Help! First Test

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input all of that stuff into pool math, my question is:

Do I add the stabilizer now, or let some of the FC burn off, and what do I do with my SWG? I am going to ignore the inspect cell light, it's brand new.

I added the recommended amount of salt and brushed it, and turned the SWG down to like 10% production.

The pool was covered all day. Heater is set to 80
 
You have a decent FC level, so your SWG is working. Perhaps it's just an indicator issue, or if you are low on salt it hasn't effected FC production yet. Keep an eye on the FC, and at some point you might consider increasing that CYA to 70 as recommended on the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA]. Your 1766 kit should confirm if you truly are low on salt or not.

- - - Updated - - -

You can add the stabilizer now.
 
what about that CC level? I tested right after pulling the cover off, does that make a difference?

Am I running the pump too much and that is producing higher FC? I am guessing I ignore the manual that says keep 2-3 ppm FC and 30-40 CYA and follow the chart on here for SWG (FC 5 with CYA of 70)

My pump has 4 built in settings for time, and I've used the "best" one... 6hrs on high, 18 hrs on low.

I hope I didn't over salt, I added in about 10-12 kg of salt to get me between 1500 and 1700 PPM. My manual says 1500 ideal, TFP says go 200 over that, so I kind of split the difference.

Cover off all night and tomorrow?
 
what about that CC level? I tested right after pulling the cover off, does that make a difference?
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It's very possible the CCs were a bit elevated because the cover was on preventing good oxidation.
Am I running the pump too much and that is producing higher FC?
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You've already lowered it, so now you'll have to evaluate FC production at that % rate.
Cover off all night and tomorrow?
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Not necessarily all day & night since you are not doing a SLAM. But you probably should allow just a few hours of sunlight to hit the water for oxidation purposes.
 
Thanks!

I had a panic moment last night when I finally was free to go check on the pool at 9pm and I saw flashing lights on day 2 of operating a pool and then perform my first ever real test.

I will retest tonight, and probably feel that my first TA test was one I didn't do right and maybe my CH test. I will try to get a speedstir, as I felt the swirling aspect is a key part of accuracy.

My CH seems to be getting even lower though, I read on here that over 50 is fine for vinyl, and that it doesn't matter much. Is lower than 50 reason to add calcium chloride?

How did my PH go down from my TA going up? (I am maybe closer to 90 than 100). Albeit a pool store test which may have been wrong anyway, my first test read a PH of 7.5, wouldn't you expect the PH to go up after adding the baking soda?

Went out to check this morning, SWG no longer blinking low salt and reading itself at 1600 ppm. Can't wait for a true salinity test. Is there a consequence to adding too much salt? My manual does not specify what the "high salt" threshold is. I am guessing it may be 1800 ppm as there recommended range is 1200-1800, and I was likely truly under the 1200 ppm range.
 
No problem. I don't see any major red flags at this point. Your pool should be fine with a little more salt. Your pH should eventually settle after opening. I'd just watch it periodically for now. CH is not required at all for Vinyl, so unless you had a piece of equipment that "had" to have x-amount of calcium your pool will be fine.
 
My SWG manual and heater manual both give the "standard APSP recommendations. The SWG does state that only salt level and stabilizer are important to maintain to prevent corrosion or scaling (that seems wrong to me, couldn't other factors than those two leads to corrosion?)

This was my question in another thread, the pool store guy tried to tell me that CH levels had to be maintained to protect pool equipment, and I was wondering if the CH levels had any effect on SWG cells.

Also, Pool math says my Saturation Index is: -1.5? Do I care? I guess this will improve if my PH rises... and would also probably improve if I improved the CH?
 
My SWG manual and heater manual both give the "standard APSP recommendations.
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Many, many pool/product makers and builders use that reference line. It's their go-to saying, regardless of the pool type or conditions. Corrosion is most impacted by a low pH, but it doesn't sound like they noted that in their manual. :wink: An elevated CH can be a problem for all pool types and equipment. As for a low CH, your only concern would be the heater as some may have issues with low calcium. So if your heater has a minimum CH requirement, I would meet that one, but that should be the one reason to have it in your pool.

Also, Pool math says my Saturation Index is: -1.5? Do I care?
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You do, but obviously not because of plaster, more for the equipment - your heater. This is why TFP developed those "Recommended Levels" (link below) to account for all of these issues across the board. All pool types, equipment, etc were all factored-in when TFP pioneers first researched and created those references. As long as you stay within those parameters, your water and equipment will do well.
 
Thanks Tex,

I will test tonight. As stated, the SWG doesn't really explicitly state to keep parameters to maintain warranty. The heater, however, does. Now, funny thing is they state 5ppm as a max FC and a minimum 2000pmm of salt... which is funny because TFP for SWG states 5 as my target and this is where the heater manual puts two ** seemingly to emphasize FC, PH and Salinity as the mportant parts of maintain warranty. My SWG is a low salt that has an ideal setting of 1500ppm (TFP recommends 200-400 over that). I think my unit would shut off as High Salt if I got to 2000ppm... What is also funny is there is no mention of CYA in this chart and how that would factor in to the FC level.

Heater.jpg

I will put some sodium chloride in tonight after testing to raise the hardness to a 150 range I guess.
 

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I will put some sodium chloride in tonight after testing to raise the hardness to a 150 range I guess.
Click to expand...

You add calcium chloride to raise CH.

Few pool industry companies recognize the FC/CYA relationship.
 
2nd test, definitely overdid it a bit on the salt, the 1766 arrived today

FC: 3.0 I turned the SWG down to 10%, should I bump the SWG up. or manually dose? I figured since there is some FC, I could bump up and wait?
CC: 0.2 - would really like this to get to 0
PH: 7.4 sweet!
TA: somewhere between 80 and 90, so looking good, seems to be coming down
CH: 30 again, going to dose the calcium chloride tonight
CYA: 60 - hasn't been 24hrs yet since I added CYA, a bit still left in the sock... so I will get there tomorrow I think
SLT: 2100 ppm! Definitely overdid it, but my SWG hasn't rung high salt yet and is reading 1700 ppm on the machine.

My PH test was weird tonight, not sure why this happened, but my first result was reading less than 7 (must be colour blind) , I followed the base demand test and stopped after 10 drops as nothing was changing
retested, showed the Mrs. and she said "7.4 for sure".... colour was different this time. I am not sure how I got vastly different results.
 
should I bump the SWG up. or manually dose?
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Maybe a little of both for now just so you don't dip too low.
- Your CC is the same as zero that low. Good!
- CYA sock - squeeze often to get those granules out of there.
- Salt, not the worse thing. :)

PH is a wacky one for me sometimes. I'll do it twice if I have to. Try different colored backgrounds as you look through the comparator blocks. Find what works best for you.
 
Now to figure how to tune the SWG and pump to be efficient. I have seen the calculator, but the link doesn't have output of the glx 5 cell listed and I haven't tested enough to get an avg fc loss. I can't imagine doing a slam, the time required for all that testing!

Can't thank you guys enough, will be donating!
 
I am confused now!

Did a FC and CYA test, and I am 8.2/70

I only ran the pump (on high) for 5 hrs at 30% generation.

Pool was covered the last 2 days and we have had rain, and my skimmer is now over full.

That seems like a big jump.
 

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