Questions on testing and the need to SLAM

[schmutzler03]

Hi,
I got my Taylor K-2006C and Taylor Salt kits this week and have been learning the testing procedures after using a standard test kit and the pool store in the past. This morning I tested my water and also had it tested at the pool store (which is pretty decent compared to many):

My test showed -
FC 5.5
*CC 0.5 or 1
*PH 7.8 or 8
TA 100
CYA 70
Salt 2800
Temp 68 degrees

Theirs showed -
FC 4
TC 4
PH 7.4
TA 90
CYA 50
Salt 2930
They said everything was good, but to just up the salt with 1 bag, which I intended to do anyways.

1. I was going to SLAM my pool Monday based on getting a FC level of 1.5 but was confused when I did an OCLT and the Chlorine only went down 1ppm. I was under the impression that if I had algae I'd see a more significant loss overnight? I bought the necessary chlorine, but have held off until I could get some more feedback on both my questions. Don't want to needlessly dump chemicals into the pool.

*2. Also, as shown in my results, when the Taylor kit says the liquid should turn clear and I'm adding drops, it will often turn clear enough that I'd call it clear (first # shown), but if I'm super particular it may be just a tad "clearer" with one more drop (second # shown). Should I go with the very particular 2nd reading? I've noticed this discrepancy can make a big difference in what I'd do next (eg: wether or not my CC is too high).
Thanks for helping me as I learn how to best care for our pool! I included a photo of the pool water from this morning.

 

[Texas Splash]

I was under the impression that if I had algae I'd see a more significant loss overnight?

Sometimes, not not always the case. It's good you passed, but still something to watch. Since you have some extra liquid chlorine, it wouldn't hurt to increase the by 2-3 ppm just for a little extra love after the low number previously.

Should I go with the very particular 2nd reading?

If you are referring to the FC test, it should be totally clear. For the pH, 5 drops of red and match it as best as you can. I don't care fo that test much.

Ignore the pool store numbers. That was the "old you". Now YOU are in control. Your testing will be more accurate 99.9% of the time. Good job.

 

[Bperry]

noticed this discrepancy can make a big difference in what I'd do next (eg: wether or not my FC is too high).

Its really hard for you to be too high, but really easy to be too low. It’s safe to swim all the way up to slam level so if you’re only one or two ppm above the normal chlorine level, it’s totally fine. And that extra drop is only 0.5 ppm difference.

 

[schmutzler03]

Its really hard for you to be too high, but really easy to be too low. It’s safe to swim all the way up to slam level so if you’re only one or two ppm above the normal chlorine level, it’s totally fine. And that extra drop is only 0.5 ppm difference.

Whoops. I meant 1 drop makes a difference as to if my CC is too high. My bad! So I should err on the side of being pretty particular on the water being absolutely clear before I read the CC result it sounds like?

 

[Bperry]

Whoops. I meant 1 drop makes a difference as to if my CC is too high. My bad! So I should err on the side of being pretty particular on the water being absolutely clear before I read the CC result it sounds like?

Yep. SLAM continues until the water is clear no matter what the CC is.

 

[schmutzler03]

Yep. SLAM continues until the water is clear no matter what the CC is.

The pool itself looks completely clear as far as this newbie can tell. I posted a photo above.
My initial question referred to the clarity of the test sample water when you add reagent drops to read the CC. The water goes from pink to "clear" after 1 drop, but if I really stare at it while looking at it in sunlight and facing the north (as reccomended by Taylor), I think I see the faintest pink tinge still, requiring a 2nd drop. Which makes me believe the CC is really a 1, not a 0.5. I'm trying to hear from more experienced testers if I need to be that particular.

 

[Bperry]

The pool itself looks completely clear as far as this newbie can tell. I posted a photo above.
My initial question referred to the clarity of the test sample water when you add reagent drops to read the CC. The water goes from pink to "clear" after 1 drop, but if I really stare at it while looking at it in sunlight and facing the north (as reccomended by Taylor), I think I see the faintest pink tinge still, requiring a 2nd drop. Which makes me believe the CC is really a 1, not a 0.5. I'm trying to hear from more experienced testers if I need to be that particular.

If the second drop makes a noticable change then it counts.

 

[schmutzler03]

So I started the SLAM process this morning. My FC was at 5, CC at 1.5, CYA at 70, so the calculator suggested 4.3 gallons of 12.5% chlorine to get to my target of 28ppm FC . I added 4 gallons, let it circulate for 45 min and my FC now reads 33 and CC 1. I need to maintain at least 28ppm of FC until I meet the 3 standards in the SLAM process, correct? So there is a chance this may only take a day?
Also, should I turn off my SWG during SLAM?

 

[bobloblaw42]

Turn your SWG off for OCLT (1 of 3 standards) but you can leave on during the day.

 

[schmutzler03]

Turn your SWG off for OCLT (1 of 3 standards) but you can leave on during the day.

Thanks!

 

[duraleigh]

SWG should be off for SLAM process. and, yes, it may take as little as one day but be thorough. Biggest mistake on this forum is for pool owners to short cut the SLAM process

 

[Bperry]

45 min and my FC now reads 33 and CC 1. I need to maintain at least 28ppm of FC until I meet the 3 standards in the SLAM process, correct?

Not quite. You dont overshoot the 28ppm purposefully, you just add enough to hit 28ppm and then check again later and add more to bring it back up to 28ppm if it went down. Going over 28ppm will tend to waste more chlorine to the sun so just attempt to keep it right at 28ppm. A little bit over is ok but dont go crazy with it.

 

[schmutzler03]

Not quite. You dont overshoot the 28ppm purposefully, you just add enough to hit 28ppm and then check again later and add more to bring it back up to 28ppm if it went down. Going over 28ppm will tend to waste more chlorine to the sun so just attempt to keep it right at 28ppm. A little bit over is ok but dont go crazy with it.

Gotcha. So I had it at 33 unintentionally, and when I checked FC at the 4 hour mark it was down to 19. So I upped it as close to 28 as I could again (It ended up at 30). The CC seems to be increasing as we've progressed with the SLAM. IS that normal? Should I clean out the test tube with bleach between tests?

 

[Bperry]

Gotcha. So I had it at 33 unintentionally, and when I checked FC at the 4 hour mark it was down to 19. So I upped it as close to 28 as I could again (It ended up at 30). The CC seems to be increasing as we've progressed with the SLAM. IS that normal? Should I clean out the test tube with bleach between tests?

CC increases when chlorine is doing its job.
Just rinse the tube with water.

 

[schmutzler03]

CC increases when chlorine is doing its job.

Thanks. I was hoping that's what was happening.