Recent content by Bazul

Well, as many things like this that I try and figure out myself go...they'd go a lot easier if I wasn't so stupid. :rolleyes: I'm looking through this whole post again trying to figure out what I missed and I ran across this reply from about 2 weeks (and 20 hours of kneeling on rocks) ago...

OK, I've got a good RMS Multimeter (Fluke 87V). To test flame sensor I'm not sure what setting it should be on, and am I testing during the short period of time (3-5 seconds) that gas is flowing or should I be able to test while it's just sitting there idle? Re: gas pressure static and...

Ignitor: Good. I started it with the ignitor out and exposed with the gas off and it lit up just fine. Flame sense ground: Sanded and cleaned the ground points in the control box and I ran new grounds as instructed in the Wiki (both location #1 and #2). I'm assuming you can't OVER ground. Gas...

I have not tested gas pressure. I don't have a manometer and it's been fine for 14 years though I suppose there's always a first time for everything to change. Next steps I think are to do some work on solidifying ground after reading on flame sensing from the article from the Wiki. I'll...

That is correct. Those are the only insulation pieces I found when opened, they sandwich the copper pipes from the manifold and they seem in fine shape. So what's my next step to solve the ignition lockout indicated by 3 red light blinks from the Fenwal? I start the heater either manually...

OK. Not the ignitor so I took it apart again and fully opened the kettle, before I just vacuumed out through the blower mount hole. Some debris, I'll give it a thorough cleaning hopefully it's that corrosion causing flame sense current to get lost theory.

So over the winter mice got into the heater through the blower and FILLED the kettle full of insulation and acorns. It took me a while to determine that's what was going on but when I did I completely disconnected the heater and brought it into the garage. The heater was up against the house...