Recent content by allisen

@Newdude You were right. I got an even higher alkalinity reading on the water straight from our hose today! So I guess I will expect that from now on. I assume it’s ok as long as everything else is balanced.

Looks like I only lost 0.5 FC overnight (one drop less on this mornings test)! So no SLAM necessary correct? I’ll work on getting the CYA up to 30 today.

@Newdude Salt test kit is on its way to me! That’s awesome about swimming, my kids will be very excited! And that’s a great point about the TA of our hose water. I will test that in the morning! Thank you guys so much for walking me through this. I really appreciate all the help.

@an1vrsy This is the same test kit I used all last year. And my TA was high all last season too. I was really careful when I did the Ted and made sure to wipe between drops as directed. And I know no one likes the test strips but I dipped one when I did this just for funsies and it showed it...

Oh yeah, and somehow I overshot the salt. I used pool math based on what my intellichlor was telling me but I’m wondering if my started number was inaccurate somehow? Is it still ok that high?

Got the pool open on Tuesday. I’ve been running the pump, heater, and vacuum since. Pool looks pretty good. Ran my first full chem test this morning and would love some advice on how to tackle my results. This is only my second year and I’m always a little nervous right after opening until I get...

Sorry guys, false alarm! I have confirmed that my SWG goes dark when the pump turns off. I thought the PB had set me up on a 12 hour schedule and I had never seen the lights go off. But they must have had it on 24. My chlorine is still high, 9.5 — probably because it’s been cold and the cover...

Maybe my system is setup this way and I just didn't know because the PB had set the pump to run 24/7 thus always having the SWG on as well. If I go manually turn the pump off will the all the lights go out on my IC40 (provided the IC40 is programed to shut off when the pump shuts off)?

It has a flow meter so it stops producing chlorine if there is not enough flow, but it doesn't turn off completely. From what I've read on here that can be dangerous because if the flow meter were to fail it could explode? Or by flow switch do you mean something else?

Ok lol, after some further reading and exploring of my setup... it looks like my SWG is not set to turn off completely when the pump stops running and from what I've read that can be dangerous. So... now I've set my pump up to run 24/7 at the minimum RPM to keep the flow switch open on the SWG...

Thanks! That’s kind of what I thought re RPMs too. That makes total sense on running the minimum most of the time and juicing it up occasionally for skimming.

I'm new to all of this and looking for some pump setting and schedule suggestions. All my pool info should be in my signature for reference. I will need my pump to heat, skim, and chlorinate with the SWG. I think my PB set me up on a 12 hour schedule but it also may have been 24 hours at 2500...

Ok. Thanks! After some more pool math playing, I think I’ll try the pump down to 8 hours at 30% on the SWG. I suppose this is all a bit of a guessing game until we find out how we really use the pool on a regular basis. Thanks again for all your help.