WannaPool DIY Pool Automation Build Thread

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No issues with WiFi connect great.
What Remote Desktop are you using? Right now I am just using putty for cmd line and WinSCP so that I can transfer files.
Very cool on the email, I should probably do that too. Notify me when the spa is turned on (freak out the wife)

The only Alexa skill I got to work to launch a flow is node-red-contrib-Alexa-home-skill
You have to create an account and list the names of the stuff you want Alexa to launch. I found another skill which I played with to have the Alexa speak back to me, but I blew it away by accident. Need to keep working on that part. I want to ask “Alexa what is the pool temperature” and get a response back. Still a work in progress.

There is a simple command to get nodered to start up on boot. Sudo systemctl enable nodered.service. I think that is what I used.

I just bought the 5 pack of DS18b20 from Amazon with a 2M cord. I think it was like $20. They work great. Now I have 4 extra, just need something I want to measure. This what I got, they come in different cord lengths now.

Diymore 5Pcs DS18B20 Length 2M Waterproof Temperature Sensor Thermistor Temperature Controller Thermometer with Probe (2M): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Diymore 5Pcs DS18B20 Length 2M Waterproof Temperature Sensor Thermistor Temperature Controller Thermometer with Probe (2M): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com

Let me know what you pick for a pressure sensor. If you find a nice one that also still has an analogue gauge on it I could be tempted. Be fun to add something to the system.

Now I need to go back to researching Stenner set ups for MA addition. Thinking about pulling the trigger on this guy.

S7G45MFH7A2SUAA - 7.5 Gallon Chemical Tank With 45MPHP22 Model Fixed Pump - 100 PSI 22 GPD 1/4 Inch - Black - Stenner

www.poolweb.com www.poolweb.com
 
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WannaPool said:
So I received my Raspberry Pi last night. Perhaps someone can help me. I am unsure of the orientation of the IDE cable to connect the hard drive. Does this look correct?

View attachment 144398

Just kidding :p
I was kicking myself because I thought I had some microSD's around, but nope- Emergency trip to Best Buy to stand outside while en employee with a mask and gloves ran inside and grabbed me one. A car trip and spending $5 more could have been avoided by Amazon Prime Next Day Delivery, but hey... I needed it RIGHT NOW.

Setup so far has been pretty straight forward. Accomplished:
1) Securely connected (mac filtered)/reserved seated to wifi. Probably will eventually just hardcode IP. Does anyone have issues with Wifi when this is in case around all the high voltage?
2) Installed remote desktop, so now I can just login from my office machine. No telnet, ftp, etc.
- One thing I've noticed is that when using windows remote login, I cannot shutdown the pi from the pi desktop interface (button doesn't work). I have to shut it down from command line
3) Node-red can now send emails and texts using gmail smtp server

I am having issues with node-red-contrib-amazon-echo. Trying port 80, which is suggested for new Amazon devices. I could not get it to work on Windows node-red (no new devices discovered by Alexa). Trying on the Pi, the user account does not have permission to listen on port 80. Exact error: "Error: listen EACCES: permission denied 0.0.0.0:80." Kind of odd that is not populating with 127.0.0.1, localhost, or the actual IP. Some google searching results in this can be fixed by running node-red as root. Which when you do, you seem to lose all your flows.... and also, there is no good reason to have to run software like this as root. I found this, Amazon Echo Hub, and made the required changes. Unfortunately, alexa is still not discovering any node-red "devices."

Waiting on an 8 relay Hat which I ordered yesterday.
Also need to figure out which temp sensors and pressure sensor to buy. I am planning on adding in PVC T's with threads for the temp sensors to both my pool and spa pump return lines.
Click to expand...
I ran into this same problem. I ran as root for awhile, the project can be moved or the homedir for node-red changed. Eventually I found setcap which let me bind to port 80 from the pi account for the node executable. I had both of those Alexa nodes stop working towards the end of last year. @Katodude’s suggestion may be the way to go. Generic Carbon Steel Alloy Variable Pump Water / Air Pressure Sensor(DC 5V) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VE9TSRC is the transducers I used for pressure. At @jonpcar’s suggestion I got a splitter so I could keep both a regular gauge and use my transducer. This is the one I ordered Anderson Metals Brass Pipe... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKKZ4U they both worked well for me last year.
 
