INEXPERIENCED OB Steel wall vinyl liner inground pool under construction in north texas

I think you really only need sono tubes to support your concrete/paver/whatever deck if you don't use proper backfill or are worried about sandy/loose soil and settling. I did not use sono tubes on my build, and I don't think most people do. I used a combination of 57 stone and crushed 304? aggregate for backfill.
ahhhhh ok....... I putting 57 stone only..... is that ok???
 
for the automation and SWG I think I am going to order the Hayward Aquaplus.......
 
Ok, I think I finally found a place that has the vermiculite….. (pool Crete is VERY expensive AND they want and additional $500-$1000 to deliver it 😡)…. So, 2 types say not for pools so those are out, but of the other 2 which is better???? I assume that the finer the better right???? ...................OR.... Would I be ok using sand and concrete (that would be cheaper!!!!!)
 

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Sorry, I used Pool Krete. YES, IT IS EXPENSIVE! It's hard to say by these pictures, but these seem very coarse compared to Pool Krete.
 
pool crete is a mix of portland cement, sand & vermiculite. I would call a pool place. they can direct you in what to use. are you diying this part? Its the general concensus that subbing that part out is worth the $$.
 
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pool crete is a mix of portland cement, sand & vermiculite. I would call a pool place. they can direct you in what to use. are you diying this part? Its the general concensus that subbing that part out is worth the $$.
From the beginning, my problem has been that there are no builders familiar with inground vinyl pool on this area and pool "professional" don't know much...... BUT I know that concrete is definitely way above my skill set............ my boss is going to hook me up with a "plaster guy", which he says should be able to handle doing the floor........ I am going to reach out to the one local company that handle vinyl liner pool and see if they have access to actual poolcrete.... if not I will order the vermiculite and the cement separately and get the guys to mix it...
 
Ok, I think I finally found a place that has the vermiculite….. (pool Crete is VERY expensive AND they want and additional $500-$1000 to deliver it 😡)…. So, 2 types say not for pools so those are out, but of the other 2 which is better???? I assume that the finer the better right???? ...................OR.... Would I be ok using sand and concrete (that would be cheaper!!!!!)
Does anyone knows which vermiculite I should order???
 
I don't know, but would think if fine provides a smooth finish, super fine should provide an even smoother finish. 🤷‍♂️ @Newdude did you do a concrete floor like your walls or vermiculite/poolkrete floor?
 

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@Newdude did you do a concrete floor like your walls or vermiculite/poolkrete floor?
D) None of the above

Sand is commonly used here. Which is kinda funny because they dug out a ton of sand, to put different sand back.

I'm sorry I don't know, Caro. I'm SURE rooting for you though, if it helps. 🙂
 
Well, for better or for worse I made a decision on SWG and automation 🙂. I went with the aqua plus…….. anyone knows if there are any other parts that I need to order for it????
 

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Well, for better or for worse I made a decision on SWG and automation 🙂. I went with the aqua plus…….. anyone knows if there are any other parts that I need to order for it????
I believe its the whole kit and caboodle so you should be good 👍🏻
 
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I am VERY confuse.... please help!!! what is the correct sequence????...... I read to the instruction book and it tells me that the installation sequence is:

-concrete collar, then pool floor, then liner, then backfill overdig (while filling up the pool), and then coping and/or deck....

but when you see they video in their website the sequence is:

-concrete collar, then backfill overdig, then coping and/or deck, then pool floor and then liner........,


what is the correct sequence????? TIA
 
I am VERY confuse.... please help!!! what is the correct sequence????...... I read to the instruction book and it tells me that the installation sequence is:

-concrete collar, then pool floor, then liner, then backfill overdig (while filling up the pool), and then coping and/or deck....

but when you see they video in their website the sequence is:

-concrete collar, then backfill overdig, then coping and/or deck, then pool floor and then liner........,


what is the correct sequence????? TIA
You're doing great, just take a deep breath. There's not a required order. You get it done in the order you need to get it done, just so long as you don't cover up something you haven't yet done. In you first example, you clearly can't put the liner in before the coping (where's the liner track?).

This was the order for my pool build (which was dictated by Ohio's October weather and availability of workers): concrete collar, floor, coping, liner, half water, plumbing/conduit, full water, backfill, deck. Clearly, this order requires you to be confident in you concrete collar and wall setup.
 
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I need some advice..... as I am leveling the panels (using bricks and roof shingles as the manufacturers recommend), I find myself with some areas that are 2-3 inches above others..... my questions is, is it better for me to use the excavated dirt (which I have about 30 tons of it :confused:), the bring the ground up to the bottom of the panels again, and then put the 2"of the vermiculate-concrete mix, or should I put 4" of the vermiculate-concrete mix????? thank you in advance
 

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I need some advice..... as I am leveling the panels (using bricks and roof shingles as the manufacturers recommend), I find myself with some areas that are 2-3 inches above others..... my questions is, is it better for me to use the excavated dirt (which I have about 30 tons of it :confused:), the bring the ground up to the bottom of the panels again, and then put the 2"of the vermiculate-concrete mix, or should I put 4" of the vermiculate-concrete mix????? thank you in advance
I'm not sure if there's a perfect answer. You only need to eliminate/fill enough space so that when you pour the concrete collar that the concrete all doesn't start spilling into the pool underneath the panels. The collar is going to hold it in place, so depending how large your voids are underneath the panels, you might be able to just use some of the excavated dirt or 57 stone (or whatever you're using for base/backfill). The key will be having boards or some kind of support when you pour the collar so it doesn't push everything out from underneath the pool and then have your concrete flowing into your pool floor. Learn on my build that if the gaps are big enough the concrete just flows right underneath the panels and into the pool floor 🤷‍♂️
 
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I'm not sure if there's a perfect answer. You only need to eliminate/fill enough space so that when you pour the concrete collar that the concrete all doesn't start spilling into the pool underneath the panels. The collar is going to hold it in place, so depending how large your voids are underneath the panels, you might be able to just use some of the excavated dirt or 57 stone (or whatever you're using for base/backfill). The key will be having boards or some kind of support when you pour the collar so it doesn't push everything out from underneath the pool and then have your concrete flowing into your pool floor. Learn on my build that if the gaps are big enough the concrete just flows right underneath the panels and into the pool floor 🤷‍♂️
This is what I was talking about yesterday.... the yellow string shows the "finish" Hight..... as you can see, in some areas (the shallow end) I have as much as 5" to fill.......... I am not worry about the actual panel, as I am going to put paver all around so all the panels are sitting on something......... what I am trying to figure out is what is the best way to back fill to the finish level.....I have though to maybe put back to of the dirt that I took out, and put the 2" vermiculite/concrete mix after that,, or maybe puring regular concrete first and then the 2" vermiculite/concrete mix......... I also though this morning of maybe dumping gravel there and then the 2" vermiculite/concrete mix as it is very muddy....... any advice???

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This is what I was talking about yesterday.... the yellow string shows the "finish" Hight..... as you can see, in some areas (the shallow end) I have as much as 5" to fill.......... I am not worry about the actual panel, as I am going to put paver all around so all the panels are sitting on something......... what I am trying to figure out is what is the best way to back fill to the finish level.....I have though to maybe put back to of the dirt that I took out, and put the 2" vermiculite/concrete mix after that,, or maybe puring regular concrete first and then the 2" vermiculite/concrete mix......... I also though this morning of maybe dumping gravel there and then the 2" vermiculite/concrete mix as it is very muddy....... any advice???

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Got it, so you need to bring the whole floor up in the shallow end, or at least a large portion of it and not just by the walls. Whatever you use, you need to ensure it's compacted properly. If you do not, you'll inevitably have some settling which you'll notice dimples as you're walking on the liner or with the lights on at night. I had some settling in my floor because we had to rush to get it done due to labor availability, rain/flooding, and winter approaching. 57 stone gravel or 304 crushed aggregate would be your best options. That'll allow you to raise the floor to where you can install the 2" of vermiculite as well as make it easier to work on while wet. I would not pour concrete to raise the floor, and also focus on the walls/collar more so before perfecting the backfill for your floor.
 

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