I did some digging in the wiring of my current box, and found some surprises- Everything (except the light) is 240V. I mistakenly assumed (cough cough) that only the two pumps were 240VAC.
1) Solar Control System (Goldline) - Wired directly off the 240VAC input to the pool pump mechanical timer. Always powered.
2) Salt System - 240VAC wired off the SWITCHED side of the pool pump mechanical timer (only gets power when pool pump is on)
3) Hayward Spa Heater - 240VAC wired directly across the 240V double breaker lugs for the spa pump (always powered)
I had originally planned on turning the power to the heater on and off using a relay, and using the two wire method for thermostat.... (Which is how my COMPLETED flow in node-red is). But now I am thinking about just leaving it always powered on. For some reason I don't want to be switching 240V through a relay to an electronic device... is that crazy thinking?
Anyone see any issue with the way things are CURRENTLY wired? The only breakers I have are a two doubles (one for spa pump, one for pool pump), and a single for the light. I was planning on the same for the new system
Does the heater need its own breaker, or anything else need breakers? (This box is also downstream from a 30A breaker off the main house panel).
I leave my heater on and control it with the three-wire config. Not crazy at all. The other thing I found on my heater, but I suspect applies to all gas heaters is that high voltage scary 240V line that runs into the heater immediately gets introduced to a 240V -> 24V AC transformer the minute it enters the heater and that runs off to power your heater electronics and igniter. Same 24V AC that runs your actuators and other parts (eg. relay coils depending on what you chose). It's using hardly any amps at all from that 240V line. Kind of a waste. In fact, I've toyed with running my heater from the 24V I use for my actuators but haven't made the switch. But if that transformer ever dies you better believe I'm not buying another one. You can create 120V from 240V service, so if your heater transformer supports it, I don't see any problem with switching it to 120V. You'll have a lot more options for relays with it being a single pole if you do want to go the switching whole unit off route. I wouldn't say that same thing about a pump which draws more amps but 240V on a ~2amp heater draw will turn into 4amp draw on 120V. Not a big deal and your wiring will support either meager amount of current
I put a 4amp B curve breaker on my heater (per the manuals max amp usage) for completeness' sake. I just put breakers in front of all my loads because that's the way my Intermatic was setup. I'm sure there's some NEC requirement but I don't know it. I think @ajw22 is the master of the NEC codes around here. It's a good idea to do. My main breaker is back in the house, down the stairs and in the basement. It's more convenient for me to hit all my breakers and only have to avoid touching two wires than having to think about how certain wires are always hot when I'm in there wiring up a sensor or something. I will add GFCI is recommended for anything that touches water. Altech makes DIN rail compatible GFCIs in both single pole (lights) and double pole (pumps) configurations. That's what I did even though there was no GFCI on my original Intermatic. Worth checking out.
I received my new actuator and got it set up- I needed to adjust the internal cogs so it would only swing 90 degrees. For anyone using a similar valve:
1) Adjust the cogs if you have to
2) The actuator comes with underside switch in OFF position. Don't forget to turn in ON. I used ON1.
3) Red wire is for clockwise.
4) White wire is for counter clockwise.
5) Black wire is common.
I wired transformer 24VAC(+) to Relay1 N/O, Transformer 24VAC(+) to Relay2 N/O, Relay1 Common to actuator Red Wire, Relay2 Common to Actuator White wire, and actuator black wire to transformer 24VAC(-). Fortunately, due to some kitchen remodeling, I have an available 120VAC supply wire hanging out of the wall that the diswasher is normally connected to- It came in handy today.
It may not apply to you but if need your actuators to run at the same time in opposite directions, you can wire them both up to the same relay and flip the On1 on one of them and flip to On2 and they'll run reverse of each other off a single relay. That's how I have mine setup. May or may not apply to you but wanted to point that out as it'll save you a relay.