Has anyone installed a heater themselves?
Done the plumbing and such?
Done the plumbing and such?
Dallas TX - Heater - Gas or Electric
- Thread starter lardo5150
- Start date
The plumbing is easy as it is 2 union connections. I had to have a plumber extend my gas line and connect the gas line per code.
depending on what I decide, I may start a new thread and make this a project, hoping I could get some help from all of you 
There are three things that I have never done:
1. install the heater and reconfigure the plumbing
2. Hook up hte heater to the main board
3. gas line (will need a plumber).
This is my setup below.
Ignore the mess I have been cleaning/re-modeling a bit in the back before the season.
The shed on the right can be moved as there is a ton of extra pad there, I could put the heater there.
How would you hook it up though with plumbing? Would I need to buy any extra valves or anything?
There are three things that I have never done:
1. install the heater and reconfigure the plumbing
2. Hook up hte heater to the main board
3. gas line (will need a plumber).
This is my setup below.
Ignore the mess I have been cleaning/re-modeling a bit in the back before the season.
The shed on the right can be moved as there is a ton of extra pad there, I could put the heater there.
How would you hook it up though with plumbing? Would I need to buy any extra valves or anything?
Installing my heater was the first major pool/plumbing job I ever did. Old owners ripped the rotted Jandy/Laars heater out and looped the plumbing around. I had to rebuild a lot of it to connect up to the heater. It wasn't that bad, but as a total PVC noob it wasn't fun - lost an expensive new Jandy valve in the process, and there was a lot of swearing going on for two days. It would go much, much faster now. Wiring the electric and getting the fireman's switch connected was as piece of cake.
Fortunately I already had the gas line run from the previous install, but I did have to plumb the gas after the valve to the heater. First time for that too, that way easier for me than getting PVC to line up and be the right length.
Call Atmos or whoever your gas provider is and make sure your meter can support the heater. Mine was upgraded when the pool was originally installed. The default small meter they install for houses will not cut it.
I would just put the heater where the storage box currently is. Be sure to add a Jandy valve somewhere in between the filter and the heater inlet so you can bypass it when you need to. Put a check valve after the heater.
- Apr 10, 2018
- 6,543
- Pool Size
- 18375
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Big job...good luck!
Water should go from pump to filter to heater. It may make more sense to move the filter to the right of pump and put the heater where the filter is now. I think it would be easier to connect the heater to the returns.
Water should go from pump to filter to heater. It may make more sense to move the filter to the right of pump and put the heater where the filter is now. I think it would be easier to connect the heater to the returns.
Ahultin
Bronze Supporter
- Aug 19, 2021
- 1,613
- Pool Size
- 17700
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Definitely this route! Less pipe, less fittings, only one cross over the pump and likely makes the gas run easier at the end of the pad.
Hey all, quick update.
I have gotten a few quotes on the heater.
So far around 11k to 12k seems to be my cost. The big problem is I have to have a line ran from the gas meter and this seems to be eating up my cost.
So I have been running through some ideas, like digging the trench myself, etc....but I was thinking of a heat pump...
If I sprung for a heat pump, then to extend my season, kick it on a week or two before I know I want to start swimming and shut down around November.
16k gallon pool.
What do you think the cost would be compared to gas? Would I see a massive rise in the bill or would it not be that significant?
Or am I still better off with the gas cost?
I have gotten a few quotes on the heater.
So far around 11k to 12k seems to be my cost. The big problem is I have to have a line ran from the gas meter and this seems to be eating up my cost.
So I have been running through some ideas, like digging the trench myself, etc....but I was thinking of a heat pump...
If I sprung for a heat pump, then to extend my season, kick it on a week or two before I know I want to start swimming and shut down around November.
16k gallon pool.
What do you think the cost would be compared to gas? Would I see a massive rise in the bill or would it not be that significant?
Or am I still better off with the gas cost?
Ahultin
Bronze Supporter
- Aug 19, 2021
- 1,613
- Pool Size
- 17700
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
What size electrical service do you have to the pad? if you dont have @100 amp service to your pool panel , the Heat pump will likely need at least a dedicated 60amp breaker which is a 3#4 awg wire to the main panel. Depending on the distance this may cost as much as the gas line.
)The Pentair website has a cost comparison calculator in the pool heater section for gas versus heat pump. Try to use your local data for utility costs.
HP cost calcs are tricky. Figure out the % of added surcharges on your bill. My fees, power and delivery surcharges and taxes make up close to half of my bill, for example.
Then use the KW fee from the highest tier on your bill, and double (?) It to include the fees / surcharges / taxes. The HP will be in addition to the electricity you're already using and will not benefit from the lower brakets. It might even push you into the next tier where you'll pay more in usage and fees.
Then use the KW fee from the highest tier on your bill, and double (?) It to include the fees / surcharges / taxes. The HP will be in addition to the electricity you're already using and will not benefit from the lower brakets. It might even push you into the next tier where you'll pay more in usage and fees.
