Need Add-On Deck Advice

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T

tedujam

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Feb 26, 2015
138
Austin
I could use some suggestions. Once my pool is finished, I will have very little deck area, due to maxing out the CoA impervious coverage limit. What I want to do is build a larger deck out from the edge of the pool deck towards the back fence. I'm betting it will need to be a wood deck, since I can't do a concrete deck myself, and any reliable builder is going to want a CoA permit, which they won't grant.

Is it possible to do this on my own or do I just need to start selling blood to pay someone? I have to have a deck, not only for the extras space, but I need somewhere to mount the slide.

The deck would be built out from the tree side pool deck.


 
Sure, you can build a deck with moderate DIY skills. I would look at a composite material. It will hold up much longer, reduce maintenance significantly and no splinters in bare feet. We built some deck with Choicedeck from Lowes. 18 mos in and we like it a lot.
 
Building a small deck close to the ground is fairly easy, you just need the right tools. At a minimum this is a circular saw, and a drill, decking boards can either be nailed or screwed down, you will see advice for both, but if you plan to nail down this is a place where you will want a framing nail gun and an air compressor. Synthetic decking boards are nice, but cost about 4-6 times the price of wood, they however do hold up longer and are more maintenance free. Another thing you should be aware of is that most deck building how to's you find will describe the techniques needed to build a deck "up north" where the ground freeze and swells, so they tend to have substantial concrete footings, something likely not needed in Austin. As to how long this would take to build, all I can tell you is my wife and I build a small 8x8 ft wood deck / landing about 10 years ago over the course of 2 weekends (would have been 1 weekend except for weather delays). The deck we built is about 24-30 inches off the ground, and has a set of 2 steps on one side along with a hand rail, it is built table style sitting on thick concrete paver style blocks with 4x4 legs at each corner that are connected to the 2x8 framing with carriage bolts, the legs have X bracing also connected with carriage bolts and decking was nailed down with a framing nail gun (care was given to the grain of the boards to prevent cupping). Decking is pressure treated wood decking planks (1 5/8 x 5.5 I think, thinner than a 2x6), it gets pressured washed every year or two, and resealed about every 3 years, and is still holding up well with no sign of need for replacement.

Ike
 
No, other than a sketch I made to create a materials list. I built my first deck a long time ago and have built quite a few since then. I prefer to use screws.

You could probably build your deck on deck blocks. I think Lowe's has a deck design tool.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_19070-1662-DEK-BLOCK+BRAND+PIER_0__?productId=3613302

Once you get a little further along the process there are probably plenty of people here who can help with pointers and ideas.
 
FWIW, if it is just the CoA impervious surface limits you are up against, there are several options of permeable pavers and even permeable concrete that might be available in your area. Just like it sounds, the permeable pavers let the water permeate the block and therefore are usually exempted from those permits. Though it might be tough if your's is the first time with the CoA, but I do see options on their website for permeable concrete. I don't know the cost of the concrete, but pavers are comparable i think.
 

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A word of caution for the deck fasteners. I have wood stairs that lead up to a slide and they get soaked. Between the salt and chlorine, I've gone through a set of galvanized nails, and two sets of deck screws on the stairs. I replaced the stairs just this winter and used 306 stainless screws, I'll see how well they hold up.
 
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