Recent content by Seadweller

No, I wish I was kidding :rolleyes:, but here's what's really odd. I wired the new board up exactly as the old board, which is why I didn't put the jumpers in. The old board did not have jumpers, so I figured the jumpers might be for 220V operation. How the old board worked for 3+ years...

Understood....But what concerns me is there's no safeguard if the flow switch fails open. I have my salt system scheduled to start one hour after the pump starts, and 3 hours before the pump turns off. An electrical interruption will impact both timers equally, so there's really very little...

Thanks....If it fails closed, how does the system know there's no water flow?

Are they designed to fail open? I just put a new PCB in my system, and the flow light immediately came on, so I don't know how long the flow switch has been bad. No indication on the unit, and it was producing chlorine until the board failed.

Thanks, that's a direct enough answer for me not to do it...:) Is it to avoid the risk of explosion if the pump were to stop?

My flow switch just went bad, and I ordered another one that'll arrive tomorrow. Is it OK to wire it closed until the new one comes in? I realize the danger of having the cell running without water flow, but the salt system is timed to only run with the pump, so the risk is low.

Well, I have to be a man and admit a foolish oversight. In my rush to get the new board installed, I forgot to install the 2 jumpers for 120V operation. No wonder my dad aways said if I had any sense I'd be dangerous. :ROFLMAO:

Well, after a bit more research, only Hayward provides the resistance specs for the transformer. None of the other brands, from CircuPool, to Blue Works, to Pureline, to Calimar, to Rx Clear, to, well, you get the picture, know the info. I did find that the technical specifications of the...

Greetings! I'm troubleshooting my CircuPool Universal 40 SWG, and I'm trying to rule out the transformer as the issue. I called CircuPool, and they don't have the resistance specifications, nor do they sell a replacement. The Universal 40 is identical to many brands, such as Pureline, Blue...

The pool pump is actually above the water level in the pool on a raised pad. The pump inlet is probably 18"-20" above the water level in the pool.

Well, pulled the valve, found no blockage and the flapper is operating properly and in the correct position. Essentially, all 3 valves are working properly so I can rule those out completely now. I've run pressurized water into both the skimmer port and cleaner port, and water is flowing...

I'll pull that valve today. It's the last thing in the way of the water flow to the pump. That will completely rule out an equipment issue, other than the plumbing from the pool itself.

Thanks...I've essentially ruled out most everything that you mentioned, except for the one automated actuator valve which is the only one I did not take apart, so I guess that's the next step. You would think that even with a minor air leak, the pump would prime but be full of bubbles/air. I'm...

Thanks…I tried that, and every combination you can think of as well. If you look closely, the main drain line was cut and capped off, because the main drain was evidently leaking. Some pool company filled the main drain with concrete. That’s why I’m so mystified, I cannot draw a prime from...

Below are some pictures....Brand new pump, and everything is as it should be....I tried priming the pump through the drain to eliminate anything further downstream, and nothing.