Katodude said:
What Remote Desktop are you using? Right now I am just using putty for cmd line and WinSCP so that I can transfer files.
Click to expand...
Microsoft Remote Desktop Protocol. Can be installed while on Pi command line: sudo apt-get install xrdp
Once installed, on Windows machine click start-> type mstsc.exe and select Remote Desktop Connection

Type in your pi IP address, and adjust options (make sure clipboard is checked).
2020-06-04_17-08-07.jpg

When you connect, you fill in your pi username and password:
2020-06-04_17-10-05.jpg

...and you should now see your Pi desktop on your windows machine. You can now copy and past files between machines, etc.

To disconnect, click the X in top right in the banner next to IP address.
If you have to power down the Pi while connected remotely, you will need this for command line: sudo shutdown -h now
(You might want to stop node red first with the command "node-red-stop")
 
@cmc0619 I did a remapping of a higher port to port 80, which works and the listener starts up. But no discovery. I am starting to think my Amazon devices are on my guest network- its been awhile since I set them up. My router shows all my connections, just not if they are on guest vs non guest.... I will keep digging.
 
If anyone is interested in a step-by-step on how to setup Gmail to send mail (or texts if you have Verizon), here is a file.
(I created this last year to connect with another software package that I sell for work... I just made some modifications for Node Red).

I also have a version for configuration settings to Receive emails from gmail, and also sending mail using Office365 (haven't tested on Node-Red) if anyone needs it

*********Quick edit. I just remembered, even with "allow less secure apps" set to YES, you may get a security email to your gmail account asking if it is really you trying to connect. If so, login to your gmail account, find the security warning (it will basically be something about someone trying to connect from around your geographic location), and say it was you. Every once in awhile when I am traveling for work, and try to connect from our software product, gmail servers will recognize the app is coming in from a different IP range and flag it... even though I have the "less secure" option checked. Once I login and say it was me, the issue is resolved.
 

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WannaPool said:
@Katodude How did you mount those sensors? Drill holes and epoxy in place? Also, can you run more than one sensor on a single GPIO pin?
Click to expand...

I used a T connector and a Thermowell just in case I was going to change out the sensor. It works great and the temp is accurate. Yes, the 1 wire protocol allows you to wire multiple sensor in parallel. You only need one resistor. Again remember you cannot use GPIO4 (I cant tell you how many hours I lost learning that).
 

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Katodude said:
used a T connector and a Thermowell just in case I was going to change out the sensor.
Click to expand...
So with your link to the sensors- it is showing the stainless sensor length at 50mm. Is your thermowell also 50mm? Or will that sensor fit in the 30 mm thermowell housing? (given the extra thread length, cap, etc). My returns are only 1.5"... not big enough for a 50mm sensor-
 
socalflyer524 said:
Now you gotta dive into home assistant.
Click to expand...

Looks interesting. I am running Kodi, Plex, a DIY Security System (Blue Iris), and Alexa. Would be nice to integrate it all. Next is automation of the blinds.

In all honesty, the only thing I really need is something to ensure the smoke detectors with bad batteries will only start chirping at noon, and not 3 am, like they always do.
 
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I used a 50mm in a 2” pipe. From what I remember it went down about half way.

You know what, its Amazon, order a 50mm, and a 30mm try them both in a 1.5” T and return the other.
 
Today was spent integrating the patio cameras. It took me awhile to get it working on my PC. Next I have to get it working on Pi (which I do not think will be difficult, now that I made it over a bunch of hurdles.) While it would be nice to stream, I have not found a good solution for it. This pulls images from the two cameras every 30 seconds, unless the Update button is pushed.