Not really understanding the pentair calculator.
It is showing me "savings", but I would like to get an idea on what it would COST to run, from March till maybe middle of November.
Any other calculators out there?
The reason why I am chasing this down is the first company to give me a quote ($12,800), said that Heat Pumps are insanely expensive to run. he told me a story of a lady insisting they install one, she turned it on, and her electric bill was an extra 500 bucks.
It is showing me "savings", but I would like to get an idea on what it would COST to run, from March till maybe middle of November.
Any other calculators out there?
The reason why I am chasing this down is the first company to give me a quote ($12,800), said that Heat Pumps are insanely expensive to run. he told me a story of a lady insisting they install one, she turned it on, and her electric bill was an extra 500 bucks.
Mine was 800 for the cold month and 600 for the cool month before getting a solar cover which cut the bill in half.
HPs efficiency rely on the weather to cooperate. There are too many variables season to season. Find a friend with one and ask for their average bill. They'll know off the top of their head. Lol.
I’m in NC so different climate. I have an electric meter dedicated to my pool and my power bill is usually $200 more in the summer months with the heat pump running to maintain temp. The shoulder months can be up to $500 more depending on weather.
using Pentair as an example, they have various models for their heat pump.
My question is, how do you know which model to get?
There is 70 all the way up to 140.
Any advantages/disadvantages in getting the 140 for a 16K gallon pool in Dallas?
They do have a quiet model, but it is only in the 120 version.
My question is, how do you know which model to get?
There is 70 all the way up to 140.
Any advantages/disadvantages in getting the 140 for a 16K gallon pool in Dallas?
They do have a quiet model, but it is only in the 120 version.
- May 23, 2015
- 25,786
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
BTU size simply controls how long it will take to heat the pool. The bigger the unit, the faster the heat up time.
Gas is less than $2/mcf and not looking like it’s going much higher in foreseeable future. Go Gas. If you lived in Austin you would probably go “Green” Electric and pay significantly more to heat.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 17,074
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
I live in Ohio. Gas goes on 83 degrees May 15 and goes off October 1. $1300 in gas for the season.
Mods, if this needs moved to my other thread, not a problem.
Will have a heat pump installed, but to save money I will do my own electric.
No, I am not an electrician, but have been doing DIY stuff forever, along with basic electrical (Hooked up my own mini split).
I have all Jandy equipment, but I think we are looking at a Pentair UltraTemp 140. I can't find what it exactly needs. Was hoping I could use this thread to ask some questions on the wiring.
I was going to add a 50 amp breaker to my main panel in the house and run that connection to the pad. About 50 ft. So the HP will be on its own circuit.
Going to grab this:
I can't find if the HP requires a green neutral or not, but I am assuming since this is a 50 amp breaker with 2 poles, i will for sure need the red/black/white cable, but cant find if I need ground.
Will this go to a quick disconnect box? Is there a requirement for what this runs to first at the pad, before getting connected to the HP? I know when I did my 220 for the min split in the garage, a requirement was to have a quick disconnect outside.
Would love some help with this one.
Will have a heat pump installed, but to save money I will do my own electric.
No, I am not an electrician, but have been doing DIY stuff forever, along with basic electrical (Hooked up my own mini split).
I have all Jandy equipment, but I think we are looking at a Pentair UltraTemp 140. I can't find what it exactly needs. Was hoping I could use this thread to ask some questions on the wiring.
I was going to add a 50 amp breaker to my main panel in the house and run that connection to the pad. About 50 ft. So the HP will be on its own circuit.
Going to grab this:
Square D Homeline 50 Amp 2-Pole Circuit Breaker(HOM250CP) HOM250CP - The Home Depot
The Square D by Schneider Electric Homeline 50 Amp Two-Pole Circuit Breaker is used for overload and short-circuit protection of your electrical system. This breaker is compatible with Homeline load centers
www.homedepot.com
I can't find if the HP requires a green neutral or not, but I am assuming since this is a 50 amp breaker with 2 poles, i will for sure need the red/black/white cable, but cant find if I need ground.
Will this go to a quick disconnect box? Is there a requirement for what this runs to first at the pad, before getting connected to the HP? I know when I did my 220 for the min split in the garage, a requirement was to have a quick disconnect outside.
Would love some help with this one.
shaded_water01
Gold Supporter
I have 15,000 gal, and I'm in The Woodlands/Houston TX, I have the Pentair 120Q. I am strategic in my heating. I only do it when the weather aligns. Roughly costs me an added $20-30 per weekend that I choose to heat. I heat starting on Thursday if the weather looks good. I heat early during and throughout the day. The higher the humidity the more latent heat you can steal from the air. This season I had a weekend in February that worked out, but I haven't had an opportune week since then. Last year, I was able to heat half of the weekends in March and April. I don't hassle with a solar cover, only do the liquid solar cover, it helps. Heating was typically from 67-70 deg F to 85-88 deg F.