Recent content by Dave_NJ

So as is tradition here is my annual post to humble brag about the TFP method and my pool going from opened to crystal clear in 24 hours. I can easily see the main drain cover screws from 10' away I can't recommend the TFP app enough and it sure beats paying someone else more money for subpar...

Been following/using the TFP method for a few years now and every year I remember why. Opened the pool on a Sunday, ran the robot a few times, tested the water, added salt/CYA/borax/liquid chlorine, turned on the SWCG, did a mini-SLAM and four days later pool looks immaculate. Can clearly see...

Hmm I added 4 lbs over the past week or so, will keep an eye on pH and see if it stabilizes with no cya being added. Thanks for the insight as always.

Not that I'm aware of, haven't had to fill except for once at beginning of season. Didn't think of rain but the pH drops even with no rain. What you are saying makes sense, pH shouldn't drop unless acid is being added. I will have to think about what could be introducing acid into the water...

No cover unless pool is closed for the season.

Every week my pool pH is consistently lower by .1 or so. I have a SWCG so I assumed I would have to deal with the opposite. It's not a big deal, I add 1lb of borax every other week to bring pH back up to 7.7-7.8 and my TA remains about the same at 70 every time I test. I am more curious than...

Hah easy enough, thank you

Hi all, I opened my pool on Sunday and all went well. I did my initial testing yesterday and added/adjusted chemicals as needed (not much really needed, thanks TFP!) The only issue is according to the TFP app my CSI is -.89! I wouldn't usually be concerned about this except I now have a SWCG...

My water is clear and I passed the oclt but I have the same specks visible in front of my light at night and exactly the same as you described: visible 6"-8" directly in front of the light and that's it. I figured it was natural occurring debris and don't worry about it too much

I went ahead and tested for phosphates. Taylor test indicated between 250-500 ppb (lighter than 250, darker than 500). I will probably re-test when I open the pool and add the appropriate amount of Orenda PR-10000. I don't really think this is influencing the amount of chlorine being produced...

My 406a heater uses an intermatic t104r timer with the intermatic fireman's switch, works great and ensures the heater isn't running when the pump is off. I didn't look up the spec for your heater but mine is 240v, if you are using 120 the t103r should be fine.