Recent content by btolley

No idea how old it is but at least 10 or 11 and probably more. It is stiff but just from the cold I think, it seems pliable enough when I manually manipulate it. I could start with replacing that since its cheaper than a pump.

Counted 26 rpm. Might get to 28 if I emptied the bag but it,s only 1/4 full.

Looks like the right sweep but my pump is way older.

Thanks I will give it a try.

I might have the model number wrong, 280 sounds correct. The booster pump is old and makes bearing noise at times and I have never replaced the main hose. Both of those items could be 20 years old.

I have a Polaris 200, it goes to one end of the pool and never the other direction. I have rebuilt it and it works better, the backup valve seems to be working. Any ideas why it would behave like that? The booster pump may be part of the problem. It's making noises like there is a bad bearing in...

So I added enough salt to get me to 3740. The red light is saying salt is low. Is that the normal reaction from an IC 40? The salt will go down to 3600 i a week or two but will it make chlorine during the over-salted period? Bart

Hello all, This summer a streak of greenish/brownish stain developed in a line along my pool from the shallow end to the deep end. I assume it's algae, but it is different than other algae I have experienced. A few times over the years I let the chlorine lapse and got green algae, it has always...

I have a 2 way port valve with motorized control that leaks at the valve cap. I installed a new o-ring and put an extra goopy amount of o-ring lube on it, but it still weeps. Tried varying the pattern in which the screws are installed, didnt work Is it possible to put too much o-ring lube? Any...

I have a sneaking suspicion that my new IC40 (replacing a failed IC20) isn't producing much chlorine. Pool store cannot test it. Is there any kind of way to test and see if it produces the as advertised amount of chlorine??

You would have to cut the pipe and unthread the coupling. But there are several things to check first. I would remove the pump lid, taking the opportunity to clean the basket, and replace the lid making sure to use o-ring lube. You may also have the ability to purge air from your system at the...

Also, look to see if you have a check valve allowing water to drain back into the pool. I had that and it caused the pump basket to be dry at every startup.

Yep, the bottom holes errode and that is what causes the motor to "sag" against the seal plate. I think that will solve satpoolguy's problem.

Shot in the dark; i had a problem where the motor was not perpindicular to the seal plate and interferred with the impeller. So the motor would spin freely until it was attached to the seal plate, then just a hum. Just a suggestion of someplace to look.

I had some similar symptoms with a worn out check valve.