Recent content by C0d3Sp4c3

It looks like a corrupted EEPROM data. There have been a few threads in this forum for the same issues with no known fix. Reprogramming the U4 (93C46B) 16-bit Serial EEPROM should fix it. But I have not known anyone here who has gotten around it. Try to call Hayward and see what they can do.

@OP, You have sw r1.58 and it looks like the thermistor AS32-2R05 is cracked. The picture's quality makes it hard to confirm that. However, the display should be working. The TB1 jumper setting on your board suggested that you are wired for 120VAC operation. Make sure that the 120VAC is present...

In case you want to stay with the same AS32 models. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ametherm/as32-2r025/2614388

You might have the wrong references. Pin 2 is Negative and pin 4 is Positive 5Vdc. Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading This might give you some leads in troubleshooting your AQR bd.

I hope this video will help others troubleshoot their Aquarite Salt cell temperature sensor. AQR Salt Cell Temperature Sensor bypass

It should work for Aquarite. Try it! I have this old AQR mainboard sw r1.55 with a hacked 10k resistor soldered on the PCB to spoof the temp sensor. I move the jumper to the 10k resistor during cold months for uninterrupted chlorine production or remove the jumper to keep the temp sensor line...

On the Aquarite, you can isolate the thermister or disconnect the red or blue wire for testing. With the temp sensor disconnected, the controller will revert to the default fixed temp at 77°F.

I have to agree with JamesW, 2800 ppm is most likely incorrect. Get yourself a K-1766 Salt test kit. You need to understand that the salt cell when nearing the end of its useful life or if heavily soiled will give a lower salt reading than the actual salt level. You made the most common mistake...

Move the switch to the OFF position. Push the diagnostic button 2x. What's the voltage reading on the display? Is the power led illuminated for as long as the AC power is on? Or if you are confident working around electricity, get a voltmeter and measure the incoming AC supply between terminals...

Product ID getting stuck in AL-5 instead of the correct AL-7 in the diagnostics. Tell tale sign that EEPROM data is corrupted presumably caused by voltage spike or lightning. But you need to get the display bd going to confirm. Maybe you have a bad disp bd.

Is your pump running? Can you post the diagnostic readings? Can't remember if the 'No Flow' blinks on a RJ during the initial start-up. But the 'Click' sound you are referring to will happen exactly 10 seconds after the 'Generating' LED has turned on. Let's hope that this is not another AL-5 issue!

Fyi, the Hayward Aquatrol is shipped with a T-5 cell by default and the Cell type selection is not available in the diagnostics. However, other Aquatrol users in this forum have testified that upgrading the T-5 cell to a T-15 is feasible by installing a jumper wire across the J4 solder pads on...