Fathead657

Silver Supporter
Jul 5, 2023
127
Fort Wayne, Indiana
Pool Size
19655
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
So chemicals were all good before the slam cya was a little high at 70 for liquid chlorine pool. Had to slam for 18 days and have been waiting for chlorine to come back in range.

With the testing I have seen the cya slowly drop to the point that it’s getting so low I can’t register on test.

The only thing that has changed this year is I haven’t been running the frog chlorination system. Makes me want to turn it back on low to help.

Any ideas
 
I do not have an auto fill but backwashing while I was slamming probably exchange 2000 to 3000 gallons of water
Still a major math error there with almost 20k gallons. 🤷‍♂️

Welp. The only test that really counts is the current one. The next time it's blazing sun around lunch, get a solid reading and go from there.
 
Still a major math error there with almost 20k gallons. 🤷‍♂️

Welp. The only test that really counts is the current one. The next time it's blazing sun around lunch, get a solid reading and go from there.
That’s why I’m so confused all last year it was 70 CYA when I had the frog system running with the 3 inch tablets in the cartridge this year. I haven’t ran the frog at all. Left it empty and it’s gone from 70 to probably less than 30 I’ve done nothing different this year other than the frog We’ve tested three days in a row. I’ve done a test and my wife’s done a test just so we took the human error out.
 
This spring water was 46 and cloudy teated 50. Now it’s less than 30
You need to allow it to come to room temperature, or warm the sample bottle.

I would also follow the process here:
 

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This is kinda part two from my thread yesterday. While fight the low cya I decided to add “stabilizer” to the pool.

The problem is I grabbed the wrong package and added ph up. So today I have been adding muriatuc acid to get my crazy ph level down but acid doesn’t seem to be doing anything at all.

Any ideas? I need to lower TA anyways so acid was needed. Just wasn’t ready to do it yet
 
Consider your CYA to be 30. You need to get your FC up and keep it in range. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Your TA is just fine. Manage your pH. When it gets higher than 8, reduce it to 7.6. Over time pH will rise on its own. Lower it again when it gets over 8.
Overtime this will bring down your TA. When TA gets to 60-80, pH will tend to me fairly stable 7.8-8.0, so stop forcing it down to 7.6 at that point.
 
Consider your CYA to be 30. You need to get your FC up and keep it in range. Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Your TA is just fine. Manage your pH. When it gets higher than 8, reduce it to 7.6. Over time pH will rise on its own. Lower it again when it gets over 8.
Overtime this will bring down your TA. When TA gets to 60-80, pH will tend to me fairly stable 7.8-8.0, so stop forcing it down to 7.6 at that point.
I have pool math. We added chlorine this morning when we tested ph was holding good at 7.2 until we added ph up instead of stabilizer. Will do a full test in morning. Pool math says my my TA is not in range.
 
Pool math says my my TA is not in range.
Don't be slave to the machine, do this:

Your TA is just fine. Manage your pH. When it gets higher than 8, reduce it to 7.6. Over time pH will rise on its own. Lower it again when it gets over 8.
Overtime this will bring down your TA. When TA gets to 60-80, pH will tend to me fairly stable 7.8-8.0, so stop forcing it down to 7.6 at that point.
 
Don't be slave to the machine, do this:

Your TA is just fine. Manage your pH. When it gets higher than 8, reduce it to 7.6. Over time pH will rise on its own. Lower it again when it gets over 8.
Overtime this will bring down your TA. When TA gets to 60-80, pH will tend to me fairly stable 7.8-8.0, so stop forcing it down to 7.6 at that point.
Sounds good. I will continue to monitor
 
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