HELP - Greenish colored water, semi-clear

By all means, add water. You certainly do not want to run your pump dry and risk damaging it. With our heat I'm having to add lots more water than normal, and I have not seen any disruption in my numbers.
 
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I only have enough powder left for one more test today. I ordered more and it will be in by 10pm. When is best time to test considering or should I yesterdays routine as my baseline. Today it looks about the same maybe only a tiny bit better.
If you plan to swim, then I would hold that last test until 30 mins prior to that. Test, add LC to reach no more than 16, then wait 30 mins before you swim. If you test and are at 16ppm then just go swim then add a gallon after you finish your swim to compensate for the bather load.

Prior to that, you could consider adding 1 gal of LC after 4 hrs during the day because you are burning FC with UV and algae. This is based on your previous testing. A gallon of LC adds about 4ppm Chlorine to your pool, so down to 12ppm, add back 4ppm gets you to 16ppm.
 
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If you plan to swim, then I would hold that last test until 30 mins prior to that. Test, add LC to reach no more than 16, then wait 30 mins before you swim. If you test and are at 16ppm then just go swim then add a gallon after you finish your swim to compensate for the bather load.

Prior to that, you could consider adding 1 gal of LC after 4 hrs during the day because you are burning FC with UV and algae. This is based on your previous testing. A gallon of LC adds about 4ppm Chlorine to your pool, so down to 12ppm, add back 4ppm gets you to 16ppm.
Okay got this all down, adding water to pool

Am adding 1 gal LC based on yesterday and will test in two hours. My delivery will be here this afternoon late.

Now the light. @Mdragger88 am posting pics of light so you can tell me what y’all think.

Again super nervous seeing as how it’s water and electrical but they make the youtube’s look so easy.

Could it really be a problem behind there if it’s a niche light? I mean I’ve had a crystal clear pool before most of the time of the 6 yeas I’ve lived here with a few exceptions.

I’ve done a lot of DIY just not pool related stuff (minus this forum that has been a huge blessing!)

Posting pics
 

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The 1 screw holds the complete light assembly to the wall. When that is removed, the complete light assembly will be able to pulled out. There is a long wire behind the light which allows you to set the light on the coping above. Those little holes in the rim allow water go behind the light, which keeps it cool when it turns on.
So as you pull it out, look to see if algae is on the back of the fixture on inside the niche where the wire is stored.
Don’t pull on the wire, it should be long enough to lift the light to the coping. Don’t turn on the light when it is out of water.

We have found in the past that algae can get back behind the light and although there is chlorine water there to kill the algae, it may need brushing to completely remove the algae.

EDIT - you can switch off the circuit breaker to the light before doing the above
 
Its as Easy as removing that phillips screw right there & doing as Herman said
IMG_7322.jpeg
You may wanna have the vac ready to suck up any funky stuff-
Btw, it probably doesn’t work because it’s can has gotten filled with water, the gasket needs to be replaced when replacing the bulb
 
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Todays numbers

Saturday evening tested in at 16ppm

Sunday morning
7:30 13.5ppm
10:00 17ppm
2:30 13ppm
added 1 gallon LC
9:30 16.5ppm

I left it alone and pics from this morning

I ordered a lightbulb and gasket and I think I am going to brave changing the light.
 

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Okay so today my pool if finally smelling like chlorine FC was 15 should I put any in? Or wait a couple hours and check again?

I am going to attempt my light today if I can make sure I know where the breaker is to get that flipped off
 
The chlorine smell is coming from CC, which is the result of your chlorine fighting something.

Stick to the 3 tests to stop the SLAM:
- Crystal clear water (your pics yesterday look close, but not sure about the deep end)
- CC < 1 (probably not if you smell it)
- Pass the OCLT by losing less than 1 FC overnight
 
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The chlorine smell is coming from CC, which is the result of your algae fighting something.

Stick to the 3 tests to stop the SLAM:
- Crystal clear water (your pics yesterday look close, but not sure about the deep end)
- CC < 1 (probably not if you smell it)
- Pass the OCLT by losing less than 1 FC overnight
I agree it’s getting close. I checked the CC today thinking the same thing and the 5 drops turned it grayish and 1 drop of 0871 got it crystal clear putting my CC at .5

I’ve brushed and running the vacuum
then I’ll prepare that change the light
 
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I agree it’s getting close. I checked the CC today thinking the same thing and the 5 drops turned it grayish and 1 drop of 0871 got it crystal clear putting my CC at .5

I’ve brushed and running the vacuum
then I’ll prepare that change the light
I would keep up the SLAM all day today - testing every 2-3 hrs and topping up to SLAM level. Then do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test tonight and post all results tomorrow morning.
 
