Another post about bonding Intex pools and upgraded equipment

DarwinAward

Member
Jul 17, 2024
7
West Central Kentucky
Pool Size
12500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello, all. I'm brand spanking new, so please be gentle, lol.

Bought an Intex Ultra XTR 24' pool. The ONLY place to put it in my yard was an existing asphalt basketball pad. It's about 2 1/2 inches or so out of level. Options were to dig it all up or level it out. The same financial situation that changed our plans from a permanent AGP to an Intex made removal too costly. But I thought hey, it's a great solid base, and I won't have to worry about sinking!

Cue the questionable decisions.

After researching, I decided to go with a 3/8" layer of rubber padding, followed by a thin layer of XPS foam. I also used the XPS to "shim" the pool floor to as level as I could get it, then used pavers of slightly different heights under the legs. That worked pretty well! We also purchased a Hayward thru-wall wide mouth skimmer, a 150 ft cartridge filter, and a variable speed pump. I've never had good luck with the Intex pumps and filters.

I cut a larger hole for the suction port and installed a different port, in addition to the skimmer. I purchased an extra return port and enlarged the hole for that, as well.

But then I got to thinking. Even though an Intex doesn't traditionally get bonded, I've changed the situation, haven't I? I fell down the rabbit hole trying to figure out how to make everything safe, but there seemed to be no strong concensus, and I've added a couple layers of complications, so I thought I'd just ask:

What is my best bet? There is asphalt around and under the pool. I separated the pool from the ground with the padding, though the vinyl already separates it, in a way. How can I bond and ground everything? If I connect to four sections of the pool, they're all separated by plastic. If I do them all, will all the screw holes weaken the frame? Is it a good idea to run the bond wire over asphalt? Could I put rocks over it to make it safe? At most points, the ground is more than 18"-24" away from the pool. How do I properly ground the pump? Thank you for reading my essay, and for any information.
 
At a minimum, I'd ensure anything electrical (pump, heater etc) is connected via a GFCI outlet or breaker. As for bonding, I couldn't find specifics for that pool, but hopefully one of the better electrical guys here will chime in with some thoughts.

If you need to run a cable across the asphalt, you can get special rubber channels that the cord/error can run in to avoid accidental damage, but they are only intended as temporary solutions.

If this is a more permanent setup, seriously consider consulting a licensed local electrician who can advise on local code requirements for your specific area.
 
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At a minimum, I'd ensure anything electrical (pump, heater etc) is connected via a GFCI outlet or breaker. As for bonding, I couldn't find specifics for that pool, but hopefully one of the better electrical guys here will chime in with some thoughts.

If you need to run a cable across the asphalt, you can get special rubber channels that the cord/error can run in to avoid accidental damage, but they are only intended as temporary solutions.

If this is a more permanent setup, seriously consider consulting a licensed local electrician who can advise on local code requirements for your specific area.
I appreciate your input. It's going to gfci.

Have you seen this article?

That was helpful, thank you. It left a couple things unresolved, but answered others. If I'm reading correctly, I think I need to chip away the asphalt that is more than 18"-24 from the pool in order to bury a copper halo, irregardless of if I can connect to the pool (what to do with the top rails that would still be isolated is an unanswered question). My three prong pump motor is grounded by being properly plugged in. My steps are resin, there's nothing else within 5' of the pool. Then I need a bonding plate for the skimmer to bond the water, as the pool itself is non-conductive. Am I missing anything?
 
My three prong pump motor is grounded by being properly plugged in
Is it a factory plug ? IIRC that's the deciding factor on if the pool needs to be bonded as a traditional pool, or it's considered a temporary pool. It would be far easier to find a larger pump that still satisfied the temporary pool definition.

It it's a traditional hard wired pump, then every piece of the frame needs to be bonded and a halo installed. Adding a plug to a hard wired pump doesn't change the definition.
Is it a good idea to run the bond wire over asphalt?
It needs to be in contact with the earth approx 6 inches below grade.
the ground is more than 18"-24" away from the pool.
That is likely ok for functional purposes. You will need to check local codes if they require a specific maximum distance. They wanted mine buried about 6 inches from the pool wall, I don't know what my max was.
 
Is it a factory plug ?
Yes, it comes that way from the factory. My primary concern is safety, as there are no requirements for temporary pools, but my kids will be in that water. I'm trying to figure out if a halo will serve its purpose in my particular situation. Would it be advisable to at least bond the water at the skimmer? I'm still not sure what to do about the uprights, as the plastic T connectors at the top leave the top rails isolated from one another.
 
Yes, it comes that way from the factory.
Ok so there's your answer. It's a temporary pool pump. Double check the local codes but you should be good.
My primary concern is safety, as there are no requirements for temporary pools, but my kids will be in that water
If you upgraded to traditional pool equipment, then you'd need to follow those codes. Otherwise, bonding every piece of every intex style pool would be a thing.
I'm still not sure what to do about the uprights, as the plastic T connectors at the top leave the top rails isolated from one another.
Each piece, including each toprail would need to be bonded as they are independent. Traditional above grounds are bolted together at all the connection points so bonding any part covers most of it. They'd need one to the frame, one to the wall and one to the water.
 
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