Recent content by Ahultin

May have been running lean and slowly damaging the heater Depends - it looks like s 3/4 or maybe 1" line. Based on the below chart, at 50ft, <2psi, neither supported 400k btu. You could see if your gas supplier can support a 2 stage setup which would require installation of a low pressure...

Looks like an undersized meter and and undersized gas line for a 400k btu heater. Whats the distance that 3/4 poly is running?

We used "flagstone" on or build and it is on the spa overflow. I think the issue is the term flagstone is used to describe a wide variety of materials. While we were shopping i asked the question of longevity straight to the quarry that our material was coming from and they stated anything that...

No signature shows up when i am looking. https://www.troublefreepool.com/wiki/index.php?title=Create_Your_Signature

Pool pump and pool heater are both 220v, pool light is 110v I assume it's the pump breaker which powers the intellicenter and that is 220 which means that switch is being used 220v Pull the cover off the line voltage compartment of the intellicente (if you're comfortable doing so) and snap a...

No, the markings mean it can be between 120 and 277. It is definitely a dual pole switch so it could just be switching off both the hot and neutral (based on the answer to question 1). If that is the case then everything is running 120 and potentially a smart switch could work. 1. What size is...

based on what I gathered, it sounds like you had a single circuit coming from your main panel to the pool pad thru this switch. When you upgraded, they left this configuration and added intellicenter to it. I'm assuming that switch is being used as 220v , cutting both hots, but it could have...

So, depending on how it is wired, it may be disconnecting both poles, I am assuming this is on the feed line to your intellicenter so it quite possibly disconnects both hots. you wont be able to do that with a standard smart switch and you dont want to/cant legally within NEC disconnect only one...

Zooming in it looks like that's a 220 switch, if so, i don't beleive there is a 220 smart switch, you'd have to go to something like a sonoff relay. In that case it would be faster/easier/cheaper to just use a shelly mini only on the system transformer lead.

Whatever you utilize would best need to occur inside the high voltage center (or you are significantly complicating the wiring). The manual shutoff, assuming the controller transformer is on a dedicated circuit, is the breaker. You could run conduit out of one of the knockouts on the load...

Assuming you get wifi signal at the panel, this might be a perfect application for a shelly mini 1 gen3

the "2025" s1 has bluetooth and wifi but just for ota updates, I think mine may be the 2024 version which does not appear to. In floor/wall mode it will go up the ramp to the shallow end during the "wall" operation but it doesnt end up getting the full shallow end as it goes straight to the...

I am running into an issue with the s1 as my transition from deep to shallow is too steep so if running floor only, as soon as it gets to the deep end it will not ascend back to shallow. I reached out with this concern and they replied that I need a firmware update which is supposed to be...

I mitigate some of the charging risk by having the robot plugged into a controlled outlet (for me we had an extra relay on our intellicenter but it would be easy to do with any smart outlet) , for the Pro i had it set to on from 7pm to 9pm so it was only charging while i was awake. Since the...

Given that the charge time has doubled and the battery life has shrunk by 25%, I'd guess that the "updated" Pro is safe. My guess is that Aiper didn't initially offer the Pro as an update because from a specifications perspective, it appears closer to the original Scuba Plus, for which anyone...