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Monday along with pics and this mornings level (note I am including pictures when I turned the pump off because it was easier to see that it was more clear than I realized)

Monday
7:30am 15
10:30am 11
added 1 gallon LC
2:30pm 15
6:00pm 12
added 1 gallon LC

Tuesday morning
7:30am 12
added 1 gallon LC

I was unable to tackle the light. Additionally, I will be able to check today but probably on around lunch and late evening. Will keep the levels up to SLAM (16). Seems like I’m still losing a significant amount overnight. I brushed and am currently running the vacuum. When I brushed there was a very very tiny amount of algae dust almost so much so that you couldn’t even see it.

First three pics are with pump running and last two off
 

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Have to agree that you are losing 3-5ppm every 3-4 hrs during the daylight. Your overnight loss was about 4ppm in total.
So while your water is getting much better there is algae still lingering. It might be behind the light.
 
It looks like you lost roughly 4ppm in 13.5 hours. Around 3.5 of those were still daylight hours so it may not be as significant as you think but still obvious loss.
Clear water + overnight loss is often the result of hidden algae.
The light & the drain are both suspects here.
The drain cover also often has a void below it - basically like a bowl in the concrete with the drain pipe in the middle that can collect algae & funky stuff.
IMG_7344.png
 
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It looks like you lost roughly 4ppm in 13.5 hours. Around 3.5 of those were still daylight hours so it may not be as significant as you think but still obvious loss.
Clear water + overnight loss is often the result of hidden algae.
The light & the drain are both suspects here.
The drain cover also often has a void below it - basically like a bowl in the concrete with the drain pipe in the middle that can collect algae & funky stuff.
View attachment 522517
Okay so first I definitely need to consider the light replacement.

Can y’all direct me to checking and cleaning this bottom drain cover? I’ve seen a video showing scrubbing it with a chlorine tab but what the heck do I sue to keep myself down there long enough to do it without floating to top?
 
Okay so first I definitely need to consider the light replacement.

Can y’all direct me to checking and cleaning this bottom drain cover? I’ve seen a video showing scrubbing it with a chlorine tab but what the heck do I sue to keep myself down there long enough to do it without floating to top?
Ideally you would remove the cover - looks like 2 phillips screws to do so.
& scrub it (the inside of the cover & the void) then put it back.
To do this you need to turn the drain off & also use a weight belt or something similar to help keep you near the floor.
There should be someone with you at the pool while doing this incase you have any problems/need assistance.
If that seems like something you can’t do then alternatively you can use a piece of pvc pipe to direct liquid chlorine into the drain and brush the area well.
& You can also attempt to use the hose with a pressure nozzle and blast water into the cover at various angles to knock any funky stuff out. You will want the drain to be on for that so it gets sucked into the filter.
 
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Okay so results for Wednesday/Thursday are basically pretty much the same.

Both mornings (and today Friday) I’m starting at 12-13ppm add 1 gallon LC testing a few hrs later 16ppm and it’s holding until around 4-5pm. Drops to 12-13ppm add 1 gallon LC and it’s stable at 15ppm at evening time. I have left it at that.

I’ve not been able to clean the bottoms drain OR change the light out.

I know that needs doing, my question is … I am adding 2 gallons of liquid chlorine daily. At some point that will become unaffordable. Thoughts?
 
Hows your water looking and are you close to passing the OCLT? Your pictures from Tuesday seemed like you were close to being done.

If you are still losing a good amount of chlorine overnight, yet have a crystal clear pool, that points to hidden algae somewhere. I would get into your pool and scrub/inspect anywhere that normally doesnt get brushed (like the previously mentioned lights, drains, skimmers, weir doors, etc.).
 
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Hit the drain with the hose & then some liquid chlorine
Unscrew the light from its niche & lay it on the pool deck until you can deal with it. The cable should be long enough.
Be sure to tape off the switch & breaker so no one turns it on while it’s out.
Hard to tell from the pic if it’s a little far down to reach the screw from laying on the deck but maybe with long arms?
 

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