Recent content by Bubba

So I slammed it again. Easily passed overnight drop test on the first night and every time since (FC & CC) but pool is still not clear. Backwash water appears to be clear, even after 2 days running 24/7. CYA 30 TA 60 pH 7.2 FC 13 CC < 0.5 Do we still think it's algae? I did a deep clean on...

Ok, I'm going to raise my CYA etc. and do another slam to be sure.

Unless it's normal for filter output to not be totally clear ?

I'm thinking that either the filter is not working properly or there is nothing in suspension. The filter was definitely catching algae during the SLAM so it's doing something.

Definitely not brown, not green either. looks the same as the pool water, cloudy. I disconnected salt water generator and the water in there (post filter) looks exactly the same. No visible particles in suspension. I filtered the water through a kitchen paper towel (multiple times), looks the...

Been filtering for about 2 weeks as well as running pool cleaner and skimmer sock. No visible signs of dead algae in pool cleaner or skimmer sock.

FC is steady at 4.0 (with salt water generator running) CYA 10 TA 10 PH 6.8 I added 2 lbs Asorbic Acid which cleaned up my steps beautifully, can't see bottom of the pool to verify what that looks like. CYA, TA and PH are low because of rain and backwashing during slam (PH possibly also due to...

I did a 30min deep clean on the filter, CC is barely 0.5. Are you saying that there's no chance that the iron would make the pool water green and cloudy?

I already slammed the pool, no signs of algae in skimmer sock or pool cleaner, over night FC test shows nothing growing, still can't see the bottom of pool.

Somehow a steel rod spent the winter in my pool :confused:. Pool is algae free (OCLT test) and still very green (can't see the bottom). I've confirmed the presence of iron with asorbic acid on the brown stains on my white steps but I can't see how much of the rest of the pool has stains. Safe...

Thanks for the additional opinions. I think what I'll do is experiment with return line valves and reducers to see if I can get sufficient pressure for the 180 to work with no booster without blowing the filter. Filter specs state 62GPM and max 40 psi Assuming spishex is correct that 180...

Thanks spishex, looks like I'll be ordering the 360 .

I'm about to replace all the plumbing on the pad so adding valves is easy. Filter damage would be my main concern (Hayward S-244T Sand filter 62GPM). Currently I have 2 suction lines to pump, pump to filter, filter to Tee for Booster Main line continues to chlorine tablet feeder and 2...

I have an old Polaris 180, it works fine (rebuilt it last year) and I've been very happy with the performance but now the booster pump is dead (motor bearings). I've recently adopted a more 'energy efficient' approach and I'm thinking about upgrading? to a 360 rather than replacing the booster...