I have a Hayward Aquatrol RJ system and it originally came with a T-CELL-5. After 6.5 years it was time to replace so I purchased the GLX-CELL-5 which is supposed to be the same cell and require no settings changes or anything in the system. My salt level is 3100, CYA is 70-75, TA is 65-70, PH is 7.2. It’s an above ground pool(round) 24’x54”. I just had the liner replaced, replaced the filter cartridge, got new water and got the levels all as mentioned above. The FC was reading 0 after running on super chlorinate for several hours and 70% for a couple days. I even turned it on super chlorinate and tested water straight from the return jet and it was 0. I added enough liquid chlorine night before last to get it up to 8 according to pool math. With CYA at the level it’s at and the salt cell set at 70% and nobody getting in the pool I would have thought the level would stay pretty darn close to 8, but I just tested it and the FC was down to 4.6 according to FAS-DPD test. I have verified it is installed correctly. For the chlorine to drop that much in 36 hours or less, I would say the salt cell isn’t producing any chlorine. Any suggestions? Seller of cell said they’ve never had a defective cell out of the box so they suggested to contact Hayward for troubleshooting to make sure it’s not something else because they’re afraid if they send me a replacement I’ll just have the same problem. Hayward would only send me a useless troubleshooting guide which was no help at all.
Aquatrol RJ issues after changing cell
- Thread starter robwcormack
- Start date
For that CYA level, assuming it's correctly measured, your FC goal is 5-10 ppm so you should add enough liquid chlorine to get FC up to close to 10. Do that just after dark and let the filter run for 30 mins. Then turn off the salt cell but leave the pump running overnight for an OCLT overnight chlorine loss test. Test FC before sun hits the pool the next morning and this will tell you if you have unseen algae eating up your chlorine. If it's not then you just need to get your FC up to the high end of the proper range and then set the cell for maybe 60% to see if it can keep up. The cell is only for maintaining your FC, not for creating it. If it can't maintain the FC then you have to turn it up more and with a small cell, albeit in a small pool, you may be close to maxing it out so it can keep up.
Are your green lights lite up on the Aquatrol and what are the display readings for the cell voltage and cell current?
Green lights are lit up. I know if I hit the diagnostic button the display shows different things but I don’t really know what’s what except the salt level.
each push of the display button will show the following : pool temp, cell voltage when generating 22-26 volts, cell current when generating about 2.5 - 4 amps (if reading 0 no chlorine is being generated) desired output in percentage and then the salt reading and product and revision. If you are getting the proper current and voltage reading the cell should be generating. If the current reading is 0 then you have a problem. A bad thermistor might be the cause. Bad thermistors are a chronic problem on the older units. I had to replace them twice on my Aquatol.
Ok so here’s what I got:
Cell on auto, pump on:
3100
87
30.5
0.00
63P
-0
AL-7
r1.47
Also did it with cell turned to off, pump on. Then did it again unplugging cell from aquatrol and then reconnecting and turning back to auto. Both these gave nearly identical results as above with only difference being that the 30.5 was down to 30.3 on both of these attempts.
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Rattus Suffocatus
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- Jun 5, 2019
- 1,713
- Pool Size
- 14000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool Universal40
I was going to add, "Do you see any bubbles?" but with the Amp reading at zero, the cell isn't getting any current flow through it so it's not producing chlorine. The thermistor in the control unit is suspect like already stated.
I found this on another thread. I don’t know what it means by behaving like a PTC and don’t see the other thread referred to on that, but based on my readings this sounds like the thermistor should be good unless I’m completely misunderstanding it. Granted I was reading 30.5 volts rather than 31. I don’t know enough about this stuff to know if that’s a huge difference but it doesn’t seem like it. See below
“The fact that you read 31 Volts on the display is indicative that the Caps are charged via thermistor. This indicates that the thermistor is good. Unless it behaves like a PTC as claimed on the other thread. The voltage reading on the display is a mirror of the voltage passing through the load side of the Thermistor. And it is normal for the 31 volts reading on the display to go down depending on the cell type when either K1 or K2 relay is energized. If the cell reports did not satisfy the microcontroller, then it will instruct the relay to de-energize via U5 disconnecting power to the cell. Hence, chlorine production is suspended (0 amp, -0 salinity).”
“The fact that you read 31 Volts on the display is indicative that the Caps are charged via thermistor. This indicates that the thermistor is good. Unless it behaves like a PTC as claimed on the other thread. The voltage reading on the display is a mirror of the voltage passing through the load side of the Thermistor. And it is normal for the 31 volts reading on the display to go down depending on the cell type when either K1 or K2 relay is energized. If the cell reports did not satisfy the microcontroller, then it will instruct the relay to de-energize via U5 disconnecting power to the cell. Hence, chlorine production is suspended (0 amp, -0 salinity).”
