Just overwhelmed

[proavia]

Can’t fit anything else on there. It won’t let me.

Put it all on the same line, like mine. If it exceeds the line length, it will automatically wrap to the next line.

Holding it up to a white plate gives a different color than a white screen on my phone. Then holding it a few inches away from the plate is a different color then against the plate, due to shadows. I think it’s below 8. Maybe 7.8 or 7.9….or 15, ugh.

Don't hold it up against a white plate. Use the white plate as a background with plenty of space for light to get between the block and plate. Just test consistently.
Don't make it harder than it needs to be. Be methodical and do it the same each time. Some also find it helpful to block out all colors on the block except the one single color you are trying to compare to. So let's say you want to compare it to 7.8 - block all other colors except 7.8. If it doesn't look close to 7.8, choose another number, say 7.5. Continue until you find the match point.

Stay out of the pool store. Going there for testing will only overwhelm you more.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Yeah..I have two stores less than a mile from my house. One I have been to a few times (results were always close here) and one I have never been too. The usual one was calibrating the machine (Leslie's) but the manager manually tested my PH and said it is 7.7...if that is right.

Went home and got a fresh sample to try the new place. Looked promising when I went in, as they didn't use a machine but a test kit. However, I am not sure the person knew what they were doing, or maybe I don't, but their numbers were pretty far off from mine. He said the PH was 8, TA 100 (I can easily see mine was 70 this morning) Stabilizer - 100 (my test a few days ago was 70 - 80). He said they only test chlorine to 10 and mine was at least 10.

So....yeah. Second place threw me off a bit since they were using taylor testing, but got different results from me. Wish the first store was available. Really just wanted an idea of what they see to know if I am not completely off on what I see.

So on PH - is the order basically, Yellow > Orange > Pink > Purple? Try to stay in Orange/Pink?

Is my PH hard to read because my FC is over 10?

 

[jmgossman]

I too am a person that likes things as exact as possible. I am always aiming for the middle of the range! If the chart says 50-70, I'm shooting for 60. I learned very quickly youwill drive yourself absolutlely crazy if you are aiming for perfection in your pool numbers! Its hard for my OCD brain, but you just have to get it in the range, not perfect! Stick with the advice and numbers on here, ditch the pool supply stores and even your pool service. I found TFP back in June and havent stepped foot in the pool store since. My water is better than it ever was previously!

 

[Squatting Hen]

Yeah, the only test I struggle with is the PH one. So I bought that C600 PH tester from TFTest Kits and that seems to be reading a little high. It says 8.16.

From my tests (and using the acid demand test) I am seeing more 7.7 - 7.8.

Was really hoping that tester would help me on knowing the colors and future results.

 

[Bperry]

So on PH - is the order basically, Yellow > Orange > Pink > Purple? Try to stay in Orange/Pink?

Is my PH hard to read because my FC is over 10?

Yes for both, you don’t even want to do the pH test if the FC is over 10ppm. As long as the pH is above 7.0 and less than 8.2, it’s fine. Don’t worry about the exactness of the number. Close enough is fine.

 

[Newdude]

Take a thumb from each hand and block off above and below one value. I find yes/no way easier than best of three.

For example :

More pink than 7.8



Not quite purple enough for 8.2




Call it wherever in the middle you feel is best. If you dose a couple days early or late, Ph is a long term concern and it's all good.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Okay. Yeah, was really hoping that tester would take some of the guesswork out of it.

In pool math, when my CSI is off, it doesn’t give any recommendations on how to fix it. I can click into it, and adjust numbers to see it change. The biggest item that changes it is the TA. Mine is 70. If I move it to 100 (which I read is high) my CSI is almost perfect.

 

[Bperry]

Okay. Yeah, was really hoping that tester would take some of the guesswork out of it.

In pool math, when my CSI is off, it doesn’t give any recommendations on how to fix it. I can click into it, and adjust numbers to see it change. The biggest item that changes it is the TA. Mine is 70. If I move it to 100 (which I read is high) my CSI is almost perfect.

