All Resin AGP Semi-in ground Build Thread

Mdragger88 said:

Hey congrats on your new pool!
To address your concerns:
1: you will need to decide if hearing the pump/equipment will bother u when enjoying your backyard & if u plan to create a shelter or wish to use the deck to accomplish this. I personally don’t want to hear my pump & i like it being near the skimmer so i set my pool up with that in mind. This also allows me to see my skimmer throat from my deck & kitchen window which is helpful for a few reasons. I know people who have their skimmer in the deck & their equipment under/outside of it & its a pain when trying to manually hook up a vac or even empty a really full skimmer basket.
You will need to comply/ refer to your local codes for the electrical & bonding but in general article 680 of the nec is a good place to start when planning

https://www.mikeholt.com/instructor2/img/product/pdf/17UND2-1483-sample.pdf

2: I dunno what the test is that u mentioned but the Taylor k-1766 is the gold standard for salt testing for some reason its not showing as an add on to the tf-100 right now on tftestkits.net
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3: it looks like u have it planned out well! Can’t wait to see the rest of the build- keep the pics coming

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Thank you for taking the time to reply. Can you post a picture of the location of your pool equipment compare to your pool.

Thank you again!

kellyfair said:

I’m intrigued by the salt meter. I use the K-1766, would love to see how the meter stacks up against it!

I have same pool, but a 18’ round. Can’t wait to see your build!

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Thank you! Your pool came out great!

Mdragger88 said:

Never mind the mess - i’ve been doing some work before opening
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Thank you so much. It helped a lot!

Teald024 said:

Congrats on getting a new pool.
I would recommend putting the pump reasonably close to he pool. It doesn’t need to be right next to the pool, but some place close enough to not be a burden to get to it when you need to shut the pump off or change settings for some reason. You said you had a good amount of slope so I would say not totally opposite of where the stairs are so you don’t have to walk all the way around everything to get to the pump.
I would recommend not putting the pump/filter under the deck as it will be annoying to maintain the equipment that way.
I would recommend running hard PVC between the pool and equipment pad. If you’re using a trencher for electric then it makes sense to trench for the piping at the same time if you can or if you need to.

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Thank you, I will definitely do that. I just got the pool today. As much as I want to start the pool, I need to fill in these cinder blocks

Is there a specific Sand to use for the base of the pool? I noticed HD have different versions of sand

Mdragger88 said:

I ordered a dump truck of fine mason sand. You will have to figure out how many yards u need for your size pool & how many inches it calls for

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Thank you! I will be making an order tomorrow for this coming week.

Well yesterday was a slow start. I prep my ground prior to pool arrival and did not calculate the 19 IN Buttress! I spend yesterday digging and still got to dig and level more. What a pain. On top of that the compactor broke,, so I need to fix that prior to the start of my day.. Due to poor instruction, I created a game plan today for these buttress.

Update:
Building a pool SUCKS.

I ran into so much trouble and poor measurements from the instruction manual.

On Saturday, I finally put the wall up making sure no debris was in the bottom of the track. Per the pool factory I needed 2 yards of Sand; well it looked like I didn't even have half that within my pool walls. I had to go to Lowes and buy 20 bags of sand and toss them over the wall into the pool.


So after leveling the sand.... the liner install was next..

During the liner install (Uni-bead); I somehow pulled the wall off track. I had to clear the bottom of the track and re-level half the pool again. At that point I decided to just install R14 boards to make the floor feel better, less lumpy and add another inch of protection.



Liner install part 2....

Somehow during the leveling process and movement of the wall due to the wind, the sand slid into the track and raised the wall up a mm or so....just enough that the stands/support uprights could not attach to the top of the wall. The goal was to install the liner, and the uprights at the same time so the wall doesn't bent on me due to the weight of the liner. Well that was a fail due to the nature of how sand functions with path of least resistance. During the process, I was trying to force the upright to the point it pop the wall out of the track again.




So at this very moment; the pool is out of track and currently beyond frustrated.

My next and probably last plan of attack is...

I bought Beaded receivers (Currently waiting for it to arrived from amazon) It should come this Tuesday. The goal is to
1. Attach all Receivers
2. Attach all top rails.
3. Remove or cut out a portion of the foam boards I created to create space. I will remove every bottom track one at a time and clear out the sand from the track. As I install the track again, I will instantly install the supports/uprights so no SAND have any hope of going into the track to shift the wall . (I couldn't do this before since I didn't have beaded receivers)
4. I will RELEVEL the pool and pack sand under the foam AGAIN.
5. Pray and hope that I can actually install the liner or I will hire someone to deal with it.



On a side note:

I was thinking about my plumbing:

I was at work looking at my pool stuff and was trying to think ahead for my pool setup..

I bought a bunch of 1.5 inch PVC. I noticed my pool equipment is 2in. Can I do my skimmer to my pool pump 1.5 inch and from pool pump to Pre filter to filter to SWG all 2 inch and finish from SWG to return at 1.5inch? Or should I change everything to 1.5 inch or everything to 2 inch?

Teald024 said:

Certainly an eventful install.
Be sure the foam boards are butted up tight together and tape up the seams real good. You don’t want any opportunity for the liner to poke down between the seams.
Also by the looks of the pics, the wall is still up, but be extremely cautious about leaving the wall up unsupported. It’s pretty easy for the wind to get a hold of it and pull it out of the track or bend it up or send it flying. That would be bad, very bad!
As far as the plumbing goes, you can use 2” between the pump and SWG if you want to. It certainly won’t hurt anything. I would recommend putting unions everywhere so that you can remove equipment without cutting pipe. Also, valves at skimmer and return eye and pump pad in/out.
A piece of advice about the valves, I would really recommend not using the ball valves you have in the picture. They tend to freeze and lock up very quickly. Jandy valves get the gold star but expensive. I used the Hayward union/valve combo on mine.

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Thank you for the advice,

A quick question;

A piece of advice about the valves, I would really recommend not using the ball valves you have in the picture. They tend to freeze and lock up very quickly. Jandy valves get the gold star but expensive. I used the Hayward union/valve combo on mine.

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When you say freeze, do you mean get stuck due to temperature? or functionality?

Would you think this valve would work? I asked due to the fact I can get it quickly.

I been thinking about the plan of how I'm going to attack the bottom tracks again. This situation is a little different due to the insulation boards that are now in the way.

Currently my 3 options is as follow:

1. Trim a 1 foot perimeter of the boards so I can create space to move sand, the bottom track, and repack underneath the cove.





2. Literally remove/cut all my duck tape work and boards as I progress around the perimeter.






3. Work from the outside of the pool. Working from the outside will prevent me from cutting any boards from the outside, but it create a void underneath the foam cove/insulation boards near the track in which I will have to fill with soil and pea gravel (I have tons).


Ultimately what approach would you guys try or recommend?