Recent content by Agentbolt

The previous owner of the pool that came with my house would be, in my mind, the "average" pool owner. He went to the pool store about once a month and bought about 60 bucks worth of supplies, including an OTO test kit, some cal-hypo shock, and some Trichlor tablets. I'd say he's a common pool...

You should be confused, my temperature was set way too low on the pool calculator. My CSI is actually only -.21. (also obviously I had the decimal point in the wrong place). So as long as my TA doesn't dip to like 50 I'm fine?

No to both, sir. I also do not point the return jets up, and the pool isn't in use yet. I can only imagine the pain I'm in for once it starts getting used and aerated.

FC 7 CC 0 PH 7.7 TA 60 CH 375 CYA 55 I've run into a problem with my TA. This is an older pool and the PH is fairly constantly rising, which I've been fighting with MA. The pool has some moderate to severe calcium scaling perpetrated by the previous owner, so I've been trying to keep the Ph...

Sweet! That will certainly work. This idea sounded a LOT less stupid at 7 this morning incidentally.

Maybe I should clarify, I'm not saying I expect this thing to turn my pool into a bath or anything, I'm just wondering if it would speed up the "opening" process to get the water to a swimmable temperature. 200w of heat 24/7 is still 200w of heat, it'd be slow as heck but maybe it'd shave a few...

simple question: putting a 200w aquarium heater in the pool for a month. It would cost 14 bucks in electrical useage per month. Would it actually DO anything though.? 15k gallon IG plaster, no cover here in AZ.

Re: Two quick questions re: free chlorine levels and how to Well, I guess we'll see. I've done the CYA test twice in case I screwed something up there, but the way that thing works, it seems like erring on the side of too high is far more likely than erring on the side of too low. So I know...

I don't seem to be losing FC at a normal pace. Here in tucson the water's up to 60 degrees, I chlorinate with 10% liquid chlorine. I had a horrifying CYA level of 150, I managed to the get that down to 55 with a partial water change. However, despite the CYA being at a good level for here...

The fill water here (Tucson, AZ) is pretty hard. The Taylor kit said it's about 260 or so. This partial drain I did should get it down somewhat but I'm guessing not by much.

Very interesting info, thanks guys! I don't have a heater, so it would appear that I can get away with getting the CSI low and maybe using one of those calcium remover products like Jack's Magic The Copper & Scale Stuff, and over time (I'm in no rush, it looks bad but it's not hurting anything...

Hmmm, there's something I hadn't considered. I suppose in the grand scheme of things that's good news. The guy who lived here before basically just kept like 5 trichlor pucks in a floater at all times (hence the CYA levels being what they are), if he was using cal hypo to shock or something...

TC 14 CC 0 PH 7.6 TA 85 CYA 150 CH 450

I was doing my weekly chemistry check on the pool and decided to do a CYA test again just for fun (I've only done the one before, Taylor gives you enough reagents to do 20,000 CH tests but EIGHT CYA tests, go figure) and doing the dilution trick netted me a result of 150. It's not causing...

I'll keep an eye on things, IF I broke down though and decided to just destroy the CYA I'd probably opt for renting a pump from Home Depot to drain it into the sewer, rather than paying a fortune for the r/o truck to come by. Thanks for the info that they're here though! One last question, is...