Temperature and pH affect CSI the most. CSI is a long term thing to keep an eye on and not something that needs to be micromanaged. If it gets over 0.3, then tweak some things. If it gets lower than -0.6, then tweak some other things…slowly.

 

[Newdude]

Yeah, was really hoping that tester would take some of the guesswork out of it.

My guess would have been closer to 8.2, so 8.1. At the end of the day, both me and the meter are close enough to know it's time to dose. And again, if you're some days early or late, no biggie.

In pool math, when my CSI is off, it doesn’t give any recommendations on how to fix it.

There are many many combos that show the same CSI so there are too many ways to fix it.

If I move it to 100 (which I read is high) my CSI is almost perfect.

Using the #s you posted earlier, except 80 CYA (always round up) and 8.1 Ph, I get -0.05 at 90 degrees. (Guessing).

Lowering the Ph to 7.8 puts CSI at -0.23. Then raising the CH to 400 drops it to -0.02.

What was the fill water CH ? We are many pages deep.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Temperature and pH affect CSI the most. CSI is a long term thing to keep an eye on and not something that needs to be micromanaged. If it gets over 0.3, then tweak some things. If it gets lower than -0.6, then tweak some other things…slowly.

Thanks. I can’t really change the temperature, and the CSI only gets better with the PH if I increase the already highish ph. Alkalinity seems to be a large factor on mine, which is why I was wondering if it is using the adjusted alkalinity in the background. Something I can’t see the number on, but also isn’t recommending me to increase it.

 

[Squatting Hen]

My guess would have been closer to 8.2, so 8.1. At the end of the day, both me and the meter are close enough to know it's time to dose. And again, if you're some days early or late, no biggie.


There are many many combos that show the same CSI so there are too many ways to fix it.

Using the #s you posted earlier, except 80 CYA (always round up) and 8.1 Ph, I get -0.05 at 90 degrees. (Guessing).

Lowering the Ph to 7.8 puts CSI at -0.23. Then raising the CH to 400 drops it to -0.02.

What was the fill water CH ? We are many pages deep.

Fill water CH was low, 100 if I recall. Pool temp is 78 right now. I added some CH today, so that will bring it up to maybe 280.

I really thought my ph was about 7.7 - 7.8 after doing more tests indoors, using 4 drops, and caring a plate around the house looking for optimal lighting…..

 

[Newdude]

I really thought my ph was about 7.7 - 7.8 after doing more tests indoors, using 4 drops, and caring a plate around the house looking for optimal lighting…..

Try the thumb thing.

Fill water CH was low, 100 if I recall.

Where are you in Texas ? There's like 9 climates there.

If you get 2+ ft of rain a year, it'll help balance the evaporation so you won't fill as often, making CH rise from the fill water less of an issue. It's already not a huge issue, but it may even be a non issue.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Try the thumb thing.

Where are you in Texas ? There's like 9 climates there.

If you get 2+ ft of rain a year, it'll help balance the evaporation so you won't fill as often, making CH rise from the fill water less of an issue. It's already not a huge issue, but it may even be a non issue.

North Dallas area. Pool auto fills so I never have to touch it.
I added 1 cup or so of muratic acid and my PH looks 7.6 - 7.7 now. So much easier to see the colors in that range. 7.8 and up is just too difficult.

 

[Newdude]

North Dallas area.

Sweet. You get 80 days of rain on average for 36 and change inches annually.

You won't need to fill often so the moderately low CH fill water matters even less.

If you find your CSI is particularly out of range, come post up the #s and it's likely you can add more CH to fix it. Remember earlier we solely weren't raising it to see how it behaved first. We still are, but have a backup option if needed.

Raising the TA to 100 will quicken the Ph rise, making you look at the pinks you don't like more often. Let's avoid that one.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Sweet. You get 80 days of rain on average for 36 and change inches annually.

You won't need to fill often so the moderately low CH fill water matters even less.

If you find your CSI is particularly out of range, come post up the #s and it's likely you can add more CH to fix it. Remember earlier we solely weren't raising it to see how it behaved first. We still are, but have a backup option if needed.

Raising the TA to 100 will quicken the Ph rise, making you look at the pinks you don't like more often. Let's avoid that one.

