Recent content by C0d3Sp4c3

I am sorry, but I am just a pool owner and a DIY'er. Armed with some background in electronics, I conducted my own research to better understand how my Aquarite swcg works and under no obligations, I strive to help others. There's a wealth of knowledge in the Wiki section in this forum, in case...

I think you are on the right track. But what have you got to lose? Replace the U13. The U13 chip will cut off the 5-volt supply to the TP14 post whenever the voltage reading at TP13 drops below the min threshold level of 4 volts. Make sure you have a constant 5vdc supply at TP13 for as long as...

As indicated above in red, you need to wait for at least 10 seconds or wait until you hear the relay click before pushing the diagnostic button to prevent this error. For the issue with the display board, the use of an electronic contact cleaner as suggested previously in this thread, is ideal...

As observed, the cool-off period between auto polarity reversal is approximately 50 seconds for the r1.50 and higher. The Power and Chlorinating LED stays on. Chlorine production is capped by 20% if the water temp is =or< 63°F, at least for me. I can't speak for the r1.4 though.

I think it's time for a new cell. Resistors in series or parallel will do the trick or use a 20kΩ potentiometer. I am currently using 13.3kΩ to trick the controller's temp reading at 65°F to get by. Can you post the diagnostic readings?

Yes, you can on the r1.5+ sw. I'm not sure if the same is true for the r1.40. Disconnect the cell from the mainboard and verify if the temp reading defaulted to the 77°F.

If you can solder, the IPD088N06N3G TO-252 MOSFET Transistor is available. However, Diode D14 on your PCB is also fried and I have yet to get a clear picture to read the marking code on it. But I think any 3A diode will suffice. Here's the link for your reference: MOSFET 0880N06N 18Ω, 2 watts...

Sad to hear! But hey, 12 years is a good life. Looks like a replacement PCB is non-existent. Judging from the color band and actual size of the burnt resistor it could be a 2 watts, 18Ω, +/-5%, temp coefficient of 100 ppm/°C Most likely, 1 or more MOSFETs are fried and maybe something else!

However, if the "Generating" LED stays solid but the pump runs intermittently, inspect the 15A AC socket at the bottom of the panel and the wiring connections. Also, the K3 relay must be checked for cold solder or burned circuit trace.