Several Plumbing Questions

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To me those are not enough air bubbles to worry about. Perfection is not the goal.
 
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Update: I went out this morning and noticed there was zero flow to the return farthest from the equipment and less than ideal flow at the 2nd farthest. I’m thinking all the return lines are individual lines and not looped in any way. I plugged the other 3 good flow returns and had great flow to the low/no flow returns. So it doesn’t seem like an obstruction of any kind. I also backwashed and it only dropped psi by 1 from 14 to 13. I have some smaller diameter eyeballs on order so hopeful that will restore flow to the farthest returns. But I’m a little surprised because I’d think my 1 hp motor would be more than adequate with my new setup.

Are there any other troubleshooting ideas?

Many thanks,
 
Does your sand filter have an MPV? Do you have a RECIRCULATE setting on the MPV? If so try running your pool on RECIRCULATE and see what the flow out of your returns is.

Do you have a heater bypass valve? Heater Bypass - Further Reading

See if your filter or heater is restricting your return flow.
 
Yes on MPV. I put on recirculate and started getting a little flow. Odd but I was showing 10 PSI on recirculate and it’s a brand new gauge. I then bypassed the heater on recirculate and had good flow throughout all returns. PSI dropped to 5. I then put on filter with heater bypass on and had limited flow but better than the bypass off. PSI at 11.

ajw22 said:
Does your sand filter have an MPV? Do you have a RECIRCULATE setting on the MPV? If so try running your pool on RECIRCULATE and see what the flow out of your returns is.

Do you have a heater bypass valve? Heater Bypass - Further Reading

See if your filter or heater is restricting your return flow.
Click to expand...
 
Understand that lower filter PSI is better. Higher PSI indicates more restrictions in your plumbing.

If you have good flow with your heater bypassed then I would examine your heater coil for scale.

Post pics of your equipment pad, plumbing and valves.
 
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OK it’s getting dark now but I’ll post some pics tomorrow. Thank you.

ajw22 said:
Understand that lower filter PSI is better. Higher PSI indicates more restrictions in your plumbing.

If you have good flow with your heater bypassed then I would examine your heater coil for scale.

Post pics of your equipment pad, pluming and valves.
Click to expand...
 
Ok here is a pic of the pad and new plumbing. I know the flow switch is not ideally located but any changes would require more 90s and likely a more restricted flow. It is currently working as it should. SWG is also mounted at a 45. I’m assuming this is ok since they can be oriented vertically.
68E2B454-C3BD-482D-B378-2C007815669C.jpeg
 
I don't think it is best for a T-15 cell to be mounted on a 45. It will not get even water flow across the plates.

@JamesW what do you think?
 
A 45 should be fine.

I would put the hump down for best performance.

The flow switch is typically not installed vertically with the water flow going down because the flow switch could fall closed with no flow.

Vertically with flow going up or horizontally is ok.

Pointing down probably won't be a problem as long as the flow switch is in good condition because the spring in the steel keeps it open against gravity but it could become a problem if the spring in the steel loses strength.
 

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Appreciate it @ajw22 and @JamesW. I’m definitely not crazy about the flow switch location but not sure of a better approach without adding more 90s or moving the heater. I will check the heater for scale as Allen suggested.

One question about the flow switch. If it does get stuck in a flow position, what are the implications if the SWG is on the same timer as the pump?

I’m also planning to do a sand filter deep clean when the weather warms a little to potentially improve flow. I’m sure it’s never been done.

Thanks again.
 
jbird0215 said:
One question about the flow switch. If it does get stuck in a flow position, what are the implications if the SWG is on the same timer as the pump?
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There are two safety systems; the timer is one and the flow switch is the other.

Since you have two, it will probably be ok, but be alert to flow switch problems.

Maybe remove it periodically for inspection and replace it if the spring seems weak.
 
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JamesW said:
There are two safety systems; the timer is one and the flow switch is the other.

Since you have two, it will probably be ok, but be alert to flow switch problems.

Maybe remove it periodically for inspection and replace it if the spring seems weak.
Click to expand...
Super helpful thank you. I can see in diagnostics if the switch is showing flow or no flow so will definitely keep an eye out. I removed it earlier today to examine and everything appears in working order.
 
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