New member with Green film/scum at waterline of a Master Spa

Spatisfaction

Member
Jun 30, 2020
8
Sarasota,Florida
Good afternoon all. First time posting to any forum of any kind, but this gunk has got me ready to say a bad word, probably many!
Great to know you guys are out there and willing to help, so thanks for that!
I don't know if the following is too much or too little info, but here goes.
Background info:
5 year old, 300 Gallon Master Spa, on the west coast of Florida, filled with well water that has gone through a whole house reverse osmosis system.

After super-cleaning, draining and refilling, (which I'm getting REALLY good at), I only need a tiny bit of PH up, a bunch of calcium hardness increaser,

(because of the softness of the RO treated water),then add 10 cups of pool salt, and then I just drop in my saltwater chlorine generator, (SmarterSpa

model made by Controlomatic), and a few hours later I'm in business with pretty perfect spa chemistry.

Yes, life is good........until about a week goes by. Then, without anyone even using the spa, very slowly, a light green tint begins at the waterline,

followed a day or two later by a thin deposit of green slime that you can actually scrape up a fingernail full by running it along the waterline a foot or

so. This stuff is sticky and nasty, almost like play-doh or clay, if you gather up enough of it. It's not much, but it's there and it's unacceptable.

So there you have it. I have pretty much given up trying to figure out where its coming from and how to get rid of it.

I can provide much more detailed info, (photos, videos, brand names of products used, types of water testing equipment used, test strips, digital

testing meters, liquid test kits used, etc, etc), but for now I'll start with some basics:

Please know that the chlorine generator, and me switching over to salt water, cannot be blamed because I have had this problem since before salt was

introduced to my spa. Actually, I only bought it because my wife, (having a very sensitive nose) has always commented that she could detect a chlorine

odor when using the spa, which is now in the past since she says she can't smell a thing now that I'm using the generator.(something good, anyway!)

As far as I know, this issue can only have 3 causes. But what do I know? There may be twenty! Those are: One: The spa water is eating away at the guts

of my spa, corroding the metals (copper?) that exist in the heating system, and the residue from that corrosion is manifesting itself as green scum.

Two: There is this junk called Bio-film, which is has been living in my spa for who knows how long, and is not being entirely removed when I drain and

clean the spa out each time. And Three: Each time I refill the spa, there is some new growth that occurs, even though I have enough chlorine and other

chemicals in order for that to NOT happen.(?)(This one I kind of doubt). However, the fact that no matter what I've done to treat, clean the filters,

scrub, flush,powerwash, let Ahh-Some sit in the spa overnight, super chlorinate and wave a magic wand before draining, the green stuff always takes

days, (sometimes a week) to come back after refilling. If the bio-film was never getting killed/totally removed from the spa during draining, wouldn't

it be noticeable after refilling and first turning on the jets? I always have perfect, crystal clear water for days after refilling.As a matter of fact, even after

the green scum at the waterline comes back, the water in the spa remains perfectly clear, (unlike a pool algae type problem where the water is tinted).

With regards to the metal corrosion(possibility #1), I called Master Spa, and they put the kibosh on that theory, saying that it "never" happens, and that

my water chemistry would have to be so screwed up that the spa would be basically unusable. I also bought some 14-way test strips, which included

a copper test pad that showed a little high, but I don't really trust those super-multi strips. I have contacted a professional local water lab which says

they will test my water sample for just copper, but that's another 55 bucks thrown at this problem. It would also mean that Master Spas lied for fun.

So, (possibility #2), it could be a matter of this "Bio-film" that I have read about. The Crud that grows in a spa and is hard to get rid of. So, I ordered

some Ahh-Some,ran several 20 minute jets and air cycles and I did get lots of foam and a lot of stuff at the waterline after each 20 minute blast. After

about the 5th cycle I drained the spa, after super chlorinating it one last time to kill any living thing (or so one would think) that could still be in there.

Refilled, same as above, but within a week I saw the dreaded green waterline begin to rear its ugly head. Drained and super-cleaned again, but this time

let Ahh-some sit in spa piping overnight, ran many cycles next morning, till NOTHING could be seen in foam when jets shut off. Drained/refilled. Guess

what........that's right, perfectly clear water, no scum for days. Figured I was in the clear, but noooooooo, the play-doh factory is open again!!

Possibility #3, the "something starts growing again" after refilling theory: This just doesn't seem right, possible, or fair. How can my pretty darn good

care of the spa chemistry allow something green to start growing after just a few days or a week? In general, when looking for spa help online, I have

been finding that the color green doesn't even come up often as a complaint. I seem to be the lucky one. (Mostly a swimming pool/algae problem).

Of course, this leads me to the usual, crybaby, why me(?) question that I'm now facing.

I will stop now and go try to figure out where I left my bottle of heroin-strength Tylenol.

Thanks for listening!
 
