40K gallons coming tomorrow

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T

Thurston

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May 19, 2017
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RI
Finally getting a new liner tomorrow, can't wait! It's been a long first half of the summer without our pool.

I'm getting enough salt (1000 lb) to bring the level up to 3000, and the pool company is on the hook to provide the rest of the chemicals. I'm supposed to bring a sample in for them to test, but will also do my own testing to make sure they give me the right amount of everything.

Since I'm doing this from scratch, is there anything to be aware of? I plan to follow the directions here for balancing a SWG pool:Water Balance for SWGs - Trouble Free Pool
 
That will work.

I assume you have a proper test kit to monitor your water chemistry.
 
Based on my recent experience in starting up a new SWG pool, I would suggest adding the salt gradually and keeping the SWG turned off and using liquid chlorine until your salt levels are stable around where you want them. When I add salt to my pool it can take around a day to fully dissolve and be reflected in my measurements. You can add most of the salt that you're certain you'll need all at once, and then add the remainder gradually. 1000lbs sounds about right for a pool your size, but it would be a pain to have to do a partial drain.

Also, be careful of adding anything to the pool that isn't explicitly mentioned in this site's water chemistry info that you linked to in your post. The pool company might try to give you some weird or unnecessary things.
 
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Will you be installing it or will you hire it done?
A Hayward VS pump may fit your existing plumbing.
The Gold Standard of VS pumps is the Pentair Intelliflo.
I assume you have no automation. If so, and you wish to install yourself, check with Circupool or InyoPools for house brand VS pumps that come with better warranties for DIY install.
 
They had the parts on hand to replace the motor, gaskets etc, so I went with that option for now. They only charged me for parts.

4 truckloads of water and several hours of hose filling and the system is up and running! I added salt right off the bat and then tested. Here are my numbers:

FC= 0
CC = 0
CYA = Did not test but I assume 0
PH = 8.0 or possibly above. One drop of the acid demand and it dropped to about 7.2. Not sure how I'm supposed to read that
TA = 30
Calcium = Did not test

I have 3 lbs of CYA on hand that I plan to add to the strainer. It will only bring me up to about 9, but it's a start while I get more CYA.

I have bleach on hand and wand to drop some in so I don't get algae in the meantime. Is this wise to do or should I wait until CYA levels are up to normal (70-80)??

What should I do about the PH level, or do I wait until CYA and FC are in check?
 
One drop of the acid demand and it dropped to about 7.2. Not sure how I'm supposed to read that
Click to expand...
The TF-100 does not have the acid demand test. Recheck the kit you have and recheck your pH ........the pH of 8.0 would likely have a TA of 70 or more.

1. Calculate and dose your pool to get to CYA 30 immediately. YOu can test it in a day or so but you can also correctly assume it is in there if your dose is correct.

2. Put in enough bleach or liquid chlorine to get to 4-6 ppm.

3. The best day to do those things is today.
 

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duraleigh said:
The TF-100 does not have the acid demand test. Recheck the kit you have and recheck your pH ........the pH of 8.0 would likely have a TA of 70 or more.
Click to expand...

You're right it's a Taylor kit. I think a K-2006? Hard to tell for sure because there's a Leslie's Pool sticker on the front of the box. Anyway, I tested PH and again got dark red, in the 8.0 range. Just checked the R-0004 label and its a year past expiration...
 
It is unusual, unless chemically adjusted, to have a low TA and high pH.

Add baking soda to raise the TA to 60 ppm. Use your test kit values.
 
Still trying to understand my PH and TA levels. I've noticed air bubbles in some of the return jets and am going to look for a suction side leak this morning. Could this be whats putting my PH level out of whack?
 

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