RJ60 Plus start up guidance

[Jsf721]

I am waiting for water temps to get to 60-65 to get the new SWG up and running. I am using pucks until then since I am off site. I go out 1x a week to restock pucks, test / balance chemistry and run the robot.

Once the SWG comes online, what is the correct setting to start at being I am not on site daily. I think maybe shoot high, add liquid to give the SWG time to get up to speed?

Pool chemistry will be close to perfect at the switchover.

So exact questions are:

1. Once I get to temp, what settings to leave SWG on it is an RJ60+
2. How many gallons of Chlorine to add initially? I have regular Clorox bleach and also Super Shock (Diamond Brand from Leslies)

Thanks

Jeff

 

[SJPoe]

#1 - Your pool is bigger than mine, but I typically start at about 30% and tweak from there. This early in the season, the UV-driven FC demand is fairly low, so I aim for my LC 'pre-dose' to be toward the middle of the range, expecting things to creep up.

#2 - impossible to answer - what is the FC reading to start with ? Whats the CYA ? Pool Math will give you the amount you need to add to hit a specific level.

 

[Bperry]

I am waiting for water temps to get to 60-65 to get the new SWG up and running. I am using pucks until then since I am off site. I go out 1x a week to restock pucks, test / balance chemistry and run the robot.

Once the SWG comes online, what is the correct setting to start at being I am not on site daily. I think maybe shoot high, add liquid to give the SWG time to get up to speed?

Pool chemistry will be close to perfect at the switchover.

So exact questions are:

1. Once I get to temp, what settings to leave SWG on it is an RJ60+
2. How many gallons of Chlorine to add initially? I have regular Clorox bleach and also Super Shock (Diamond Brand from Leslies)

Thanks

Jeff

Clorox bleach usually contains fabric softener like “cloromax” which you don’t want in a pool. Stay away from anything Clorox for the pool, including tablets.

Since you’ve been using pucks, better get a CYA reading before determine your chlorine requirements.

 

[Newdude]

When the time comes, post up the #s and we'll go from there.


I'll let you know what the average daily demand is 10 miles away in full sun. We'll shoot for 80% of my loss because your shade probably makes it even lower and we'll still be high.

 

[Jsf721]

#1 - Your pool is bigger than mine, but I typically start at about 30% and tweak from there. This early in the season, the UV-driven FC demand is fairly low, so I aim for my LC 'pre-dose' to be toward the middle of the range, expecting things to creep up.

#2 - impossible to answer - what is the FC reading to start with ? Whats the CYA ? Pool Math will give you the amount you need to add to hit a specific level.

Current numbers are as follows (as of last Sunday and I expect everything is pretty close to the same)

CYA 90
FC 14
CC 0
PH 7.8
Salt 3600

I don't have the ALK and CH but they were within range, not sure why I did not write them down.

So do I want my CYA to drop to do I want the FC to be protected and run the SWG at a higher percentage?

Thanks

 

[Jsf721]

When the time comes, post up the #s and we'll go from there.


I'll let you know what the average daily demand is 10 miles away in full sun. We'll shoot for 80% of my loss because your shade probably makes it even lower and we'll still be high.

Thanks Numbers posted

 

[Bperry]

Current numbers are as follows (as of last Sunday and I expect everything is pretty close to the same)

CYA 90
FC 14
CC 0
PH 7.8
Salt 3600

I don't have the ALK and CH but they were within range, not sure why I did not write them down.

So do I want my CYA to drop to do I want the FC to be protected and run the SWG at a higher percentage?

Thanks

The pH test isn’t reliable when FC is over 10ppm. That’s one of the reasons for keeping the CYA down so that you don’t need to run the FC so high.

 

[Jsf721]

Clorox bleach usually contains fabric softener like “cloromax” which you don’t want in a pool. Stay away from anything Clorox for the pool, including tablets.

Since you’ve been using pucks, better get a CYA reading before determine your chlorine requirements.

Clorox bleach usually contains fabric softener like “cloromax” which you don’t want in a pool. Stay away from anything Clorox for the pool, including tablets.

Since you’ve been using pucks, better get a CYA reading before determine your chlorine requirements.

I have 2 types of bleach Clorox and Chloro glo bleach. I’ll stop the Clorox but I think it’s just stronger bleach. Don’t see any fabric softener Lingo on label

 

[Newdude]

CYA 90

Stop the puck use. I'm losing about 1ppm a day right now and you're probably half of that. 5ppm would give you some wiggle room in case there is a extra bright day this week.

Salt 3600

What was it before adding salt ?

So do I want my CYA to drop to do I want the FC to be protected and run the SWG at a higher percentage?

90 is fine now, it will come down a little and if it doesnt, 90 won't be a benefit but it wont hurt either. I experimented with it last year and was disappointed that i couldn't tell.

If it's a wet spring you could lose 20 by the time it's SWG time.

 

[Bperry]

I have 2 types of bleach Clorox and Chloro glo bleach. I’ll stop the Clorox but I think it’s just stronger bleach. Don’t see any fabric softener Lingo on label

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I’d just go to a Home Depot or even a pool store and get normal chlorine, but those look like they’d be ok as long as they weren’t out in the heat or too old.

 

[Newdude]

I have 2 types of bleach Clorox and Chloro glo bleach. I’ll stop the Clorox but I think it’s just stronger bleach. Don’t see any fabric softener Lingo on label

'Germicidal' is typically free of all the laundry nonsense. If you need bleach in a pinch when the pool stuff is gone for 8 months, go to the cleaning aisle instead of the laundry aisle.

 

[Jsf721]

I’d just go to a Home Depot or even a pool store and get normal chlorine, but those look like they’d be ok as long as they weren’t out in the heat or too old.

I picked up 20 gallons ( 5 cases of 4/1)of the Chloro Glo one to stock up for the next few weeks I wont be able to lift. Fresh purchased last Sunday.

 

[Jsf721]

Stop the puck use. I'm losing about 1ppm a day right now and you're probably half of that. 5ppm would give you some wiggle room in case there is a extra bright day this week.

What was it before adding salt ?

90 is fine now, it will come down a little and if it doesnt, 90 won't be a benefit but it wont hurt either. I experimented with it last year and was disappointed that i couldn't tell.

If it's a wet spring you could lose 20 by the time it's SWG time.

I had a 600 PPM salt reading (3 drops) before adding salt

 

[pjt]

I have 2 types of bleach Clorox and Chloro glo bleach. I’ll stop the Clorox but I think it’s just stronger bleach. Don’t see any fabric softener Lingo on label

I picked up 20 gallons ( 5 cases of 4/1)of the Chloro Glo one to stock up for the next few weeks I wont be able to lift. Fresh purchased last Sunday.

Just get 10% liquid chlorine at Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes, etc.. You don't want the risk of any additives, just pure LC. The Chlor-Glo is ~1/2 strength at 5.25%.

 

[Newdude]

HD/ Lowes suck here. Not only is it expensive it's often old stock.

Walmart has been solid, possibly with some shelf diving like milk or yogurt. Lol.