With the 30 on the voltage and 0 on the current, the cell is not producing. Try unpluging the connector from the cell to the control box and repluging it making sure it is seated. That happened to mine once , plug was not seated all the way - good luck!
Tried that. That was the third attempt. I wish that would’ve worked. I was hoping but was met with disappointment.
Sorry I could not help you more but that's about the limit of my knowledge.
The thermistor on the Aquatrol build r1.47 is not likely to go bad unless the relay K4 fails.
It looks like the controller is not detecting the presence of the cell as in "not conducting". Try to run the diagnostics in both polarities.
If the problem persists, try to connect the old cell and run the diagnostics. Post all the numbers.
It looks like the controller is not detecting the presence of the cell as in "not conducting". Try to run the diagnostics in both polarities.
If the problem persists, try to connect the old cell and run the diagnostics. Post all the numbers.
I’m not familiar with running the diagnostics in both polarities. What’s the best way to do that? Also not sure I kept the old salt cell. Gonna have to check and see
The following is a copy and paste from TFP experts:
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:
- Report all diagnostic readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
Cell Diagnostics.
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:- Default salt display
- Pool temp
- Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
- Cell current
- Desired output (% of the knob)
- Instant salinity
- Product name
- Software revision (r.XX)
Ok, noticed the instant salinity was staying at -0. I tried resetting that since I had not done that ever before and Now that I had replaced the liner annd new water I figured that needed to be done and it did nothing.
so when I changed polarity it clicked after a few seconds and the cell started working. I got voltage of 26.2-26.3 and amps fluctuating slightly from 4.44 starting off down gradually to 4.18 and then it went back up to 4.23. Seemed to settle at 4.19. Also the instant salinity started getting a reading and initially matched the average of 3100 and then went down after a couple hours to 2700. Haven’t checked since then.
After letting it run about 5 minutes or so I tested FC in water I got from blasting out of the return jet, and tested some more from opposite side of the pool. The FC next to the return jet was 6 and across the pool was 4.5, so obviously the cell is producing chlorine. I’m guessing that means the issue is/was not with the cell??
What’s next? Should I change polarity again and see if it stops working? Does this mean I have to replace the PCB board all together or is there a way to fix this one and not drop $400+ on a new board?
Thanks so much for everyone’s help. This mess is stressful
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As long as it keeps working, I would not mess with it any further.
@OP, please help us to help you better.
First off, how are you testing the salt level in your water?
Move the in-house timer switch to the ON position.
Run the diagnostics and fill in the following:
Step 1. Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
If the instant salinity reading is well below the actual salt level and declines rapidly;
First off, how are you testing the salt level in your water?
Move the in-house timer switch to the ON position.
Run the diagnostics and fill in the following:
Step 1. Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Default salt display =
- Pool temp =
- Cell Voltage =
- Cell current =
- Desired output =
- Instant salinity = -
- Product name =
- Software revision =
- Default salt display =
- Pool temp =
- Cell Voltage =
- Cell current =
- Desired output =
- Instant salinity = -
- Product name =
- Software revision =
- Default salt display =
- Pool temp =
- Cell Voltage =
- Cell current =
- Desired output =
- Instant salinity = -
- Product name =
- Software revision =
If the instant salinity reading is well below the actual salt level and declines rapidly;
- Inspect the cell for dirt or excessive calcium build-up
- The precious coating on the plate is depleted causing the cell to underperform.
See above answers. Also I switched the polarity again after I finished getting these readings so the cell would run for the 180 min at least. I went back out about 5 min later to take a pic of the cell in case you need any info off that and while out I checked the instant salinity again and it had gone down to 3000.
I’ve attached a pic of the cell info and a pic of the sticker in the box.
Attachments
Thanks for the response, much appreciated.
It looks like the controller is not getting feedback from the cell in one of the polarities. It happened to me with one of my old T-cell but not completely dead as in no conductivity at all.
Before we look into the mainboard issue, can you locate and test the old cell? And is it possible for you to take the cell to a pool store for testing? If the cell fails the test then perhaps you call in for the warranty.
It looks like the controller is not getting feedback from the cell in one of the polarities. It happened to me with one of my old T-cell but not completely dead as in no conductivity at all.
Before we look into the mainboard issue, can you locate and test the old cell? And is it possible for you to take the cell to a pool store for testing? If the cell fails the test then perhaps you call in for the warranty.
I will have to see if any pool stores around here have a Hayward cell tester. Maybe I can take it this weekend. I think I threw away the old one which is totally unlike me.