Recent content by scader

Thanks everyone for the images/links, and quick replies. I'll go measure 10.5. I just added some de, should I backwash that out before adding more sand? Maybe sandwiched will keep it around longer? Is there still a conversation kit for the clear pro? Thoughts on if better/worse than adding de...

I just performed a deep clean on my Triton ii 60 and the sand bed was a few inches below the intake port. I believe that is too low--only half way, and I should add some more. Anyone familiar with this filter to know where 325lbs hits? The intake port is right before the bend back in, so I'm...

While slamming, is it more trouble to vacuum the dead algae to waste and refill/balance, or filter which always returns some of the algae back to the pool taking it longer to fully clear? I have a 30k pool and vacuum to waste drops about an inch or two, or approx 600g.

Thanks for the link and thoughts, appreciate your time to respond. Interesting... I've always set my swg to whatever strength needed to maintain FC with it continually running at a low speed (currently about 45% output). I suppose I could run it at max strength and run the pump less., but it...

I was of the understanding that pool owners attempt to run the pump only as need to circulate once over for cost savings. That would vary based on conditions, are you suggesting to run it based on visual debris? I have my pump scheduled to run 1100 23.5 hrs and at 3100 for a half hour in the...

Silly question: I turn the pressure gauge markings so that Start is the initial reading after a good backwash, right? That seems to be 20 psi.

To determine if I have to run it 24/7 to do a complete turn over. Not directly related to this thread, but I assume even at 1100 that would happen in less than 24hrs for 30k gal.

I was curious if the algae would drop so I could vacuum to waste, but I can turn it back on. Does it matter the speed? I typically run it at 1100rpm 24/7. (A flow guage is a goal for next year.)

I'm currently slamming the pool after a bit of algae formed, had FC at 20 at sunrise, CYA is 50, pump/salt gen is turned off. After a full day of sun the FC is at 19 (CC effectively 0). I know slamming is about what happens overnight, but wouldn't you expect FC to drop more than 1ppm in a full...

I missed this update, sorry. It stinks bad. I didn't know you could have an unpainted, plaster pool. Lots to learn, still. While bad, I don't have the funds to replaster at this time. Is there such thing as an alge stain or is it always just alge to remove? I should have taken new pictures...

@JamesW don't want to loose that part of the discussion...any advice for removing the alge "stain"?

Raising FC to 30 wasn't intentional, but I thought during OCLT the FC would only drop due to alge or other contaminants? I plan to get to 70 CYA once I complete the SLAM, but I'm also confused that 10ppm is a safe level of chlorine? For years using a SWG I kept it at 2-3ppm/60-plus CYA, so this...

So I incidently bumped the FC to 31ppm (SLAM calculator said goal was 22), but the pool does look more clear. In the morning it had dropped to 26ppm, so need to maintain the SLAM.

Yes, epoxy paint. The deep end is paint from before we bought the house a few years ago and had the alge water during the shallow end repairs.

I redid my TA and it turned pink at 9 drops, so 90ppm at 25ml. Going to SLAM and OCLT tonight. It's a bit difficult to see the green stain while cloudy, but for reference, here was the water line while I was doing pool repairs in the shallow end... ...and today: