Learning the SWCG process, but a bit concerned.

summertimesadness

Gold Supporter
Aug 23, 2022
388
New Jersey
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Trying to learn the dance of what keeps the FC levels balanced with what SWCG % at 8 hr run speed.

All the test results are in my log sheet if you want to browse.

Today's results were;

FC 7.5
CC 0.0

Yesterday was FC of 8, and I pushed the SWCG a bit higher. I've been testing daily until I get comfortable with how it works, but I'm a bit confused than anything.

Pool is crystal clear, no signs of algae. FC never dropped below 5 since I slammed last, and the CC has never been above .5.

Advice?
 
Are you testing at the same time of day? Pump run time and UV loss can impact things pretty drastically depending on how you have things set up if you test in the AM one day and PM the next.
 
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Test at the same time each day.
Shoot for the high end of the FC target range for your CYA level - FC/CYA Levels. This will provide more of a FC buffer above minimum.
Don't micro manage the FC. The FC will fluctuate daily based on the weather and bather load. Just be sure it stays above minimum FC right before the pump/SWG starts up for the day (as this should be the lowest the FC gets in a 24 hour period). Of course, you will need to let the pump run for 30 minutes minimum prior to testing - so maybe add 0.5 to 1.0 ppm FC to that minimum to account for SWG generation for that 30 minute period. If FC is comfortably above minimum for that test, just stay on the higher end of the target range.
 
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With flying colors.
Very good. Then with no apparent chemistry issues, your SWG should be working well. The RJ-60 has a strong "advertised" FC output, but those can be a little misleading as they are based off of ideal/lab-tested scenarios. Your FC has probably been falling naturally following your recent SLAM, so now you are doing the SWG output-vs-pump run-time dance right? That's normal. As noted above, don't overthink it or you'll go nuts. Experiment with the pump time and output to see what works for you. Every pool is different. Always keep a jug of liquid chorine around if you need a quick FC spike. SWGs do much better maintaining FC than generating large amounts.
 
Test at the same time each day.
Shoot for the high end of the FC target range for your CYA level - FC/CYA Levels. This will provide more of a FC buffer above minimum.
Don't micro manage the FC. The FC will fluctuate daily based on the weather and bather load. Just be sure it stays above minimum FC right before the pump/SWG starts up for the day (as this should be the lowest the FC gets in a 24 hour period). Of course, you will need to let the pump run for 30 minutes minimum prior to testing - so maybe add 0.5 to 1.0 ppm FC to that minimum to account for SWG generation for that 30 minute period. If FC is comfortably above minimum for that test, just stay on the higher end of the target range.
The minimum for my pool is 3, ideal is 5 to 10.

I try and run hotter, so 8 to 9 to give myself some buffer is my goal.


The pool tests for the past few weeks.
 
Very good. Then with no apparent chemistry issues, your SWG should be working well. The RJ-60 has a strong "advertised" FC output, but those can be a little misleading as they are based off of ideal/lab-tested scenarios. Your FC has probably been falling naturally following your recent SLAM, so now you are doing the SWG output-vs-pump run-time dance right? That's normal. As noted above, don't overthink it or you'll go nuts. Experiment with the pump time and output to see what works for you. Every pool is different. Always keep a jug of liquid chorine around if you need a quick FC spike. SWGs do much better maintaining FC than generating large amounts.
Yup, my goal is to get the SWCG to a point where it may drop .5 here and there, but it should slowly come up as the SWCGs should be slowly adding to it over time, no?

Or is that not a good idea? BTW, not overthinking new things isn't in my nature. Lol
 
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but it should slowly come up as the SWCGs should be slowly adding to it over time, no?
It might. Your RJ-60 may handle a small increase for your size pool. My RJ-45 doesn't make a lot of gains in the summer. It's just too hot. But it does well staying where I want it when the chemistry is good. It's easier for me because I run my pump 24/7. Since you are on a shorter schedule, you have to figure out what works for your pool. I see you have it set to 40%, so if you aren't satisficed after a day or two, bump it up to 50% and go from there. At some point you might even lower it back down once the FC stabilizes.
 
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It might. Your RJ-60 may handle a small increase for your size pool. My RJ-45 doesn't make a lot of gains in the summer. It's just too hot. But it does well staying where I want it when the chemistry is good. It's easier for me because I run my pump 24/7. Since you are on a shorter schedule, you have to figure out what works for your pool. I see you have it set to 40%, so if you aren't satisficed after a day or two, bump it up to 50% and go from there. At some point you might even lower it back down once the FC stabilizes.
Sounds good. Dance away!

I see a lot of people are switching to the VS pumps. Is that the way to go now?
 
I see a lot of people are switching to the VS pumps. Is that the way to go now?
With today's new DOE regulations, yes. Of course electricity isn't getting any cheaper either, and VSPs do a pretty good job saving energy. Years ago they were very pricey, but there are many more makes/models of VSPs on the market to choose from which helps when shopping.
 
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With an SWG a VSP is ideal. If I did not have a VSP I would personally run the cell 100% and ramp run time up and down to increase electricity usage efficiency. I'm not personally seeing a large advantage yet for additional skimming/filtration time, so if I had a single speed I'd run the electrical usage numbers before swapping out a working pump for a VSP.

At 3450 RPMs my pump uses ~2500 watts, 1400 RPMs my pump uses ~200 watts.
 
With an SWG a VSP is ideal. If I did not have a VSP I would personally run the cell 100% and ramp run time up and down to increase electricity usage efficiency. I'm not personally seeing a large advantage yet for additional skimming/filtration time, so if I had a single speed I'd run the electrical usage numbers before swapping out a working pump for a VSP.

At 3450 RPMs my pump uses ~2500 watts, 1400 RPMs my pump uses ~200 watts.
The pump i have is about 5 to 7 years old. It's already sprung a leak I had to fix, and who knows what it'll have by the end of the season. I'm not swapping just to swap, but if the time comes around the VSP might be my choice.
 
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The pump i have is about 5 to 7 years old. It's already sprung a leak I had to fix, and who knows what it'll have my the end of the season. I'm not swapping just to swap, but if the time comes around the VSP might be my choice.
Good call. I can't imagine the upgrade to VSP when needed would be much more expensive and it would probably pay for itself. Also having control over different speeds opens up a lot of options for SWG run time, Heater, Cleaner/Skimming, etc. It would be worth it to me even if the cost between equipment/usage was flat.
 
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This 3HP $519 pump only has to last 1/3 as long as the flagship brands and it will likely last much longer than that.

It's possible to be even cheaper with a power company rebate.

It will pay for itself in energy savings very quickly, even with short NJ seasons. Then it will pay for itself again, and a likely a 3rd time after that. It's a no brainer.
 
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Tested it this morning about 35 to 40 minutes after the pump turned on.

FC 8.0
CC 0

Noticed what I thought was algae at the bottom... when I 'broomed it', it just resettled in a pile (assuming dirt). I brushed all the walls with 0 puff clouds, so it's probably the dirt I see in the basket after the pool robot does its thing. I got a bit nervous.

I may do an overnight test this weekend to be sure. I hope none of this is algae related. :oops:
 
So, tested this AM, 8 FC with 0 CC. Whew.

Something I did notice tho with the smart stir.

I use the light feature when I do the test. However, when I turned it off and went back to the non light stir, it showed a light pink still. Where as with the light, it did not.. meaning my FC could have been 8.5, not 8.0 as I would have added another drop.

What's the concensus on using the smart stir features?
 
So, tested this AM, 8 FC with 0 CC. Whew.

Something I did notice tho with the smart stir.

I use the light feature when I do the test. However, when I turned it off and went back to the non light stir, it showed a light pink still. Where as with the light, it did not.. meaning my FC could have been 8.5, not 8.0 as I would have added another drop.

What's the concensus on using the smart stir features?
Without running 24/7, your SWCG variation is normal. demand fluctuates. You are fine.

Use the smart stir. The sample rapidly turning pink after test is done is normal. Ignore it. when the sample goes clear with a drop, in smart stir, with light, you are done. If you are consistent with the way you test, you are good. when you mix techniques, no bueno
 
Without running 24/7, your SWCG variation is normal. demand fluctuates. You are fine.

Use the smart stir. The sample rapidly turning pink after test is done is normal. Ignore it. when the sample goes clear with a drop, in smart stir, with light, you are done. If you are consistent with the way you test, you are good. when you mix techniques, no bueno
I'll use the light all the time from now on, thanks.
 
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