quickly, but you may need to clean them off / backwash fairly often as the dead algae is filtered.
Have you verified your CYA level yet after it dissolved?
If you didn't lose much FC overnight then it's likely that the algae is currently mostly dead. Your FC usage may be relatively low, limited to just what burns off to the sun each day. That's fine - keep it up there as cloudy water is an invitation to the algae to return if the FC drops too low. Your filter will now be doing most of the work. Check each day for improvement - my understanding is that DE filters should improve quickly, but you may need to clean them off / backwash fairly often as the dead algae is filtered.
Have you verified your CYA level yet after it dissolved?
Ok last night when I checked FC it was 16.2 and the water was/is super crystal clear.
I checked this morning and FC is down to 14.8 and CC is .2
I guess I'm getting close but not totally there yet? But I'll tell you one thing....this forum rocks and has my water super super super clear right now!!
CYA is dissolved and is now reading between 40-50
Thanks a bunch and I just became a supporter! I'll be telling all my friends about this forum! I can't say enough good things about the people here!
I checked this morning and FC is down to 14.8 and CC is .2
I guess I'm getting close but not totally there yet? But I'll tell you one thing....this forum rocks and has my water super super super clear right now!!
CYA is dissolved and is now reading between 40-50
Thanks a bunch and I just became a supporter! I'll be telling all my friends about this forum! I can't say enough good things about the people here!
You're really close. Don't stop early - it's far better to go an extra day or two than to have to start over.
Use a 10 mL water sample, and each drop is 0.5 FC. 0.5 level of precision is plenty, and it saves a lot of reagents.
Use a 10 mL water sample, and each drop is 0.5 FC. 0.5 level of precision is plenty, and it saves a lot of reagents.
- Jun 8, 2019
- 4,580
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If it's losing chlorine overnight then something is still eating it. Check any ladders, steps, skimmer throat/back of weir door, light niches, etc. and scrub out anything you can reach.
UPDATE:
Last night FC = 15, CC = 0
This morning FC = 15, CC = 0
Water is crystal clear thanks to all the help from this group!!!
Right now here are the other readings
CYA = 50 I'm going to add some to bring this up a bit
ALK = 60
PH = 7.2
Salt 3350 - need to get this up to 3600 per salt cell
Stil have a little work to do but of course we are on tap for a big storm
I've attached a before and after picture.
Last night FC = 15, CC = 0
This morning FC = 15, CC = 0
Water is crystal clear thanks to all the help from this group!!!
Right now here are the other readings
CYA = 50 I'm going to add some to bring this up a bit
ALK = 60
PH = 7.2
Salt 3350 - need to get this up to 3600 per salt cell
Stil have a little work to do but of course we are on tap for a big storm
I've attached a before and after picture.
Attachments
Is your salt cell working at that salt level? Salt builds up over time (added via liquid chlorine, and people) so you don't want to force it higher if the cell is happy now.
I have not turned on the SWG as of yet but I'm assuming it will work at that level. So you think I should leave the salt level where it is for now even though pentair says it should be at 3600?
We have not started swimming yet.
We have not started swimming yet.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
Yeah.. i Would fire it up and see if works fine at that level. most cells like the lower end of the range better. Besides its easier to add salt, not so easy to take it awawy.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,729
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
IC40 is good down to 2800 ppm salt (its measurement). I keep my salt level just above that. Works great.