Testing Aqua Pure Salt Cell (Is it cooked)

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j190phil

j190phil

Active member
Jun 29, 2022
41
Dallas
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Good Day TFP,

I am wondering how I can test to see if my cell is finally done (5 years old) - all my readings are in line - fc around 3 and want it to be around 5. Got it to 6 than ran overnight test no issues there - currently running 80 percent 10 hours per day and it’s not holding as well as I think it should - is there a way to know if it’s working fully ? Should I just run it at 100 percent - curious about the best plan of action moving forward to make sure it’s holding the fc each day (higher percentage more pump time?) - thanks for any recommendations - if it needs replacement what do you recommend? It is automated (nature2 cartridge is not used)image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

Jandy AquaPure No Chlorine Production, But No Error Codes

I have been a pool owner and self-maintainer for over 20 years, but we recently moved into a new house with a pool. My old equipment was Pentair with a Hayward SCG and I was very familiar with that setup. This house has all Jandy equipment, including AquaLink and a AquaPure 1400 SWG. It has...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Read through this thread to see how to test volts and amps and how to do a load test.
 
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Ok got it , so is there really a way to test it or just replace the sensor? Does no flow mean it isn’t working or just not flowing? All my filters are clean- i just read your post thank you
 
I'm just an owner, so trust the experts over me. The sensor works by heating a little metal button exposed inside the cell. The more water flow, the more heat is drawn away from the button, and the more current to the heater. The electronics in the box sense this current.

So what can cause a no flow problem?
  • Actual low flow. VSP set too low? Make sure skimmers, pump basket, are filter is clean and nothing else clogged.
  • Crust (like calcium) over the button. Water can't carry the heat away. Check by removing the sensor and looking for it. Clean gently as needed.
  • Failing heater element. Can't draw expected current. Replace sensor.
  • Sensor wiring problem. Check connections inside the box.
  • Bad electronics in the box. Least likely, but if the flow and sensor are good, this is all that's left.
 
We don't know what your daily usage rate of CL is currently, but using PoolMath's "Effects of Adding", an Aquapure 1400 is guestimated to raise FC by 2.0 if run at 80% for 10 hrs. So if yours is close to keeping up a level of 3.0 over time, it seems to be doing a bit better than predicted - or at least as good as can be expected. You might want to do a 24 hr test - shut off the swcg, test, wait 24 hrs, test, and turn back on the swcg. That would tell you current useage of CL. Using PoolMath, you could then rough in what settings might currently be needed to replace that much in a 24 hr period. (of course, use liquid to get to the target level, then count on the SWCG to counter the current losses going forward). As the season progresses, you'll need to bump things up more to compensate.
 
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Hey j190Phil, Your pool math logs haven’t been updated since last season. If you’re generating FC and it’s not holding, what have you tested your CYA ppm to be? If CYA is low, uv can be burning up your FC as fast as you’re generating. Just a thought, in fact, post up a full set of your test results.
 
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an1vrsy said:
Hey j190Phil, Your pool math logs haven’t been updated since last season. If you’re generating FC and it’s not holding, what have you tested your CYA ppm to be? If CYA is low, uv can be burning up your FC as fast as you’re generating. Just a thought, in fact, post up a full set of your test results.
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I keep my logs at home- all measurements are good-cya is 70
 

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generessler said:
I'm just an owner, so trust the experts over me. The sensor works by heating a little metal button exposed inside the cell. The more water flow, the more heat is drawn away from the button, and the more current to the heater. The electronics in the box sense this current.

So what can cause a no flow problem?
  • Actual low flow. VSP set too low? Make sure skimmers, pump basket, are filter is clean and nothing else clogged.
  • Crust (like calcium) over the button. Water can't carry the heat away. Check by removing the sensor and looking for it. Clean gently as needed.
  • Failing heater element. Can't draw expected current. Replace sensor.
  • Sensor wiring problem. Check connections inside the box.
  • Bad electronics in the box. Least likely, but if the flow and sensor are good, this is all that's left.
Click to expand...
Perfect, I’ll open and clean the sensor / all filters and baskets are clean- returns are moving well - filtration setup attached- this is the first year I’ve had an issue son that’s where the concern lies- did all the testing per the thread above and all marks come out correct except the one that details a bad sensor
 

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sande005 said:
We don't know what your daily usage rate of CL is currently, but using PoolMath's "Effects of Adding", an Aquapure 1400 is guestimated to raise FC by 2.0 if run at 80% for 10 hrs. So if yours is close to keeping up a level of 3.0 over time, it seems to be doing a bit better than predicted - or at least as good as can be expected. You might want to do a 24 hr test - shut off the swcg, test, wait 24 hrs, test, and turn back on the swcg. That would tell you current useage of CL. Using PoolMath, you could then rough in what settings might currently be needed to replace that much in a 24 hr period. (of course, use liquid to get to the target level, then count on the SWCG to counter the current losses going forward). As the season progresses, you'll need to bump things up more to compensate.
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
Was also wondering - can I replace this fusion soft with this
 

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JamesW said:
Yes.
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Appreciate all the help, it’s late- last question since there are no error codes than based on all the items and assistance and my testing it’s most likely the sensor; if cleaning it doesnt work then just replace it- correct?
 
How are you testing? The CL is oddly precise for the 0-5 scale of the Poolmaster test kit you cite in your signature. And the Poolmaster kit doesn't include a CYA or a CH test. Would hate to see incorrect advice given due to pool store testing, etc.
 

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