Recent content by CrystalRiver

Take advantage of the opportunity and backwash. No harm done by doing that.

Evaporation and refill result in zero net CYA change. CYA does not leave the pool when water evaporates, it just gets left behind, raising the concentration a bit. Then you top off and the concentration goes back to where it started. Unless you have a very shallow pool and are replacing several...

Let the TA ride. You need to know what it is currently for calculating the acid additions to control your pH. Having a high TA means your pH will tend to rise faster. TA below 50 can cause foaming. For those with a plaster pool or salt water generator, they need to know TA to calculate CSI to...

The only thing to maybe hang on to is the giant size chlorinating tablets, for use if you go on vacation. Everything else, sell it.

Pool Math does all the calculation for you. It knows your pool size because you entered that when you set up the pool. All you have to do is pour it in slowly in front of a return with the pump running. You'll need to add acid again when your pH hits 8. Bring your FC up to 6 now. You...

What is your plumbing setup? Are all valves (especially those downstream of the filter) open? How many returns? Plumbing size? What pump do you have for the filter?

I don't think you've gotten rid of all your algae. Bring it back up to SLAM level for today, and do an OCLT tonight.

The process for lowering TA is to use acid to lower pH to 7.0 or 7.2, then aerate to let pH rise to 7.8 or 8.0, rinse and repeat. Each time you add acid, that lowers both pH and TA. Aerating raises pH and does nothing to TA. Over time, repeating the process brings the TA down while keeping pH in...

We can get you to a sparkling clear pool. It is going to take some time - it didn't turn green in a day and it won't turn back in a day. The first thing you need to do is stop causing more problems. Take the tablets out of the skimmers. Do not add anything to the pool except the chlorine...

Retest the pH 30 minutes after adding acid, pump on. That will tell you if the pH is going down and bouncing back up due to high TA.

You can safely swim as long as FC is below SLAM target and you can see the entire bottom of the pool.

Pressure going from 6 to 10 is a 67% pressure increase. The usual recommendation is to clean whenever pressure rises by 25%. That has the best balance of not backwashing too often, but also not waiting too long. When the filter is too dirty, flow drops.

Install the SWG, *test your existing salt level because it's not zero*, add salt, done.

With a fresh fill, you have no CYA. No CYA means the sun burns up your chlorine almost instantly. Pucks aren't good for anything other than occasionally going on vacation. Right now, they are releasing chlorine and CYA too slowly. Soon, the CYA will build up and render the chlorine ineffective...

It's safe to swim as long as FC is not above SLAM and you can see the entire bottom of the deep end (so you would know if someone was drowning).