Recent content by tim86

and just to note, do not have a air compressor but do have a large shop vac,

my question is is there anyways i can blow all water out of the return line to where know for fact there is no water left that can damage lines and cap it, without draining water below the return, theres about 30-35 feet of 1 1/2 in pvc from pump to return line, in northern indiana so get...

i have a ruffly 10k gallon pool, 24 foot by 14 foot, vinyl liner, i have a single skimmer on one end of 24 foot wall and a single return on other end of that same wall, skimmer on deep end of course, pools 6 feet on deep end, 3 on shallow, i have a 1HP hayward pump, single speed, theres ruffly 7...

lol pool not in best shape, built in late 1980s, liner is new, but roots are growing under liner, omost entire distance of pool, and top step of pool is cracked bad, patch for now but needs be replaced

guessing close to 10k but not easy to figure out due to fact the the drop from deep to shallow isnt as graduale as most and half way down walls sloap in also, and ill just remove puck and not worry about it

in your opinion do u think the amount of cya added by using chlorinator on low would add up to more then amount cya lost from water i lose weekly from backwash, im at 35-40 atm on cya and like keep it ruffly around there - - - Updated - - - it will not be my main source of chlorination

i know whats involved with chlorine tablets, for every 10 ppm chlorine it adds 6 ppm stablizer, and lowers ph over time, i have 40 pucks left over, and just asking if i use one puck at a time only, and my chlorinate goes from 0-7, i have it at maybe .2, to where omost no water is flowing, if it...

since i have a sand filter that needs to be backwashed weekly, and reg evaporation, do u think be fine to use the pucks in auto chlorinator if only put in one puck at time and at very low setting, since ill have eventuly add stablizer anyways,

is a FC drop of 3.5-4 daily drop normal if outside temp is close to 90, and water temp is at 81 with cya of about 35, pool is used basicly daily for least 1 hour and it located under a large tree, water is crystal clear and all other checmicals are in range, ph 7.2-7.4

is it better to add daily chlorine directly to pool or dilute it in bucket water and then pore in, and best spot pore it in is in front of the return jet correct?

ok so at 40, min is 3 and goal with 3 daily drop should be 7 then so always a little extra room right? and should i use the auto chlorinator on very low so adds little chlorine and stabliser, we get average amount rain and its sand filter so weekly or so backwash so cya will slowly go down over...

had to drain my 24 x 14 foot vinyl pool due to high cya from auto chlorinator (stopped using it), after drain half and then little more after fill my test results with taylor k-2006 are FC 6.5 CC 0 cya 35, could barely see dot at 40, but couldnt at 30, so figure in middle ph 7.3-7.4 alk 90-100...

and its my understanding from what i read that free chlorine of 7-9 with cya at 55 wouldnt be as strong or hard on person as fc of 7-9 if cya is at 30, is that correct, and by as strong mean wont be as likely to irritate skin or burn eyes if was at same level with a low cya, is that correct?

ok thanks, atm, would best bet be to wait till get CYA a little lower and FC to level on CYA/FC chart, then test and worry about alkalinity then? and is cya level of 50-55 fine if chlorine doesnt bother us much and going be in 90 or higher with water temp prob closer to 80 due to solar panels?

when doing the alkalinity test, i do it like normal, 25 ml mark, 2 drops of 7, swirl, 5 drops of 8, swirl and then 9 and swirl till turns red, but instead red at 13-14 drops turns light organge and stays there, i can put 10 more drops in, wont make dif, also maybe worth noting, when turns green...