Cameras.jpg
 
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Just received my temperature sensors. I ordered sensors with 2M cable length. The package received says they are 2M length.... but they are only 1M long. My first bad Amazon order ever.

I tested them out anyways, and Node Red can successfully read and graph them independently while wired up together in parallel. And I used GPIO6 (Thanks @Katodude , for saving me from an upcoming headache once I get the HAT). It took me a long time to figure out the Dang pin naming conventions, and which PHYSICAL pin to connect the signal wire to, and also what is the number I use to configure the 1-wire protocol.
 
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This is the node that I used to get alexa to say things. It not bad, the latency is a little slow for my taste. I have not spent a lot of time with it. I managed with the two different alexa nodes to be able to ask for the pool temp, but it was still cludgy.

node-red-contrib-alexa-remote2
 
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@Katodude I'll check it out. I haven't gone back to debug Alexa discovery yet. I got my 8 Relay HAT yesterday, and have been working on the relay flows. First up is the valve actuator. From what I can tell (google), I can adjust the cams in the actuator to limit the swing 90 degrees (end of travel microswitches). This will work out good. Even though I really have three possible positions (return water to spa-only, pool-only, and both), I never return to spa only. Returning to both (spillover) is normal operating mode.
 
I received my new actuator and got it set up- I needed to adjust the internal cogs so it would only swing 90 degrees. For anyone using a similar valve:
1) Adjust the cogs if you have to
2) The actuator comes with underside switch in OFF position. Don't forget to turn in ON. I used ON1.
3) Red wire is for clockwise.
4) White wire is for counter clockwise.
5) Black wire is common.

I wired transformer 24VAC(+) to Relay1 N/O, Transformer 24VAC(+) to Relay2 N/O, Relay1 Common to actuator Red Wire, Relay2 Common to Actuator White wire, and actuator black wire to transformer 24VAC(-). Fortunately, due to some kitchen remodeling, I have an available 120VAC supply wire hanging out of the wall that the diswasher is normally connected to- It came in handy today.

IMG_6140_sm.jpg

While I will not be controlling my solar actuator, I wired to a GPIO a pinball microswitch (very similar to the Hayward internal switches). I can accurately detect when the switch is engaged/disengaged. The plan is to purchase 2 of the identical Hayward microswitches, and mount them on top of the switches already in the solar actuator. I will then connect them to the Pi, so I can display solar status (HEATING/BYPASSED).

Actuators.jpg
 
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I did some digging in the wiring of my current box, and found some surprises- Everything (except the light) is 240V. I mistakenly assumed (cough cough) that only the two pumps were 240VAC.
1) Solar Control System (Goldline) - Wired directly off the 240VAC input to the pool pump mechanical timer. Always powered.
2) Salt System - 240VAC wired off the SWITCHED side of the pool pump mechanical timer (only gets power when pool pump is on)
3) Hayward Spa Heater - 240VAC wired directly across the 240V double breaker lugs for the spa pump (always powered)

I had originally planned on turning the power to the heater on and off using a relay, and using the two wire method for thermostat.... (Which is how my COMPLETED flow in node-red is). But now I am thinking about just leaving it always powered on. For some reason I don't want to be switching 240V through a relay to an electronic device... is that crazy thinking?

Anyone see any issue with the way things are CURRENTLY wired? The only breakers I have are a two doubles (one for spa pump, one for pool pump), and a single for the light. I was planning on the same for the new system
Does the heater need its own breaker, or anything else need breakers? (This box is also downstream from a 30A breaker off the main house panel).
 
You are in luck. Most SWG and heaters (I think you have the same one as me) can operate at 240 or 120. You just have to change some jumpers. The default is 240 on both. I changed both of mine (it took 10 minutes) and I turn them both on with a 120v relay and it as been working great.
 

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