Well, Masters Spas did not lie. I have seen many heaters destroyed by bad chemistry with no detectable residue in the water.
Is there also a buildup in the filter? Does it have an acrid, burn-your-nosehair kind of odor?
Is your filter deteriorated or discolored?
What shade of green? A picture would help.
 
Well, Masters Spas did not lie. I have seen many heaters destroyed by bad chemistry with no detectable residue in the water.
Is there also a buildup in the filter? Does it have an acrid, burn-your-nosehair kind of odor?
Is your filter deteriorated or discolored?
What shade of green? A picture would help.
Thanks for your reply RD.
Filters are only six months old, and I keep them clean, so no smell.
I will try to post photo now. (Never done this before). Here is photo. Note: water in spa perfectly clear. Green gunk only at waterline.IMG_2322.jpeg
 
When I first fill the spa, I use
What chemicals do you use?
When I first fill the tub, I need just a little PH up, and a bunch of calcium hardness increaser. The photo shows the ones I use. Within a couple hours of refilling my tub, my chemistry is
great and my chlorine generator is making chlorine. Water clarity is never a problem, the water (when you look in the spa) is always crystal clear. Problem is the green stuff at the waterline,
otherwise, the spa is perfect.(Obviously, something isn't perfect). The green line/scum at waterline problem never happens right after refilling, but always takes days or even a week
to slowly start to return. Thanks!IMG_2333.jpeg
 
Cheap heater elements have a copper alloy underneath of a (teflon?) coating. Good elements are titanium. Most manufacturers have gone to titanium elements in new spas.
OK, so I had a sequestering agent called "metal gone" in my chemical cabinet. I used it last night. Here are some photos from this morning, 12 hours later.
As you can see, I still have the same green film on top of the water in the skimmer, green line at water line, and little green chunks floating around in
the skimmer. As usual, the water in the main area of the spa is perfectly crystal clear. This stuff is what eventually breaks down and then forms the play-doh green stuff on the water line. (How long does it usually take for a metal
sequestering agent to work)?
Thanks much RD, you're the only person that responded!IMG_2334.jpegIMG_2334.jpegIMG_2336.jpegIMG_2340.jpeg
 

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Until Matt gets here and has a better idea, What kind of shampoo do you guys use ? The ring around the tub is awfully Pert-plus colored. Or light blue fabric softener that has been broken down some. Does it suds up when certain people hop in ? When the Mrs or one of my two daughters hopped in it would get noticeable. If they kept their hair up to stay dry it would be noticeable in a different way suds wise so their suits were holding washing residue differently from my own suit. If it was just me there was no foam or suds.

My guess would be something suspended in the water and not necessarily biofilm trapped in the plumbing. (Which would eventually become trapped in the plumbing but not yet so soon after an Ahhhsome treatment).
 
Can you verify what the model number or type of heater it is (Teflon coated steel, Incoloy, or Titanium)? (you might need to remove panels to find the heater)

Can you describe your RO system you use for the whole-house? What types of filters does it use? Does it inject chemicals to pretreat the water or post-treat with minerals?

Can you post the chemistry of the fill water - pH, TA and CH (or general hardness)?

What make, model a s year of construction is the tub?
 
Until Matt gets here and has a better idea, What kind of shampoo do you guys use ? The ring around the tub is awfully Pert-plus colored. Or light blue fabric softener that has been broken down some. Does it suds up when certain people hop in ? When the Mrs or one of my two daughters hopped in it would get noticeable. If they kept their hair up to stay dry it would be noticeable in a different way suds wise so their suits were holding washing residue differently from my own suit. If it was just me there was no foam or suds.

My guess would be something suspended in the water and not necessarily biofilm trapped in the plumbing. (Which would eventually become trapped in the plumbing but not yet so soon after an Ahhhsome treatment).
Thanks Newdude!
Shampoo and any other cosmetic products have been eliminated from the equation, since it's just my wife and I, and she has stopped using the spa after being

grossed out from the slime situation.( the spa has been drained, super-cleaned and refilled with all new chemicals three times in the last month).

In an effort to pinpoint the problem, I too would rather not use it, but rather just use it as a laboratory with few variables introduced to the situation. (It may sound

crazy, but I have decided to not use the spa until the problem is fixed).
 
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Can you verify what the model number or type of heater it is (Teflon coated steel, Incoloy, or Titanium)? (you might need to remove panels to find the heater)

Can you describe your RO system you use for the whole-house? What types of filters does it use? Does it inject chemicals to pretreat the water or post-treat with minerals?

Can you post the chemistry of the fill water - pH, TA and CH (or general hardness)?

What make, model a s year of construction is the tub?
Thanks JoyfulNoise.
It is a 2015 Master Spas, Twilight series, model TS- 87.3.
300 Gallon.
I will get busy answering your questions about the RO system and the spa heater.
 
