First Time Pool Owner in Acadiana

bearmark

New member
May 15, 2024
4
Opelousas, LA
Pool Size
34000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I just moved to Acadiana (south central Louisiana) and purchased a 5 acre property with an existing pool... 40' x 20' kidney-shaped, in-ground, gunite pool with a 10' deep end. I've calculated the volume to be 34K gallons. When I arrived last month, it was in full algae bloom due to a pump outage after a storm that occurred just a week before I arrived. The chlorinator was also empty. The pump was easily started up after resetting breaker, so I cleaned out the baskets, backwashed the filter and started to work on cleaning things up. Based on guidance from the local pool store, I reloaded TriChlor pucks into the chlorinator, used algaecide for a few days, shocked with 56% Cal-Hypo every day along with regular brushing and backwashing. It was an expensive and frustrating experience, but I've finally achieved a clear, sparkling pool after 2-3 weeks of persistence.

At the tail-end of this experience, I was introduced to TFP by my brother, a long-time pool-owner. He had actually given me the information right at the beginning, but I was so overwhelmed with moving/unpacking that I no time for research. I wish that I had started here! My test results look like this along with some history and adjustments:
  • Free Chlorine: 1.5 ppm as of this morning (highest I've achieved for a morning reading yet)
    • PM is telling me to add over 2 gallons of 10% Liquid Chlorine every day
  • Combined Chlorine: 0
  • pH: 7.8
    • Started out at 6.8 and , but finally resorted to adding Borax
  • Total Alkalinity: 120 ppm (PM target is 70 ppm)
    • Started at 140 ppm and tried using spa pump and blower to aerate for several hours per day to lower reading, but progress has been slow. Is there a better way to achieve good aeration?
  • Stabilizer/CYA: 70 ppm (PM target is 45 ppm)
    • Started at 150 ppm and achieved some improvement with water exchange during a brief drought. Also, turned off the auto-chlorinator and switch from Cal-Hypo to Liquid Chlorine.
  • Calcium Hardness: 375 ppm (PM target is 450 ppm)
    • I started out at 200 and have added 4-12 lbs Chlorox Calcium Increaser every day to bring that up a bit at a time
  • CSI: Averaging -0.04 (+0.69/-1.1)
Based on my Pool Schooling, I'm focusing on bringing up the Calcium Hardness while keeping the Chlorine and pH on target. I've only achieved an FC reading above zero for a couple of days now. My plan is to bring TA and CYA down, but that seems to be a slow process.

I'm open to any suggestions/guidance to get everything stable.
 
    • Started at 140 ppm and tried using spa pump and blower to aerate for several hours per day to lower reading, but progress has been slow. Is there a better way to achieve good aeration?
It is a process. The trick is to make as many small bubbles as possible. Aeration is the best way, but you can speed it up by lowering your pH to 7.0, aerate to 7.4, rinse and repeat. CO2 outgasses at the fastest rate between pH 7.0 and 7.4. When you hit your TA target, stop forcing pH down. Should stabilize 7.8-8.

Free Chlorine: 1.5 ppm as of this morning (highest I've achieved for a morning reading yet)
  • PM is telling me to add over 2 gallons of 10% Liquid Chlorine every day
This is actually your biggest concern. You need to raise FC and maintain it in range for your CYA. Read this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Even though your pool water may be clear, do this test tonight and report results. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test



Based on my Pool Schooling, I'm focusing on bringing up the Calcium Hardness while keeping the Chlorine and pH on target. I've only achieved an FC reading above zero for a couple of days now. My plan is to bring TA and CYA down, but that seems to be a slow process.
Leave the Calcium Hardness alone. 250 is just fine... You should test your fill water for CH content. Post it up before you add more.

Great Job!
 
Last edited:
It is a process. The trick is to make as many small bubbles as possible. Aeration is the best way, but you can speed it up by lowering your pH to 7.0, aerate to 7.4, rinse and repeat. CO2 outgasses at the fastest rate between pH 7.0 and 7.4. When you hit your TA target, stop forcing pH down. Should stabilize 7.8-8.


This is actually your biggest concern. You need to raise FC and maintain it in range for your CYA. Read this...Link-->FC/CYA Levels

Even though your pool water may be clear, do this test tonight and report results. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test




Leave the Calcium Hardness alone. 250 is just fine... You should test your fill water for CH content. Post it up before you add more.

Great Job!
Thanks for the help! We had a storm last night, but I'll do this tonight and report back.
 
Thanks for the help! We had a storm last night, but I'll do this tonight and report back.
Well, I checked FC this morning and it's 7.5 ppm (no CC)! The storm yesterday resulted in far less direct sunlight on the pool, so I'm guessing that's a big part of it. I'll check it again this evening and tomorrow morning to confirm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PoolStored
My FC readings have been 7.5, 6 and 4.5 ppm for 3 consecutive days, so it looks like I've finally sanitized the pool! Hardness is now 425 and I'm working on reducing TA, which is now at 110 ppm after adding muriatic acid and aerating. I'll keep doing that.

Meanwhile, my supply water is 7.2 pH, 75 ppm CH and 290 ppm TA. I guess that this means I'll be doing the acid/aeration routine, while adding calcium as a regular regimen.
 
Meanwhile, my supply water is 7.2 pH, 75 ppm CH and 290 ppm TA. I guess that this means I'll be doing the acid/aeration routine, while adding calcium as a regular regimen.
You got it!!

Look At You Well Done GIF by CBC