Recent content by InyoRich

Plus 1 (Maybe 1001) to AJW22's comments. It gets expensive -quickly- to throw parts into an older heater. It looks like only the keypad and bezel were replaced (these are relatively low-tech items), so, if the display is suddenly out, I would check any/all connections to be sure nothing is...

I'd recommend checking the cost of replacement cartridges before you decide on a filter. Some cartridge sizes are very common, so replacements are inexpensive (not that you'll need to replace them that often, but...). Some are unique and pretty expensive (thinking about you, Sta-Rite System 3).

Ohdeargodno, do not put lubricant on the mating parts of the shaft seal. I'm sorry if someone at Inyo sent you that video - only use it for basic disassembly/reassembly. Here is Inyo's video for installing a shaft seal: How to Replace a Pool Pump Shaft Seal

The trick is to fasten the end to something (the upright, if you can) and then pull it tight as you go around the pool. The first layer may or may not be great, but everything after that should be (relatively) easy.

Evaporation is your enemy when you heat a pool, so leave the solar cover on the pool all of the time when you are actively heating the pool and not physically in it. You would be surprised at how much a gentle breeze will cool it off when it is uncovered.

PS The circular part that the motor fastens to in your picture is the seal plate (part #C203-193P). Chances are it probably was not replaced, since it looks like the original factory sticker is still on it. You shouldn't need to replace the motor - and 9 years is a great life span for today's...

Greetings! It does look like you have a Sta-Rite Dura-Glas/Max-E-Glas pump so use the Gokit6 if your pump is pre-1998 (with the copper seal insert) or use the Gokit54 if your pump is newer than 1998 and has no copper insert. Not sure? Get the Gokit54 and discard the copper seal if it is in...

Watch the water jugs as weights for the cover. The eyelets on the covers are only designed to hold the cable so they can rip pretty easily if heavy weights are added to them and create other headaches.

Or bring a box or 2 of sweets to your shipping department at work - they will happily trade a mostly-used roll of shrink wrap for a couple dozen donuts!

I've never used it, but google ABOVE GROUND POOL COVER WIND SEAL. It is essentially a long roll of shrink wrap and should help mitigate wind from getting under the cover.

My opinion: Proper removal is proper removal. Get rid of everything (the pool shell, the wiring, the plumbing, etc) if you think someone wants to build a pool in your backyard in the future and/or if you want to remove it properly. A potential buyer would (should?) get freaked out by seeing...

That can be a sticky situation. If you do get a new wall, be sure that the rest of the structure of the pool (including the wall channels, bottom straps, pressure plates, and bottom plates) is also in good condition. You don't want to order a new wall and find that the other parts are rusted...

My apologies for the late reply - I was out of town. The 263053 would be the modern replacement for your WC12 push-pull valve. O-rings are available (and cheaper - and easier to install versus a new valve, unless there is a physical issue with the old one). I think your WC12 is the 1-1/2"...

I really like the Grid Controls Flow Switches. They are very reliable and there is a model for pretty much any application. Run the power for the salt system through it so, if the flow gets too low or some other issue arises (the SWCG flow switch poops out or the pump quits working), it will...

I wonder if its a result of the sugar cane fields getting burned west of us? I pressure-washed my patio and, a few days later, the air was visibly smoky and smelled like something was burning (it was the sugar cane fields). The little bit of rain I got afterward made the deck look like it was...