Please help

dd88

0
Aug 22, 2018
6
Odessa, TX
Hello,

We are almost reaching the end of our pool build. Our PB left it up to me after filling and curing with acid. He added chlorine occasionally and had the water tested by Leslie’s. After not coming around for a few days I decided to test myself. I used my TF-100 for the first time yesterday and resulted zero FC. I added liquid chlorinator as pool math calculated last night and retested this evening. (See attachment) What steps should I take?

Also, at what speed should I be continuously running?

Things to know:
Hard water in West Texas. (375 from tap)
Brusing daily
Vacuming Black sediment every 2 days
Water is Crystal clear prior to brushing.

Please help. TIA
 

Attachments

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Welcome to the forum! :handshake:

Did the pool builder or plaster company leave you a start up plan?

Your attachment is unreadable. Either get the PoolMath app (link below) and upload the data that way or just type your test data as follows
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH (fill water)
CYA (zero unless you have added some)


I suggest you read Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Trouble Free Pool School book.

You may also want to get the Pool Math app.

- - - Updated - - -

Run your pump at low speed. 1200 rpm is good starting point.
 
He did not leave me with a start up plan. The pool was filled on 8/4 and he took over start up. About a week ago he said I didn’t need to brush anymore but after reading information on here I decided to go with TFP advice. He’s been a nightmare and hard to trust.

I read the specified links and have navigated my way around the site to help this far.

Test data:

FC: 0.5

CC: 0.5
pH: 7.5
TA: 40
CH: 600 375(fill water)
CYA: 20 (possibly a bit off, I tested twice but could slight still see black dot)
 
How are you chlorinating and how do you plan to add chlorine on a daily basis?

Your CH should not be that high already. But it is what it is.

Get your CYA to 40 or 50 ppm. Once there you will no longer use any solid forms of chlorine. Liquid chlorine only.

Your TA is pretty low. I would get some baking soda and be prepared to raise it to 60 or 70. If I remember right your fill water is pretty high in TA. So evaporation may keep your TA up as you add acid to combat the pH rise from your curing plaster. Do not run your water features unless you are there to enjoy them. They will make your pH rise even quicker. Maintain your pH in the 7's. When it gets to 8, lower to 7.5.

You will need to learn about CSI - Pool School - Calcium Saturation Index (CSI))
 
I plan to follow TFP’s advice and utilize liquid chlorinator. I purchased HTH 10% and added some yesterday. Then again today as pool math calculated.

I will grab some backing soda and add tomorrow. Should I be using chlorine tabs for now?

What would make my CH so high? I asked the pool builder about the calcium hardness and he said, “well we have hard water.” He’s been more of a pain than help.

Not using water features until I have my chemicals balanced.

Thanks for the advice, I will go over this again tomorrow and post an update.
 
You could use tablets now if you like. Do you have an in-line chlorinator? Just calculate what CYA each will add and do not go over about 40 ppm CYA total.

CH might increase a touch over fill water with the initial cure of the plaster. Not much you can do about it now. Do read up on and learn about CSI.

I assume you have muriatic acid on hand.

You may eventually want to consider a SWCG for your chlorine.

I suspect your plaster is pretty dark? I hope you like a really warm pool ---
 
I do not have an in-line chlorinator at the moment, the PB "forgot" to install but will install within the next week.

Should I use a stabilizer to bring CYA up? Or what product do you recommend?

I do have muriatic acid on hand and I plan to pick up some baking soda this afternoon.

Ordering an infrared thermometer for CSI calculations.

At this time my pump is only circulating through bottom drains not skimmers per PB.

FYI: I found out he put in soda ash 4 hours after putting shocking powder on Saturday.

As far as the SWCG, when first talking to pool builders I was advised they were not recommended for the area because of the water hardness. My PB said he has had multiple issues with them so I decided no SWCG.

I added liquid chorinator last night and quickly tested with taylor's kit this am, both PH and Ch were perfect.

Pool water has been a perfect temperature (not warm) and we've been in the high 90s-100s this month.

Questions:

What product do you recommend I use to raise CYA? Stabilizer/tablets/shock powder?

Just want to confirm, should my salt and borate be "0" when calculating pool math?

Will my CH trend down as I balance the water? (I'm a bit worried about calcium deposits as the plaster is dark)

Considering I'm about 20 days post plaster, I am still seeing dark sediment brush off plaster when I brush. Is this normal?

Thank you again for your advice and patience.
 
I would recommend putting in a SWCG versus the inline puck thing. Without a SWCG you will be adding liquid chlorine every day. Be sure you are ready for that. Hard water and a SWCG can be managed. It is all about CSI.

You can use CYA powder if you like. You would then need to stop using the pucks entirely. If you use CYA powder (aka stabilizer, conditioner), add it via the sock method. Add the CYA by using what we call the sock method. Get an old sock (no holes) and put the measured amount of CYA you need. Tie the sock closed and either suspend it in front of a return (hang it from your brush pole works with something weighted on the deck) OR if it still allows flow thru the skimmer, place the sock in the skimmer. Every 15/20 minutes give the sock a squeeze to speed up the process. Please DO NOT follow the directions on the container of CYA to just pour it into the skimmer and don't just toss the sock in the pool as the CYA is acidic and can bleach/stain pool finishes.\

Be sure you know how much CYA has all ready been added so you do not overshoot 40 ppm total CYA by much.

You should have absolutely no need for soda ash, ever. Your high TA fill water precludes that. Test the pH, CH, and TA of your fill water and record it.

You can use a salt of 0 (though I know Odessa water has salt of at least 200 ppm in it) and your borates are 0 unless you add them.

Your CH will only go up. With your fill water and evaporation it will rise fairly rapidly. You must be prepared to drain and refill your pool when the CH gets high enough that the CSI can no longer be managed. I personally think your dark plaster will be a challenge to maintain in its like new state.

Do you have a water softener for your home? An option is to get softened water to the pool to use as make up water (when you have to refill due to evaporation). That will help in reducing your CH rise over time.

Lots to take in -- keep asking questions.
 
Thanks, I will look into getting the SWCG instead.

Perfect! I will use the powder in front of the return, thank you for explaining this.

Leslie's advised him to put soda ash.... smh

I do have a water softener, I will attach a hose to my sink on next refill.

Thanks again, will keep you updated.
 
As you are running your pump all the time right now, put the sock with the CYA in the skimmer. It is safer as you have dark plaster and if any CYA powder happens to sit on it there will be a stain.

- - - Updated - - -

Be sure to follow the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] for your FC. If you are targeting 40 ppm CYA with your addition, use the FC target range shown for that CYA in the non-SWCG chart.
 

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As you are running your pump all the time right now, put the sock with the CYA in the skimmer. It is safer as you have dark plaster and if any CYA powder happens to sit on it there will be a stain.

- - - Updated - - -

Be sure to follow the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA] for your FC. If you are targeting 40 ppm CYA with your addition, use the FC target range shown for that CYA in the non-SWCG chart.

Yes, pump is running all the time.

To confirm I understand correctly... put the CYA sock in the pump basket? My 2 skimmer valves are currently off and only pulling from bottom.
 
Oh, why only main drain? I would at least adjust that so you are getting some skimming action to keep leaves, etc collected.

Not the pump basket - skimmer basket.

If you do not want to use the skimmer, then hang in front of a return. Just be wary of any stray powder getting on your plaster.
 
Welcome DD88! Good to see another Texan aboard. These are good folks on here and will do a great job taking care of your questions.
As Marty noted earlier, a SWG is the way to go...in Odessa, your pool will lose quite a bit of chlorine each day in your sun exposure, especially if there is no shade covering your pool for part of the day. The SWG is the long-term economical solution (in my opinion).
 
I second the SWG. My builder talked me out of one when I had my pool built earlier this year, but after a month of following the TFP method and pouring bleach in everyday, I switch to SWG and I LOVE it! It really made my life easier.
 
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