Yeah, those higher colors are awful. They need to make it where the colors are yellow, blue, red, clear and black. Scrap these pinks and reds. Lol

That 4lb of CH won’t do much but it will rise a little.

Seriously, thanks everyone for all your help. I promise I ain’t done asking things, but I appreciate you all.

Guess worse case, if I can’t tell on my ph….add a cup or so of MA. Seems that’s working for me.

 

[Newdude]

You're only penance for dosing early is that next time comes earlier too. Maybe hitting a pink you can't decipher should be your time to dose. That's the best thing about acceptable ranges, everybody can find how it works best for them, and nobody is wrong.

Seriously, thanks everyone for all your help.

We got you.

We were all there once and it sucked. We literally show up everyday to help it suck less for others.

 

[Squatting Hen]

You're only penance for dosing early is that next time comes earlier too. Maybe hitting a pink you can't decipher should be your time to dose. That's the best thing about acceptable ranges, everybody can find how it works best for them, and nobody is wrong.

We got you.

We were all there once and it sucked. We literally show up everyday to help it suck less for others.

What do you mean about dosing early? Should I be waiting for a specific time or time between doses?

Yeah, overall, my CSI calculation is just odd. Even if everything is in line, it is outside the range it seems. PH at 7.8 or higher shows it’s good, and like I said, increasing the TA to levels too high, balance the CSI. Feels like that adjusted TA is playing a role with the CSI number. Going to test that on another app…just curious.

Edit: screenshots between the two. Same numbers basically same CSI. The difference is, the one app says the adjusted TA is low and causing the CSI to be out of balance.

 

[Newdude]

What do you mean about dosing early? Should I be waiting for a specific time or time between doses?

Like if you dosed at 7.8 when you could have waited a bit longer. No harm done. Dosing a few days late might be at 8.3. Also no harm done from the short term.

Going to test that on another app…just curious.

The other app probably uses the standard issue 80 to 120 which assumes you use pucks. Actually I don't think they know that because clearly, the advice doesn't change when you don't use pucks.

 

[Squatting Hen]

Like if you dosed at 7.8 when you could have waited a bit longer. No harm done. Dosing a few days late might be at 8.3. Also no harm done from the short term.

The other app probably uses the standard issue 80 to 120 which assumes you use pucks. Actually I don't think they know that because clearly, the advice doesn't change when you don't use pucks.

The other app does ask for swg info and what my current output percentage is set to.

The only difference between the two is the visible TA adjustment on the one, and the suggestion to raise it. Pool math doesn’t give a suggestion to help the CSI, but must be used the adjusted TA in the calculation just not displaying it for us to see.

 

[johnnydot]

I have had a pool about three years now, bought a house that came with one. Had to replace the filter, booster pump, 280, and main pump and salt cell over the 3 years. All seem to be working okay now.

For some reason I am just overwhelmed and frustrated with the chemicals. I have used a few different pool people over the years and also have tried testing the chemicals myself with the K2006 fast and the salt test kit. I can test just fine, it’s knowing what to do next is where my mind goes haywire.

I think the most challenging part is all the variations of suggested ranges. My mind just doesn’t work well that way. TFP has a range, Pooli app has a range….I know….Leslies has a range….they are all different. Just difficult to know what to use. Obviously I have learned a lot from this site, and the getting started articles, but still, I like things to be exact, and seeing all the variations of recommend ranges just throws me off.

Pool is clear and clean, no issues there. But I would like to drop my pool people and save the $75 a month. They come every two weeks now, just chemicals only and take care of all the cleaning.

I have had a pool for 50 years and have done everything myself and had perfect results. Before I switched to salt about 12 years ago, I was using the stabilized chlorine tablets that I would load in an adjustable feeder connected to the return jet. With that system, every once in a while in the heat of the summer I would have to slam the pool. Now with the salt, I have never had to slam it or deal with algae. The only thing I do when I first open it in the late spring is add a couple of gallons of bleach and that holds it until the salt system catches up. The important items are the salt levels, cya and the ph. Other than that I do not worry about anything else. I use the Taylor test kit and an electronic dip in meter for the salt levels.