Thanks JoyfulNoise.
It is a 2015 Master Spas, Twilight series, model TS- 87.3.
300 Gallon.
I will get busy answering your questions about the RO system and the spa heater.
OK, so I removed the panel, and found a "Balboa" control box, that appears to have the heater tube built right into it. I have included two photos, one is from the

top of the control box, showing the model number of the entire thing, and the other is of the heater itself.

With regards to the RO system: The system is needed because of hard water, high total dissolved solids, and a rotten egg (sulphur smell). I have included photos of

the basic well water test from the RO system guys I used, (before any treatment was done), as well as a fancier two page well water test from National Testing Labs.

I have only a basic understanding of my particular RO setup, but I think it goes like this:

Water comes from the well and first goes through a softening tank to reduce the hard water problem. There is a tank of salt that is there to help with that stage.

Then,using a very high pressure pump, the water is blasted through a series of very thick, almost non-porous "membrane" type filters that remove the smallest

particles, but at a very slow rate. That water slowly fills up a 500 gallon storage tank, so that good water is available when we need it. Also: when the water gets to

the storage tank, it is then aerated so that the rotten egg smell goes away. In addition, dilated liquid chlorine is also added to the tank a little at a time every time a

faucet is turned on in the house. (So that nothing grows in the storage tank). Finally, the tank water goes through a large (carbon?) tank to then remove any

residual chlorine from the water we drink. (no chlorine smell, or any smell inside).

The total dissolved solids from the well are about 500 or so. The TDS out of the RO system is 15. It all works well, but for what I paid, I think the system should be

giving my wife and I backrubs whenever we use the water. LOL.

Lastly, you asked about the water I use to fill. Just a garden hose right from the RO system to the spa. I don't need any in- line filter or anything when filling, cause

my water out of the hose is supposed to be almost perfect. I have to add some chemicals, but not much.

Here are photos of the test strips I use using the water from the fill hose. (Two different types, and the one with the hardness shows very low, so I always have to

add calcium hardness increaser after I fill, but for the most part, the water out of the hose is pretty close to correct. (I think so, anyway).

Thanks so much for your time and help!

BillIMG_2354.jpegIMG_2350.jpegIMG_2352.jpegIMG_2361.jpegIMG_2361.jpegIMG_2360.jpegIMG_2357.jpegIMG_2358.jpeg
 
Do you add CYA to get to 30 ppm or do you not bother with CYA? The pool store test looked like it was very low. Do you have a minimum FC that you like to keep the hot tub at? The FC of the test is almost zero. I'm new to my own hot tub, but I try to keep the FC higher then 3. Have you tried SLAM for the hot tub?
 
Based on the heater pictures, it looks like your heater is a stainless steel body with a standard Incoloy heating element (ie, NOT titanium). A couple of things to mention -

1. Around here, TFP refers to test strips as "Guess-strips" because you might as well dip your finger in the tub water, put it up in the wind, close your eyes and randomly shout out numbers that pop into your head....it's about as accurate as those strips are. You need a high quality test kit to manage a spa, not strips. So, it's hard for anyone here to give you advice on water chemistry because no one trusts those strips. Sorry, but you need a test kit and the money you spend on one is well worth the investment in your health and safety.

2. Yes, whole house RO systems are ridiculously expensive and almost no one ever needs them. 99% of people could simply use a salt-based water softener to remove minerals or a greensand filter to remove iron and sulfur and that is fine. In your case, you said you had a rotten egg odor which is usually indicative of hydrogen sulfide. Now that may be an aspect of your well water but looking at your water report from the raw well water, you have nothing in your well water that would suggest an RO system is needed - there are no significant contaminants (lead, arsenic, etc), no mineral hardness (non-detectable calcium, minimal magnesium), and no iron. The only sulfur analysis that was done was for sulfates, but sulfates don't typically smell and are typically not harmful at the levels reported. The TDS is not bad and most of it is from the dissolved sodium and carbonate alkalinity in the water. I realize it's water under the bridge and you already sunk the money into it, but the RO system wasn't really necessary (at least not in my opinion). There are other ways to eliminate sulfur smell in water (if that is even your issue which is debatable given the water quality report). Neither here nor there I suppose....BUT, using RO water in your tub does present a problem because pure RO water can be highly corrosive to metals. I know you are treating it when you add it but those strips make it impossible to properly diagnose the water and know if you have added enough alkalinity or hardness.

My guess is this - the RO water you are adding to the tub has caused corrosion of the heater. I do not believe you have any bio-fouling of the water.

As for the play-doh like gunk, that could be metals being pulled out of the heater and reacting with any organic matter in the tub water to create a goop. Look at your filter cartridges - if you rub the rubber gasket tops of the cartridges, does it break down or rub off a little bit of the material? Does it feel rough or porous?
 
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