Aquatrol RJ issues after changing cell

[C0d3Sp4c3]

Sound like a good plan. Make sure they test the cell in both polarities.
In the meantime, keep the algae at bay. Use liquid Chlorine.

 

[robwcormack]

Thanks for the response, much appreciated.
It looks like the controller is not getting feedback from the cell in one of the polarities. It happened to me with one of my old T-cell but not completely dead as in no conductivity at all.
Before we look into the mainboard issue, can you locate and test the old cell? And is it possible for you to take the cell to a pool store for testing? If the cell fails the test then perhaps you call in for the warranty.

Spoke to Hayward tech support and they are saying the main board needs to be replaced. That the cell test is a pass or fail test and if I am getting current on one polarity and getting a higher chlorine reading out of the return the cell is working so that pretty much would rule that out. Does that make sense? Do you suggest I still get the cell tested? Do I really have to replace the whole board or can we try to diagnose and fix it?

 

[TinFoilHat]

Just replace the board as they told you because the cell is working.

 

[robwcormack]

Sound like a good plan. Make sure they test the cell in both polarities.
In the meantime, keep the algae at bay. Use liquid Chlorine.

I had called Hayward tech to see where I could get it tested and they had done the troubleshooting I mentioned before but before spending a bunch of money on a board I went to a pool place nearby they said could test it and went ahead and had it tested. They said they tested it in both polarities and it was definitely producing on both. So on to the board. Definitely just replace or is it worth trying to diagnose and fix this one? Seems like maybe it could be a bad solder or bad relay??

 

[robwcormack]

Just replace the board as they told you because the cell is working.

Just saw ur reply on 2nd page. you don’t think it’s worth trying to diagnose my existing board?

 

[robwcormack]

Here are the solder joints on the K1 & K2. Also on one of the capacitors. Could this be the issue? Sorry they’re a little blurry. My phone doesn’t do macro shots very well

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

I had called Hayward tech to see where I could get it tested and they had done the troubleshooting I mentioned before but before spending a bunch of money on a board I went to a pool place nearby they said could test it and went ahead and had it tested. They said they tested it in both polarities and it was definitely producing on both. So on to the board. Definitely just replace or is it worth trying to diagnose and fix this one? Seems like maybe it could be a bad solder or bad relay??

Sorry for the delay. Do you have a multimeter and are comfortable troubleshooting the controller as shown in the video below?
Depending on which polarity is missing, the schematic diagram below should help identify which relay could be the culprit and maybe it's just a cold solder. Otherwise, be prepared to dig deeper.
Let us know.