Opening numbers-SLAM needed?

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linzvirgo

linzvirgo

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Bronze Supporter
Jul 29, 2016
66
So VA
I got the results of the TF-100 kit just now and wondering if we should SLAM? SWG pool and this is after my husband added salt. Results today are as follows

FC-1.5
CC-.5 (barely turned pink)
PH-7.2
TA-30
CH-175
CYA-20

I added stabilizer with the pantyhose like i had read to do, but my husband also cleaned our pool filters the next day so I think that it may have defeated the purpose ?. Thank you!
 
Was this pool closed for the winter, or was it running all year long? How does the water look? Is it crystal clear all the way to the deep end? Do you see any cloudiness or hints of green anywhere when you brush? Those will be key indicators. Regardless, I would increase the FC to about 4-5 right away. You could boost your SWG for a while or simply add some regular bleach for that as see how the FC holds. You could also do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

linzvirgo said:
I added stabilizer with the pantyhose like i had read to do, but my husband also cleaned our pool filters the next day so I think that it may have defeated the purpose
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That may not have been a total loss. If the stabilizer completely dissolved from the pantyhose, you should be fine. Cleaning the filter is usually a problem when someone inadvertantly adds granules directly to the skimmer.

What is important though is the care of your plaster. Your pH, TA, and CH are low which makes the water corrosive to your plaster. If your water is chilly it only exhaborates that issue. I would increase the TA and pH right away. PH can be raised in three ways: borax, soda ash, and aeration. Borax is usually the best choice. Borax raises the PH and also raises the TA level just a little. If your TA level is low soda ash will raise both the PH and TA levels. TA can also be raised by adding baking soda. I would get the TA to about 60-70 and the pH to about 7.6 or so as soon as you can. Use our PoolMath tool to help.

Calcium hardness can be raised with calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate. They are available in some areas as Peladow, Dowflake, Tetra Flake, or Tetra 94, often sold as a deicer by hardware stores, and some big box stores, in colder climates. Pool stores will carry either calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate under a variety of names, including Hardness Plus, Balance Pak 300, Calcium Hardness Increaser, etc. Calcium products should be spread across the surface of the deep end of the pool.

You can also refer to our Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool page for specific levels to achieve. Let us know if you have any questions.
 
Thank you for your quick response!! Our pool was never closed this winter. Only the waterfall and water slide and it’s pump/pipes were winterized. The pool guy came yesterday to turn those back on and told us we needed new pool filters. Even though we do not have large trees in our yard, this year was extremely high pollen for our area in our pool is a daily chore this Spring to keep clean. I’ve turned on our fountains and our waterfall to aerate the pool today. I also have the stuff to increase the calcium hardness and will add that now. I will attach a couple of photos, the pool is cloudy in the deep end.
 

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What filter type do you have? Can you add that to your Signature? See mine for an example to update yours.

If cartridge filters, they should last 5+ years.
 
Gorgeous pool! Well, in the first pic I see what appeears to be some cloudiness and also perhaps some green or organic staining at the bottom correct? I'm inclined to recommend a SLAM Process process. If you've never done one, it's not the worse thing in the world, and when performed properly, it will eliminate algae. If that is staining at the bottom, it should help with that as well. A SLAM Process will have no bearing on the other items you are trying to balance other than the pH. For the SLAM, you can just leave the pH alone and use baking soda to raise the TA and caliucm for the CH. The elevated FC level will raise the pH on its own during the course of the SLAM.

In that deep end, I would give those stained areas some extra brushing while the FC level is elevated to help break through those areas.

So unless I'm not seeing the images correctly, I would SLAM. Leave the pH alone for now, go ahead and increase the TA and CH. Your CYA is a bit low, we like to see it at a 30 minimum. You can add a little more now or wait a day or two to see if the CYA creeps up a bit. Adjust your FC to 12 and maintain the SLAM level until you pass all 3 criteria.

Hope that helps get you fixed up. If you have any questions, let us know.
 
mknauss said:
What filter type do you have? Can you add that to your Signature? See mine for an example to update yours.

If cartridge filters, they should last 5+ years.
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They are cartridge filters-Pentair ccp. I know it sucks, but we had SO much pollen this year and couldn’t keep them clean. My husband took them out multiple times to clean them and the water is just not moving through the pool correctly.
 
Pollen I would suspect should wash out.

Have you soaked them in TSP? It will remove oils that can plug the filter media.

Re: How to clean a cartridge filter

Re: How to clean a cartridge filter After 7 years, I've replaced my 4 cartridges in my filter (I could have gone longer, but the straps were starting to break and I figured I had a good run with these cartridges). The replacement cartridges for my Jandy CL340 were from Unicel® and they had...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Texas Splash said:
Gorgeous pool! Well, in the first pic I see what appeears to be some cloudiness and also perhaps some green or organic staining at the bottom correct? I'm inclined to recommend a SLAM Process process. If you've never done one, it's not the worse thing in the world, and when performed properly, it will eliminate algae. If that is staining at the bottom, it should help with that as well. A SLAM Process will have no bearing on the other items you are trying to balance other than the pH. For the SLAM, you can just leave the pH alone and use baking soda to raise the TA and caliucm for the CH. The elevated FC level will raise the pH on its own during the course of the SLAM.

In that deep end, I would give those stained areas some extra brushing while the FC level is elevated to help break through those areas.

So unless I'm not seeing the images correctly, I would SLAM. Leave the pH alone for now, go ahead and increase the TA and CH. Your CYA is a bit low, we like to see it at a 30 minimum. You can add a little more now or wait a day or two to see if the CYA creeps up a bit. Adjust your FC to 12 and maintain the SLAM level until you pass all 3 criteria.

Hope that helps get you fixed up. If you have any questions, let us know.
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Thank you!!!

SLAM in process and off to the gym before I have to start brushing. Hahahahaha
 

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After a day of adding bleach to keep the FC at 12 (I think I had to add 3 times through the day including right before bed) I woke up this morning to these numbers.

FC-12
CC-0.5 (Edit - Marty - TFP Mod)
PH-7.3
TA-40
CH-175

The pool is looking so much clearer but there is still a circulation issue. I can also see areas of discoloration on the bottom of the shallow and deep end but not the tanning ledge. Hopefully this will clear. I can feel the water coming out of the Jets slowly but it looks almost stagnant. I just want to check the pressure gauge on the filter and it is at 27. I know my filters need to be cleaned again and my husband of course is out of town for work. ?
 

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linzvirgo said:
The pool is looking so much clearer but there is still a circulation issue. I can also see areas of discoloration on the bottom of the shallow and deep end but not the tanning ledge. Hopefully this will clear. I can feel the water coming out of the Jets slowly but it looks almost stagnant. I just want to check the pressure gauge on the filter and it is at 27. I know my filters need to be cleaned again and my husband of course is out of town for work. ?
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I can suggest a "cheat" (how long will he be away?) You can run on recirculate, keep adding the chlorine, but you need to beat those CC's down! Your pool will not "clear" w/o the filter, but it will let you keep on the SLAM Process
 
Is your CC really 12? Do not get that confused with TC (which we do not care about here on TFP) .

The pH test is inaccurate at a FC above 10 ppm so no need for that test at this stage.

You need to clean your filter whenever the filter pressure rises by 20% over the clean pressure. Failing to do that restricts your water flow. Be careful as the pump can be damaged if it is run with too little water flow.
 
mknauss said:
Is your CC really 12? Do not get that confused with TC (which we do not care about here on TFP) .

The pH test is inaccurate at a FC above 10 ppm so no need for that test at this stage.

You need to clean your filter whenever the filter pressure rises by 20% over the clean pressure. Failing to do that restricts your water flow. Be careful as the pump can be damaged if it is run with too little water flow.
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NO!!!! CC is .5. Oh gosh, sorry!!
 
Sorry guys, in my haste of copying my numbers down I wrote the FC for both. CC is .5. I have called my FIL to come over to help me clean the filter. Husband is out of town for 2 more days and I want it done ASAP.
 
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linzvirgo said:
Sorry guys, in my haste of copying my numbers down I wrote the FC for both. CC is .5. I have called my FIL to come over to help me clean the filter. Husband is out of town for 2 more days and I want it done ASAP.
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We just took a collective deep breath for you, lol. Glad it's "almost" all good ;)

Do you have extra clean cartridges, by chance, so you can reassemble the filter and get it started back up while you clean the dirty ones?
 
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